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issues after vp44 replacement

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Old 11-13-2009 | 01:50 AM
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issues after vp44 replacement

So i recently killed my lift pump for the second time on an original vp. I decided to change my vp44 as i was finishing up my airdog 150/liberty module install because i didnt want to end up stuck on the side of the freeway like some powerstroke or something.

So i order and install the standard blue chip vp44 with no issues. I also swapped my plastic wire tap cover from my old vp to the new one for my edge comp. Truck fires up and runs no problem. Only problems now are my fuel gauge is stuck reading just under 1/4 tank and i have LESS power. I double checked the wire tap connection for the comp and it is fine. The comp is definately adding power but not near as agressive as before. I used to push over 30 lbs of boost on hard acceleration and now i can barely push it past 20. It feels like i am not getting any timing advance from the comp as the higher rpm power is gone. Anyone have any ideas or run into a similar problem?
Old 11-13-2009 | 11:13 AM
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double check your map sensor connection. i had a similar issue once where the truck wouldn't build much boost because the boost fooling was not working properly.

also for your fuel problem, did you drop the tank to install the draw straw? sometimes you can mess up the wires going to the fuel sender in the tank, or the actual arm that floats up and down could be stuck on something in the tank.
Old 11-13-2009 | 08:34 PM
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I checked the MAP and DLC plugs again, they are fine. The comp is acting like an EZ. Only level 1 adds any power, so this should point to a problem with the wire tap correct? Is there any way i can check to see if the wire tap signal is getting to the comp or am i going to have to send it in to edge?

And yes i dropped the tank to install the new module. I will have to drop it again to check it out i guess. Did i miss something that had to be changed on the liberty module before it was installed? I was under the impression that it was a drop in replacement.
Old 11-13-2009 | 11:39 PM
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for the fuel module there is 2 arrows that need to be lined up, if they are not lined up you can jam the float against the side of the tank, causing it to stick.
one arrow is on the module other is on the tank, you should be able to loosen the ring and rotate the module without dropping the tank or lifting off the bed.
as for checking your tap I think there is a way of testing it (cant remember but think I read something somewhere) on the J/A you remove the cover and look for scrolling lights to ensure a good tap connections
Old 11-14-2009 | 12:06 PM
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Thanks for the tips Nick. I will check the module alignment today.

Does anyone know if you can check the comp wire tap the same as the juice/attitude?
Old 11-14-2009 | 08:36 PM
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I checked the resistance in the pump tap wire all the way from the tapping screw in the plastic cover to where it plugs into the box and it is ok. Could the comp issue be something to do with the blue chip vp44 computer being an updated unit?

Anyone else have some ideas?
Old 11-15-2009 | 09:43 AM
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i had to change my apps after i put my bluechip vp44 my quadzilla wouldnt stay on when in the fuel could try a apps reset
Old 12-31-2009 | 08:48 PM
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Update:

It is not an issue with the edge comp. I disconnected the comp and borrowed a buddies smarty and set my truck to #9. Same problem, where the truck only builds ~24psi boost and accelerates slower than it used to before the fuel system upgrade. Feels identical to the edge comp. So i am going to cross my fingers and try an APPS reset tomorrow.

Any other suggestions?
Old 01-01-2010 | 10:17 AM
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a smarty only makes as much power as an EZ so that does not help trouble shoot anything,it only helps enforce the idea that you dont have a wire tap. even though you used a multimeter to check the wire from the screw to the comp, the problem could still be where the screw attaches to the VP, I'm not certain butI think you can check for voltage, up near the comp when the wiretap is installed, (I'll have to do a search to confirm this),
other things to check are (I'm not falimiar with the comp) comp settings, and maybe a boost leak, or someone sent you the wrong pump (ho instead of so)
just tossing out ideas.
Old 01-01-2010 | 03:24 PM
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I think there should be 12v at the screw on the vp cover.
Old 01-01-2010 | 04:28 PM
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My buddies 2000 had a similar problem. Except it kept loosing power. Ended up finally throwing a code for the crank position sensor. Swaped it out and it ran like it should. His started after a stock vp44 replacement also, don't know if that means anything.
Old 01-04-2010 | 09:10 PM
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I'm still having this same issue since my dealer replaced my stock lift pump with the in-tank model and replaced the VP44. The truck just doesn't have the same power it did before these two components were replaced. As The Dude said, "That's a bummer, man."
Old 01-04-2010 | 11:32 PM
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So i did an apps reset and the truck feels more alive than it did before. I can definately feel the power increase with each level now, but i still dont feel like i am getting 100% from the truck. Is there a way to test the apps for proper function? If i hook into the truck with a scanner and i dont see 100% throttle pos. with the pedal floored, would that indicate a bad apps?
Old 01-04-2010 | 11:47 PM
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Originally Posted by nickg
a smarty only makes as much power as an EZ so that does not help trouble shoot anything,it only helps enforce the idea that you dont have a wire tap. even though you used a multimeter to check the wire from the screw to the comp, the problem could still be where the screw attaches to the VP, I'm not certain butI think you can check for voltage, up near the comp when the wiretap is installed, (I'll have to do a search to confirm this),
other things to check are (I'm not falimiar with the comp) comp settings, and maybe a boost leak, or someone sent you the wrong pump (ho instead of so)
just tossing out ideas.

i did test all the way through the edge comp harness. I was getting full system voltage from the wire tap at the white plug that goes in the back of the edge box.

i have not checked for boost leaks, but the only place i opened up the intake system was when i unbolted the intake horn and grid heater.

I could be wrong but i thought the smarty added more than 65hp?
Old 01-17-2010 | 05:45 AM
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nope on the smarty (65hp) they just get aggressive on the bottom end. i don't think there is anything out there that is over 65 hp at wheels unless you tap the pump wire.


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