GaCamper

Will be receiving my Pyrometer the first of the week. It is set up to install behind the turbo in the exhaust pipe. My question is....How close to the turbo should I install the probe in the exhaust pipe?

AlK

Personally, I think it is preferable to instal the pyro pre-turbo (in the exhaust manifold). That way you will not have to do any mathematical calculations to know what the engine temperature is. There is at least a 300 degree difference between pre and post readings plus an adjustment for increases in boost. Take a look at the TST site for instructions.<br>http://www.tstproducts.com/gauge_install.html<br>---<br>Al

BigBlue

I've got a pre/post setup on mine. And at WOT on mine, there is almost a 500* difference between the two.

Joel Richards

[quote author=GaCamper link=board=7;threadid=14301;start=0#134473 date=1051927246]
Will be receiving my Pyrometer the first of the week. It is set up to install behind the turbo in the exhaust pipe. My question is....How close to the turbo should I install the probe in the exhaust pipe?
[/quote]

If you have the ability, the best place to put the pyro is in the exhaust manifold. You get very accurate readings on the true EGT's that way. I have pre and post turbo guages and see anywhere from 100* to 400* differences depending on how heavy my foot is. There's too much fluctuation for the post-turbo only approach IMHO.

HTH
-joel

Dojman

I dont have a pyrometer yet. When I do put one in, I'll put it down stream of the turbo I think. What's been good enough for road trucks all these years, is good enough for mine. I like the idea of not providing something to go through the turbo : I also wonder how many out there also have TWO preturbo probes to monitor ALL six cylinders instead of just three(basicly)due to the division in the exhaust manifold, or at least offset position of the probe. Alk would you explain why you would have to calculate for boost?No boost guage?Thanks in advance.

BigBlue

The boost gauge is valuable in that you can see if you have a leak somewhere in your intercooler or plumbing. Plus it's cool to see the little needle swing up. ;D

SjLingenfelter

Just make sure you get a high enough reading Boost gauge. My brother bought my dad one and was only 30vac and 20psi. I just laughed he was like what. I said diesel doesnt need Vac. And you gonna blow past 20 anyways. SO when ever I take off 1st gear 20 psi 2nd 25psi 3rd pointing stright down.

OlBlue

If you don't take the turbo off, In addition or instead of the magnet, use Q-Tips with a little bit of grease on the end (lots of them) to get the metal shavings out of the exhaust manifold. With the Q-Tips you can reach where the magnet doesn't. Just keep at it until no more metal shavings come out.<br><br>Also, use grease, petroleum jelly, what ever you have, on the tap. It will trap the metal to the tap as you thread the manifold. You'll need to clean and replace the grease 4 or 5 times before you're through.<br><br>Your fitting will have tapered threads, so you don't want to tap any further into the manifold than necessary. Use one of the Q-Tip shafts to mark the thickness of the manifold metal in the hole. Transfer this depth to the threads on the coupler. Tap a little, insert coupler and tighten, check depth to mark, and tap a little more as necessary. You should try to thread just enough so the bottom of the coupler is flush with the inside surface of the manifold.<br><br>Lastly, don't over tighten the fitting without the thermocoupler inserted. You can collapse the collar so the thermocouple won't fit through anymore. If you do, just patiently drill the fitting out so the thermocouple will fit again.<br><br>A lot of words, but the project really is easy. Take your time and have fun!<br>

Haulin_in_Dixie

Now this may sound like a stupid question to a few, but..... What does it hurt if the chips just blow out past the exhaust impeller? I have been around and working on trucks a long time and it think this is just paranoid overkill. I realize that broken peices of firering from a Detroit two cycle will chip the impeller, but the impeller is pretty tough stuff. With the exception of rings blowing through the turbo as mentioned above I have never seen a damaged impeller.

OlBlue

Gary-KJ6Q<br><br>I enjoy working on my CTD and in doing so, making sure I don't &quot;break&quot; it by &quot;fixing&quot; (read bombing) it. You know, giving that extra TLC so I can expect a little more. I'm not likely going to change, but you could be right for just getting in and getting it done. Have you had an opportunity to look at the exhaust wheel of your turbo? <br><br>It makes sense that the manifold material would be softer than the turbine, and starting the engine would have a relatively low volume/velocity of air to start moving any shavings and possibly not hurt the turbo? You've got me curious.<br><br>Thanks<br>OlBlue

jiMMyCTD

I just bought myself the autometer ultra lite pyro, i noticed in their instructions it comes with a bung that you drill a hole in the exhaust manifold and just tap the bung in place and then weld it in, is this safe? the other 2 methods of mounting look rather silly, unless there is a secrect already tapped plug somewher ein teh manifold?

jiMMy

kyle@ftlb

I've seen hundreds of pyro's drilled working at a shop and never once have you dont anything to try adn get the metal shavings. They dont do anything, just blow right through on startup. Dont worry about drilling your pyro int he manifold. Definetly dot drill it post turbo. Like stated above temps can be way off.

infidel

I've had two trucks in the shop whose exhaust impellers were ruined from a chip wedging in-between the impeller and housing stopping it dead. The heat warped the impellers. Both times the chip that caused it was the big one formed when the bit pops though. It does happen, if you're the one paying for it a little caution goes a long way.
I just unbolt the turbo before tapping, slip a piece of cardboard in-between the manifold and turbo and start the engine before bolting it back together. Easier than fooling around with grease, Q-tips and magnets.

Never seen a turbo damaged from a thermocouple falling apart, but have seen ruined engines from people who assume their post turbo reading math is correct.