wcbcruzer

Well, finally got around to installing my fuel pressure gauge. Don't wanna go through that again. I got diesel in my driveway, all over my hands, and a little bit in the cab from priming the line. It was especially a b**ch to plumb this thick ss braided hose through the chassis and through the dash up to the triple pod pillar. Especially with that black plastic junk (made for electrical wires) that I put around the hose to keep the hose from sawing through stuff over time. That part took longer than anything else! I'm sure glad I got 6 feet of it though, otherwise it wouldn't have reached. I ended up putting the fuel pressure gauge in the first hole on the pillar.

Oh, and I got diesel inside my gauge. When I primed it, diesel shot into the holes of the gauge. Now it's gonna take a while for it to dry... I didn't want to plug in the light into the back of the gauge either, till the diesel dries. I used a needle valve, I hope the seals inside don't wear out for a long time. I don't wanna have to change and go through priming again. I got it from Ace Hardware.

I tapped the banjo bolt with a 1/8 npt tap. I first used a 5/16" drill bit for the hole, then went bigger because it was too hard and I didn't want to break my tap. The metal of the banjo bolt is pretty hard. Harder than the exhaust manifold.

Now I'm seeing about 16-17 psi at idle, about 22-24 psi at 2500 rpms, and about 20 psi steady while driving. Looks a little low to me. Hopefully the simple fuel filters, overflow valve, etc. will be the cause of my poor fuel economy.

BTW, I opened the valve a little too much at the beginning and the needle on my gauge was pulsating +/- about 8 psi for about 30 seconds. This wouldn't have done any damage to my gauge right?

Couple pictures:

Rsquared28

Sounds like everyday at work

BIGHEAD

All I can tell you is beware of IssPro fuel guages. I have installed 2 in my truck & both leaked trhu the seals in the guage & all over my dash. If I even put another one in, it will be an electric one. good luck with it. I think you have trouble on the way, since you already have fuel in the guage. That tells me something is wrong with that guage. You should not have fuel inside the guage.

wcbcruzer

Oh what I meant by fuel in the gauge was that fuel shot into the gauge through the holes in the back. One hole, for example, is the one for the light.

TxDiesel007

Charles

Ur Fuel pressure seems fine to me, 17 is the lower acceptable end of the idle, 17-22 is fine, everything else is good, If you want a bit more pressure tho, stretch out that spring in the OFV a little or modify it.. pm me on how

Rick

Muddin_dude06

Why did you prime the line? When I installed mine I didn't and I have never had an issue, about the same time my dash cluster reads full oil pressure my fuel press. gauge is reading nice and steady... I tried running hydralic hose all the way to mine but it was too much of a hassle so I used an 18" whip extension from the gauge to the hydralic hose so it would fit. Tommorrow I'm actually going to take that setup out and run nylon tubing all the way from the needle valve to the gauge so I can put the fuel press. gauge in the middle of my pillar pod, lol.

wcbcruzer

Cool, thanks Rick. I'll hit you up when I get around to it.

I primed the line to get the air bubbles out. I want to make sure the gauge is reading as accurately as possible.

Ram1999

I didn't and never have primed a line to a pressure guage.

No matter what you do you will have some air in the system. Priming the line will rid it of air...what about the air inside of the guage? There is a large bladder inside the guage shaped like a C that moves with pressure, there will still be air inside of it.

I see many people here saying you must bleed the line...nothing wrong with doing so, I don't see the need.

mainer

what did you use for sealant between banjo bolt and the braided line?

wcbcruzer

I used some Permatex anti-seize compound... I would've used Permatex #2 but I already had anti-seize.

DL1221

Holly cow! How in the world did you get that fat braided line up into the A-pillar? I had a hell of a time squeezing the skinny line up to the boost gauge. My weapon of choice for fuel gauges is 1/8 copper tubbing. I run 1/4 rubber line from the banjo bolt to the fender, then from the fender to the gauge I run the 1/8 copper. I like the copper better than plastic because it doesn't kink as easily, and rats can't chew on it!

Not that this helps you any, but Ram1999 is right, you don't really have to bleed any of the lines for fuel or oil pressure gauges. The air bubbles will eventually work themselves out.

Oh, if you don't have a service manual, the specification for fuel pressure are:
17-22 psi at idle
25-35 psi at 2500RPM (no load)

I get about 20psi at idle, and about 30-33psi at 2500RPM. You're right its probably just your overflow valve.

wcbcruzer

Well, I ended up moving the fuel pressure gauge up to the second hole in the triple pillar (I like watching my boost in the first hole). I had to disconnect the fuel line from the back of the gauge, and as I expected there was no fuel in it. So yes, you do NOT need to prime the fuel line for installing a mechanical gauge. Other people on this forum were saying that you needed to do that. So after all, installing a mechanical fp gauge is just as easy and clean as installing an electrical one.

It's also louder inside the cab now from the knocking sound of the injection pump traveling through the diesel in the fuel line.

Olratlr

I have used a Isspro mech Fuel Pressure gauge 5 yrs no problems.