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Kore Pace System

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Old 02-03-2005, 02:57 PM
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Kore Pace System

Any feedback from someone who has this system? I have the OEM yellow Bilstein shocks. I find them very little, if any, better than stock. I have read a few good reports on Bilstein 5100 shocks. Does Ken custom valve the 5100s?

I have followed the T-rex system since day one. I’m sure it’s great, just too much money for as little as I go off road. The Pace System is within my budget.

Thanks, Chuck
Old 02-03-2005, 06:39 PM
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I put the pace system on about 6 weeks ago. Install wasn't to bad with the correct tools. The ride is much better and lifted the front about 2 inches. There's enough difference in the ride that you can feel a difference between the pace front and stock rear. I'll do the rear sometime this summer to balence it out. I don't think they revalve the shocks.
Old 02-03-2005, 10:31 PM
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5100's can't be re-valved. The Bilstein 7100 and Fox shocks can be valved, but you need to have them set up by someone who knows what they're doing. Valving needs to be matched to several parameters like spring rate, weight, intended use, etc.

The Bilstein 7100 is about $180 per shock, valving will cost $25-35 per shock. The Fox is actually a better shock (IMO), 2" body will run you pretty much the same price. If you're going to beat the truck at all, I'd go with the Fox 2.5" body shock, but they run roughly $275 a pop plus valving.

You can get the 5100 with the stock mounts, but the 7100 and Fox shocks are eye to eye mounting, so you will need a custom upper shock tower for the fronts. Thurenfab will have shock towers in the next couple weeks for about $150. They're not as pretty as the KORE towers, but they'll work just as well and cost a helluva lot less.

Check out DT Profab....http://www.dtprofab.com/SUPER-I.htm
I should have the first "production" set of these arms by this weekend. David is putting together a whole system with arms, springs, track bar and Bilstein 5100 shocks that should work as well as the T-Rex/KORE pace system, for about $500 less. David Turbyfill of DT Profab is a professional fabricator and also races a trophy truck. He knows his stuff.

I did some serious $$ on my front end...Thurenfab track bar and cross over steering, DT arms, and softer custom coils. Once Don Thuren finishes the shock towers, I'll be mounting 2.5" Fox shocks.

When I'm finished, I'll have a system way beefier than the KORE system with twice as much travel and 4" more lift for about $700 less than the KORE full race system.

DT also has some very nice control arms for stock height truck....if you're not looking for lift, the DT control arms and 5100's would make a very durable suspension with excellent ride quality.

PM me if you need any more info......
Old 02-06-2005, 05:52 PM
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If Ken's claims that his springs will cure the poor ride issues. Then his custom springs and 5100 shocks should work fine on the street. I can't see why for street use you need the Bilstein 7100.
Old 02-06-2005, 06:22 PM
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Originally posted by Cowhand
5100's can't be re-valved. The Bilstein 7100 and Fox shocks can be valved, but you need to have them set up by someone who knows what they're doing. Valving needs to be matched to several parameters like spring rate, weight, intended use, etc.

The Bilstein 7100 is about $180 per shock, valving will cost $25-35 per shock. The Fox is actually a better shock (IMO), 2" body will run you pretty much the same price. If you're going to beat the truck at all, I'd go with the Fox 2.5" body shock, but they run roughly $275 a pop plus valving.

You can get the 5100 with the stock mounts, but the 7100 and Fox shocks are eye to eye mounting, so you will need a custom upper shock tower for the fronts. Thurenfab will have shock towers in the next couple weeks for about $150. They're not as pretty as the KORE towers, but they'll work just as well and cost a helluva lot less.

Check out DT Profab....http://www.dtprofab.com/SUPER-I.htm
I should have the first "production" set of these arms by this weekend. David is putting together a whole system with arms, springs, track bar and Bilstein 5100 shocks that should work as well as the T-Rex/KORE pace system, for about $500 less. David Turbyfill of DT Profab is a professional fabricator and also races a trophy truck. He knows his stuff.

I did some serious $$ on my front end...Thurenfab track bar and cross over steering, DT arms, and softer custom coils. Once Don Thuren finishes the shock towers, I'll be mounting 2.5" Fox shocks.

When I'm finished, I'll have a system way beefier than the KORE system with twice as much travel and 4" more lift for about $700 less than the KORE full race system.

DT also has some very nice control arms for stock height truck....if you're not looking for lift, the DT control arms and 5100's would make a very durable suspension with excellent ride quality.

PM me if you need any more info......
Someboys been doing his homework....

Cowhand, is there any reason you passed on the Kelderman air ride??
Old 02-06-2005, 07:54 PM
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DE, If you only knew......

I passed on the kelderman because 1), it might work fine but I think it still looks kinda cheesy, like something someone fabricated in their garage, and 2) it didn't address the basic issue I had with my SJ set up, which was not being able to keep the front end aligned.


Originally posted by Dr.Kayak
If Ken's claims that his springs will cure the poor ride issues. Then his custom springs and 5100 shocks should work fine on the street. I can't see why for street use you need the Bilstein 7100.
Read the post again, I never said you needed a 7100 or better for street use. I said the 5100 can't be revalved. 5100's work excellent on the street and for mild off road use. I would be shocked roght down to my socks if Kent had some kind of proprietary valving on his 5100's, they're an off the shelf shock. $300 a set.

I've talked to Kent a few times, and he knows his stuff. He's got some nice goodies, and they work very well, just a little overpriced IMO.
Old 02-06-2005, 08:04 PM
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Originally posted by Cowhand
DE, If you only knew......

I passed on the kelderman because 1), it might work fine but I think it still looks kinda cheesy, like something someone fabricated in their garage, and 2) it didn't address the basic issue I had with my SJ set up, which was not being able to keep the front end aligned.


Ya just need some smaller meats.... - just kidding they look great...

Thanks....I appreciate the info. a lot.
Old 02-11-2005, 07:19 PM
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Originally posted by Cowhand
5100's can't be re-valved. The Bilstein 7100 and Fox shocks can be valved, but you need to When I'm finished, I'll have a system way beefier than the KORE system with twice as much travel and 4" more lift for about $700 less than the KORE full race system.

That is a very interesting statement. I am currently running some Kore stuff on my truck. I know for a fact tha Bilstien does revalve the 5100's for Kore. They are a custom valve pack different than what is available off the shelf. As for the twice as much travel? I would love to ride in your truck when you have a full 20 inches of travel available. That is amazing. And for less money. I am seriously interested. Come on out for a steak and a hot lap. I am only an hour away. Sounds like fun to me....!!
Thanks,

Greg
Old 02-12-2005, 11:29 AM
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I found a post on TDR that says the KORE Pace system uses off the shelf 5100 #6646 for the front. The rear 5100 are custom valved by Bilstein.

Greg: Do you have any experence with the 5100 setup? Any idea how it handles freeway expansion joints compared to the 7100 setup?

Thanks,

Chuck
Old 02-12-2005, 03:14 PM
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Dr K,
Your right about the fronts being an off the shelf shock. I didn't state that right> Sorry about that. As for the ride of the Pace system:
The Kore Pace system used the same springs as the Chase and Race systems. The springs are the secret to Kore's success in prepping our trucks for off road. Even the pace system all but eliminates the problem caused by the expansion joint bounce that a HD pickup encounters. Washboard roads are eaten up like no other. The custom Kore coils are great for this. They have been designed with the driver in mind. Not just for lifting a truck like the Red springs are. Kore springs are long travel. They provide up to 10 inches of travel where as the Red springs only offer 6 inches of travel. Just look at the red kits with the 6inch extended bumpstops. With a six inch bumpstop travel is limited to 4 inches. You truck will ride better with stock springs in my opinion. Kore springs keep you tires and wheels in a constant contact with good ol terra firma. The Bilstien shocks that Kore uses dampen the movement of the spring. That is why we don't expierence the bounce in the rear end anymore after the Mini Leaf and Bilstien installation. There is a difference between companies and suspension. I would suggest you try and find a couple of trucks equiped with different stuff and let the suspension do the talking. I feel that the Kore suspension will speak much clearer to those of us who expect the best from our trucks. We spend upwards of $40K on our trucks. The suspension is the most important part of our comfort. We love to upgrade our power, trannies( that is a completly different thread) and now suspension. We spend top dollar on everything that we are passionate about with these trucks. Why skimp and put on a $100 Dollar spacer or $200 dollar spring and suffer for years. The Kore Pace system was designed for your truck. Not a Ford or Chevy and then adapted. It is guaranteed for the life of the truck. Lifetime guarantee. Why not go for the best and be happy.

Enjoy,
Greg
Old 02-17-2005, 04:53 PM
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Greg: Thanks for the info. Ordered my system yesterday. I have no doubt the KORE front coils will make a huge difference. I am just a little unsure the "mini-pack" leafs are worth the cost and effort to install. I have watched several trucks on the freeway and just don't see the rear leafs flexing enough that the factory overloads are coming into play. Do the "mini-packs have enough camber that they are the first to flex when the truck is empty?
Old 02-17-2005, 05:54 PM
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Originally posted by Dr.Kayak
I am just a little unsure the "mini-pack" leafs are worth the cost and effort to install. I have watched seveal trucks on the freeway and just don't see the rear leafs flexing enough that the factory overloads are coming into play. Do the "mini-packs have enough camber that they are the first to flex when the truck is empty?
Dr. Kayak,

The problem is that the rear leafs don't flex enough over the expansion joints, that's why certain leafs are remove and replaced with the mini-packs-

From KORE's website:
"By removing certain leafs from the OE leaf packs and installing our mini-paks, one can custom tune one's suspension to a particular terrain, towing requirement and driving style, thereby attaining the very best ride possible – all while maintaining the strength and reliability of the stock leaf packs."

With the camper in the back and your intended use, the mini packs may not be worth the trouble.

Greg,

OK, I'm shocked right down to my socks. Apparently Kent has set something up with Bilstien to have shocks valved to his spec. Pretty cool. Am I correct in stating that the valving can't be changed after the shock is initially assembled at the factory?

As for travel, maybe twice as much was a little overstated, I'll be limited to 14" or so, basically whatever I can get out of a 16" travel shock. I'm running 6" coils made by the same guy that does Kent's, so there's some more compression travel right there. Still trying to figure out what to do with the rears.....probably gonna go with a re-worked spring pack and shackle flip so I can ditch the rear block.

Right now I have about $2300 into it, including control arms, custom coils, Fox 2.5 shocks, and shock towers. Still got some money to play with for the rear....

I'm not by any means slamming Kent's stuff, it's a great system and it's proven. Kent has to make a return on his costs and R&D. It's just way too pricey for a lot of us, and it's set up to be a one trick pony. If I wanted to blast across the desert at 70MPH, I'd have kept my 7S Toyota. I'm not looking to run Baja in a 7000 lb truck with power everything. If I can do 40-50 MPH on 1' washboard I'll be thrilled, but I want it to work well on mountain trails as well. Articulation means almost as much as travel to me. Like a lot of folks, I'm not looking for a system that will work optimally in one type of terrain, I'm looking for something that will work exceptionally well in a wide variety of conditions.

As for the hot lap......Hodge Road, first round of cool beverages is on me. If you're down south....Ocotillo or Borrego?
Old 02-18-2005, 01:50 AM
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Well now,
As for the hot lap, I am out here in the good ol 29 Stumps. Hodge road or Ocotillo would be fine. You are right that the Shocks are not valved at KORE. The 5100 series comes with a custom configuration in the rear. The fronts are off the shelf bilstien stuff. As for the coils, I would imagine anyone could make you a coil. I wonder if it is the same as the kore stuff. As for blasting around at 80? Bring out that Toy7s. I bet we can give her a run for her money!!! I am always up for a challenge. To answer a final question, the Kore stuff works great in the slow and twisty stuff too. I have 10 inches of travel up front and close to 14 in the rear. That lets Big Red twist up pretty good. I even have some proof!!! Nice big dents in the cab where the bed hits it in the twisty stuff. The springs I have on the rear of my truck are some custom race springs that we are testing. If you even put them on your truck you would be well over the $3500 KORE system. Not to mention the custom coils up front The price for them would make most people sick. And yes, Kroeker has an in with the Bilstien company. I think the shocks on my truck might just be a black color? Any way, good luck with the lift/suspension. I truly do hope it works for you. I enjoy the heck out of mine. I just launched my truck on the way home from work. Yes I know, it is dark out, I am by myself, and no one knew where I was. It was a blast anyways......

Dr K,
The Mini pack is the secret to the whole deal in the rear. The heavy overload leafs come into play way before you ever hit the actuators on the frame. That is where the big rear end bounce comes into play. I would highly recommend the MIni's for any type of driving. The rear spring on our trucks was invented in 1942 with the Power Wagon. 1" thick springs do not work!!!! Mini pack has four custom shaped springs, designed to work with your truck, in extreme conditions. You truly cannot reap the benifits of a well designed system with only half a system. I am sure you will enjoy it either way. Good luck!!!!!

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Old 02-18-2005, 12:04 PM
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Greg,

Wish I still had the Toy. Sold it to buy the Dodge. Did you have Scott over at a certain spring shop in Orange County do the rear springs? If so, I know what you mean about going over the $3500 price tag.

Glad to hear Kent's stuff works good in the slow stuff, I wasn't sure how well it would work with the stiffer coil. IIRC, he spec's a thicker wire in the coils...no problems with coil bind at full compression? I take it he's using a higher rate spring and softer compression/harder rebound valving?

I'm shooting for ~ 14" of travel with the 37's I'm currently running. With the track bar I have, I'm hoping that I'll be pretty close to dead on the bump stops at full compression. ....don't particularly want to go any higher ride height wise, and I'm not ready to take a sawzall to the fenders yet.

I'm kinda test mulin' these arms, so we'll se what happens with 'em. Theoretically, everything should work very well together. I plan on making some trips to Hungry Valley, Hodge and Glamis to try everthing out.

How's Kent coming with his control arms? I understand he fishbowled the billet arms because of cost, but they sure were pretty....
Old 02-18-2005, 01:12 PM
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What I was implying with the deavers, is that you were already at $2300 and a set of these would put you over the $3500. The coils on my truck were made special for the race truck. Only 4 coils like this in the USA. Ad removed site violation It is truly beyond belief. The Kore coils do not bind upon full compression. They are way beyond my knowledge or capability of explaining. With the 37's I only rub the stock control arms. I do hit the inside front of the rear fenders upon full compression due to custom bumpstop mounting.

Greg
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Do you have a real name cowhand?


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