Jammer 3's install with pics
#1
Jammer 3's install with pics
I did this yesterday, it took me about 2.5 hours. Having never done injectors, I was being overly cautious.
You want to start with a clean engine compartment, especially around the injector line/valve cover area. Disconnect both batteries.
First, undo the oil dipstick, and bolts holding down the intake and heating grid assembly, and stuff rags into the intake, and boost line.
Here you can see my valve cover bolts are loosened. The valve cover can be a little tricky tol remove. Tilt the cover 45° or so, and remove the rear bolt, makes life easier.
You can also see I've unscrewed the injector line retaining nuts, and slid them up the fuel lines. I've also removed all fuel line hold down bracket bolts as well.
Here is injector #1, seated in it's well. If you look up at #2, you can see that the bridge is still installed. You only need to remove the left bolt, the other side of the bridge is slotted and will slide out.
Loosening the fuel line brackets allowed me to move the lines, ever so gently away from the injector feed tubes. Be careful, the last thing you want is a bent/kinked line. After I pulled the lines back, I used a small screwdriver to pry the threads of the feed tube out, and to pull then out of the head an inch or so. The injector will NOT come out unless you do this
Here, I've used an intake bolt, and threaded it into the top of the injector. You can fashion a mini slide hammer if you want, but it wasn't needed in my case.
I used a pair of bent needle nose pliers, and leveraged it against the valve cradles to "pop" the injector out.
And here is #1 removed! I was very happy at this point.
The new, 100 hp internal bling!
Use a bit of grease to hold the copper washer on the new injectors when you insert them into the head. Also, on removing the old injectors, make sure the old copper washer comes out along with the injectors. All of mine came out fine. You can also see my 19mm crows foot I used on the rear injector line retaining nuts.
At this point, my camera died. I apologize for that.
To reseat the injectors, make sure the fuel hole is lined up with the feeder tube, and tap the bolt to make it seat. Remove bolt, and replace bridge.
#5 and 6 injectors require creativity to remove, and replace. I used a wrecking bar to remove them.
After they are all installed, replace the valve cover, and button everything up. Make sure all toold are removed from engine compartment, and re-connect the batteries.
Some say to leave a few lines loose, and to crank the engine until fuel comes out.
I didn't do that, I tightened everything up, and bumped the starter. This caused the fuel pump to run for 30 seconds. I repeated 4 times, then held the accelerator pedal half way and started it up. It ran rough for maybe 5 seconds, and then all was fine.
You want to start with a clean engine compartment, especially around the injector line/valve cover area. Disconnect both batteries.
First, undo the oil dipstick, and bolts holding down the intake and heating grid assembly, and stuff rags into the intake, and boost line.
Here you can see my valve cover bolts are loosened. The valve cover can be a little tricky tol remove. Tilt the cover 45° or so, and remove the rear bolt, makes life easier.
You can also see I've unscrewed the injector line retaining nuts, and slid them up the fuel lines. I've also removed all fuel line hold down bracket bolts as well.
Here is injector #1, seated in it's well. If you look up at #2, you can see that the bridge is still installed. You only need to remove the left bolt, the other side of the bridge is slotted and will slide out.
Loosening the fuel line brackets allowed me to move the lines, ever so gently away from the injector feed tubes. Be careful, the last thing you want is a bent/kinked line. After I pulled the lines back, I used a small screwdriver to pry the threads of the feed tube out, and to pull then out of the head an inch or so. The injector will NOT come out unless you do this
Here, I've used an intake bolt, and threaded it into the top of the injector. You can fashion a mini slide hammer if you want, but it wasn't needed in my case.
I used a pair of bent needle nose pliers, and leveraged it against the valve cradles to "pop" the injector out.
And here is #1 removed! I was very happy at this point.
The new, 100 hp internal bling!
Use a bit of grease to hold the copper washer on the new injectors when you insert them into the head. Also, on removing the old injectors, make sure the old copper washer comes out along with the injectors. All of mine came out fine. You can also see my 19mm crows foot I used on the rear injector line retaining nuts.
At this point, my camera died. I apologize for that.
To reseat the injectors, make sure the fuel hole is lined up with the feeder tube, and tap the bolt to make it seat. Remove bolt, and replace bridge.
#5 and 6 injectors require creativity to remove, and replace. I used a wrecking bar to remove them.
After they are all installed, replace the valve cover, and button everything up. Make sure all toold are removed from engine compartment, and re-connect the batteries.
Some say to leave a few lines loose, and to crank the engine until fuel comes out.
I didn't do that, I tightened everything up, and bumped the starter. This caused the fuel pump to run for 30 seconds. I repeated 4 times, then held the accelerator pedal half way and started it up. It ran rough for maybe 5 seconds, and then all was fine.
#6
good pics, when i put injectors in i dont pull the line all the way out, just get to the last of the threads and pop them out using valve cover bolts and a pry bar. and then they they just set right back in. i dont know if it is the perfect way to do it but it has always worked for me faster too about 1 hr.
#7
I will be doing this myself in the next week or so, just wondering how you like the III's. I started with a VA5 and was not very impressed. I am hoping the injectors make more of a difference. Thanks
CJ
CJ
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#9
Great job with the photo's!!! I put my Jammer III's in at the beginning of March and they are awesome! Thanks to Bryan Crouch(JDGNut) I got mine in with in a 45 minute time frame. They really bring the truck to life. in more ways than one. Well Done!
R/
Eric
R/
Eric
#11
Great pics!!
When I did mine I did not pull the injector tubes back first, I just moved the line out of the way and pulled the injector, I had no problems, but like the idea of pulling the tubes out of the way first. Anyone else do it this way?
Bob
When I did mine I did not pull the injector tubes back first, I just moved the line out of the way and pulled the injector, I had no problems, but like the idea of pulling the tubes out of the way first. Anyone else do it this way?
Bob
#13
Originally Posted by GlennRMK
Nice!
Thanks for the pics
How do you like the Jammer IIIs?
What other mods do you have?
I'm still debating between Jammer IIs and IIIs myself.
Thanks for the pics
How do you like the Jammer IIIs?
What other mods do you have?
I'm still debating between Jammer IIs and IIIs myself.
Speaking of, I have a Comp box, FASSII 95pgph, AFE stage 2, 4" exhaust and the sticks.
Originally Posted by FDPOWER
where did you get that blue valve cover from?
Originally Posted by CRSmith
Nice thumb carnage.
Originally Posted by Geico266
Very cool photos.
I hope you took the plastic cap off the end before you put the new injectors in.
I hope you took the plastic cap off the end before you put the new injectors in.
#15
Originally Posted by CJ
I will be doing this myself in the next week or so, just wondering how you like the III's. I started with a VA5 and was not very impressed. I am hoping the injectors make more of a difference. Thanks
CJ
CJ
i ran a VA5 with 100hp sticks from diesel dynamics and it was a strong runner on the stock fast spooling hx35...you should be happy so long as your tranny/clutch holds the power