installing governer spring kit (easy?)
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installing governer spring kit (easy?)
I am a fairly good mechanic ie I build my own race cars and installed a #6 TST plate easily. I am trying to find out about installing a 3k governor spring kit. Hard, easy? Scale of 1-10 with 10 being pull and rebuild an engine and 1 being an oil change, how ahrd would it be?<br><br>Thanks!<br>Don M.
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Re:installing governer spring kit (easy?)
Installing the 300GSK is not difficult, but it is a little intimidating the first time.<br><br>You can go into the governor either through the top, under the plate, or through the thin access nut on the side of the pump.<br><br>In either case, you need to remove the airhorn, etc.<br><br>Once inside, rotate the engine until you see the springs. They are fastened with a split nut that "clicks" on a ratchet...count the number of clicks when you remove the springs. Follow the instructions for which springs to install. Turn the engine to the next set of springs, and repeat.<br><br>Put everything back together. The most difficult part of going through the side is coping with one of the solenoid hold down bolts. Through the top, you need to have a good magnet in case something falls.<br><br>You may need to adjust the idle when you are finished.<br>george
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Re:installing governer spring kit (easy?)
turbospl311,<br>On your scale of 1 to 10 I'd give it a 3. I found it to be more tedious than anything. I went in through the top of the pump and felt like I was doing brain surgury or something. A good magnet is a must ;D
#4
Re:installing governer spring kit (easy?)
Ditto on the magnet. I concur with the "3". I went through the side of the pump, little tight but not a nightmare. All done in less than an hour. Hero-sized difference in performance!
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Re:installing governer spring kit (easy?)
The Piers 3K GSK will come with a nice set of written instructions for going in through the side. But you have to get the solenoid out of the way and cut a lock wire to get to the plug. It would be almost impossible to get that safety wire back on and make it look original. Much better to go through the top, just do everything else the same.
You can also use a slide caliper to measure the depth of your retainer nuts (as mentioned in the instructions) as well as count "clicks" or turns.
After removing the AFC and cam plate, a large screwdriver and magnetic retriever were all the tools it took. ;D
BTW, I just used a 22mm socket on the alternator nut and carefully (slowly) turned the engine backwards. It was easier than pulling the plug to use the regular barring point.
You can also use a slide caliper to measure the depth of your retainer nuts (as mentioned in the instructions) as well as count "clicks" or turns.
After removing the AFC and cam plate, a large screwdriver and magnetic retriever were all the tools it took. ;D
BTW, I just used a 22mm socket on the alternator nut and carefully (slowly) turned the engine backwards. It was easier than pulling the plug to use the regular barring point.
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