Installing the pyro
#1
I think I can... I think...
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Installing the pyro
I purchased a set of Autometer Z series gauges and thought I was all prepared to install the pyro.
I decided to look at a few posts and found that some say I will need to add another fitting in order to keep the pyro from going too far into the exhaust stream.
I took the pyro and compared it to the exhaust. It appears that my pyro is going to bottom out against the bottom of the manifold. How big is the I.D. of the manifold. I'm probably going to have about 1 1/8" of pyro sticking into the manifold. Is that going to bottom out in there?
I'm glad I haven't drilled it yet.
I decided to look at a few posts and found that some say I will need to add another fitting in order to keep the pyro from going too far into the exhaust stream.
I took the pyro and compared it to the exhaust. It appears that my pyro is going to bottom out against the bottom of the manifold. How big is the I.D. of the manifold. I'm probably going to have about 1 1/8" of pyro sticking into the manifold. Is that going to bottom out in there?
I'm glad I haven't drilled it yet.
#3
I think I can... I think...
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I'm not sure how to do that other than putting the fitting into the manifold by only a couple of threads. When the nut screws down onto the fitting it pushes the thermocouple all the way down.
Am I missing something?
Am I missing something?
#4
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I installed the same gauges on my 01' drilled out the manifold and installed the probe. It looked like it was going to bottom out but it did not. It is close but there is room between the probe and the bottom of the manifold. And it works great, no problems.
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Hey Capt. Ron. I had the same probe, same problem. I asked around (all the experts? I could find) and decided that it would be fine to use a brass compression sleeve a little further down towards the tip of the pyro probe. I slid the female part of the stainless fitting back out along the wire, and then put it over the tip, and then used the compression sleeve with the fitting supplied. It has been on there for many kilometers and I haven't had a problem with it. I was only really concerned about temperatures, but brass will hold up to any egt I can produce. Hope this helps. Bigfish.
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I did not run treads all the way down through the drilled out hole. I tried to stop just before I thought it was about to tap through. If I can remember back, I am sure that I got at least three or four turns before the bushing tightened up. Don't crank on it just snug it up good with some kind of never sieze and you are good togo.
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#8
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This is a Isspro Adjustable thermocouple.
This is the one I used with my gauges.
You can set the depth of the probe in the manifold.
You might check to see if Autometer has the same type of adjustable thermo.
This is the one I used with my gauges.
You can set the depth of the probe in the manifold.
You might check to see if Autometer has the same type of adjustable thermo.
#9
I think I can... I think...
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It's in!
All went well just using the provided parts.
Now I need to get the gauges mounted and the wiring fed down behind the dash.
My trans temp prob has a big edit nut that is going to give me edit trying to sqeeze it through the opening at the corner of the dash.
All went well just using the provided parts.
Now I need to get the gauges mounted and the wiring fed down behind the dash.
My trans temp prob has a big edit nut that is going to give me edit trying to sqeeze it through the opening at the corner of the dash.
#12
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Too late now, but....
Tap manifold to a bigger pipe size and instal a brass reducer bushing. Then thread the thermo into the brass bushing. Eliminates possibility of thermo sticking in manifold and gives you your clearance.
Tap manifold to a bigger pipe size and instal a brass reducer bushing. Then thread the thermo into the brass bushing. Eliminates possibility of thermo sticking in manifold and gives you your clearance.
#13
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See my reader's gallery for a pic of an Autometer probe installed at the proper depth and location. I was **** and it went well without yanking the turbo.
The brass reducer is a good idea, but I used a hi-temp anti-seize. I had no problem pulling the probe out of its previous post-turbo location and moving it to a better pre-trubo location.
jlh
The brass reducer is a good idea, but I used a hi-temp anti-seize. I had no problem pulling the probe out of its previous post-turbo location and moving it to a better pre-trubo location.
jlh
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