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Installation Pictures Of Dynatrac Hubs.

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Old 03-18-2008 | 02:31 PM
  #16  
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Originally Posted by 91rangerturbo
cheaper wheel bearing replacements and less drivetrain stress. Also they offer a CAD delete.

I used an axle for the 02 in order to eliminate the cad. The axle an seal work perfect. The new seal was installed in the factory cad seal location. The seal I used was the same seal used on the drivers side of the 01. The 01 and 02 seals are the same part number. New axle is 32 spline 1 1/2"s in diameter. The price of the new 02 axle and seal were cheaper by $20 than the cad delete kit offered by EMS Offroad. The new axle and seal were purchased at the dodge dealership. I have part numbers for anyone interested.
Old 03-18-2008 | 03:51 PM
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Originally Posted by rpausewang
You would not believe the turning, bump stop to bump stop and no torque binding. Using the complete turning radius is great, while in 4 wheel drive.
Why does that improve? Isn't binding in 4wd caused by the full time transfer case? Maybe it was the wet pasture that caused no binding - the wheels were able to skip a little? My stock 4wd does not bind unless there is good traction.
Old 03-18-2008 | 04:45 PM
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Originally Posted by PaulDaisy
Why does that improve? Isn't binding in 4wd caused by the full time transfer case? Maybe it was the wet pasture that caused no binding - the wheels were able to skip a little? My stock 4wd does not bind unless there is good traction.

The transfer case isn't full time. Any time I had four wheel drive engaged on any surface I could only turn the wheels 2/3s of there turning radius. I can turn the wheels full turn and no binding. When I was stock that was not possible. There were many times I had to back, move forward, back, and move forward to turn to get where I was going. Lots of the roads I travel offroad are very tight turns and therefor require backing and moving forward. Now I can turn and make it instead of back, forward and so on.

Now if I were to install traction enhancing differential, LS or locker the binding will be back. This is do to the fact that both wheels are grabbing instead of one wheel grabbing with an open differential. There are guys on here that can explain it better. Ron
Old 03-19-2008 | 08:55 AM
  #19  
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nice pics this should be a sticky or tech post.

so now you will have to manually engauge 4x4 ?
Old 03-19-2008 | 11:41 AM
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We'll I'm going for it too on my 02 (no CAD) . What did you use to cut your hub caps ???? Very nice job.
Old 03-19-2008 | 02:43 PM
  #21  
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Originally Posted by Joe Diesel
nice pics this should be a sticky or tech post.

so now you will have to manually engauge 4x4 ?
Yes to use 4X4 I get out lock the hubs and shift the tranfercase into gear. This is the old school way 4X4 works.
Old 03-19-2008 | 02:52 PM
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Originally Posted by caper
We'll I'm going for it too on my 02 (no CAD) . What did you use to cut your hub caps ???? Very nice job.
I used a drimmel tool. The bit looked like a drill bit. I did the first one and cut it to big. The second is a perfect fit. I did the second one from the face side to the outside of the recessed area. Trimming small amounts at a time. I need to get me another cap and redo it for the one that's to big. I just like things as perfect as possible, that's just my nature. Ron
Old 05-20-2008 | 05:27 PM
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Mileage Update.

Well I was finaly able to drive to the farm and back home. 220 mile round trip. Mileage has improved 2.3 mpg. I added a mbrp straight through muffler last week. So with the free spin conversion kit and the muffler the 2.3 mpg gain is great.
Old 05-20-2008 | 06:04 PM
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Nice pics! Great thread, rpausewang! This is about as definitive as any Dynatrac install thread I have seen-- perhaps better.

I have to admit that I'm baffled as to how you are noticing less binding in 4wd. I say this because when locked into 4wd, the Dynatrac kit will behave exactly the same as the stock 4wd setup-- hence, there should be no change in bind-up tendency. Think about it: when your dynatrac hubs are locked in, the 4wd system would behave EXACTLY the same as a non-CAD 02 driveline would.

Anyway, I also want to say that those are some impressively beefy parts. those stub shafts are awesome looking!


If I did this kit, I'd also upgrade the inners to the 35spline units so I'd have more choice in a traction aid up front. Right now, an ARB is the only option for the 32 spline Dodge front that I know of.

Upgrading to 35 spline inners lets you go to a TrueTrac up front, and have an LSD up front instead of a locker (which I'd personally prefer). Then, you can unlock the hubs and not have any LSD wear at all.

jh
Old 05-20-2008 | 08:07 PM
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Did you use new studs or old. New U joints or old. I had a stroke 2 and 1/2 years ago and my strenght still leaves alot to be desired. Think I can tackle this one? Great pics.....thanks. Oh, how long did it take....use any special tools, how were the Hubs to take off?
Old 05-20-2008 | 10:33 PM
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Originally Posted by HOHN
Nice pics! Great thread, rpausewang! This is about as definitive as any Dynatrac install thread I have seen-- perhaps better.

I have to admit that I'm baffled as to how you are noticing less binding in 4wd. I say this because when locked into 4wd, the Dynatrac kit will behave exactly the same as the stock 4wd setup-- hence, there should be no change in bind-up tendency. Think about it: when your dynatrac hubs are locked in, the 4wd system would behave EXACTLY the same as a non-CAD 02 driveline would.

Anyway, I also want to say that those are some impressively beefy parts. those stub shafts are awesome looking!


If I did this kit, I'd also upgrade the inners to the 35spline units so I'd have more choice in a traction aid up front. Right now, an ARB is the only option for the 32 spline Dodge front that I know of.

Upgrading to 35 spline inners lets you go to a TrueTrac up front, and have an LSD up front instead of a locker (which I'd personally prefer). Then, you can unlock the hubs and not have any LSD wear at all.

jh
Maybe the longer outers and the bearing spacing helps the ujoint turn a bit freer than the factory stuff. I know my truck is bind and torque steer city in 4 wheel drive more so than any other 4x4 I have ever owned. I replaced my driver side outer ujoint thinking it was bad and it made 0 difference.
Old 05-20-2008 | 10:37 PM
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I understand what you're saying about the binding issue. The only conclusion that I could come to ,is the two piece inner axle shafts with the cad were loading and causing such binding.? The inner axles are still 32 spline, but are 1 1/2" dia. I wanted the 35 spline , but Dynatrac had suspended sells due to leaking seal issue. So I went with the 02 one piece inner axle.


Originally Posted by HOHN
Nice pics! Great thread, rpausewang! This is about as definitive as any Dynatrac install thread I have seen-- perhaps better.

I have to admit that I'm baffled as to how you are noticing less binding in 4wd. I say this because when locked into 4wd, the Dynatrac kit will behave exactly the same as the stock 4wd setup-- hence, there should be no change in bind-up tendency. Think about it: when your dynatrac hubs are locked in, the 4wd system would behave EXACTLY the same as a non-CAD 02 driveline would.

Anyway, I also want to say that those are some impressively beefy parts. those stub shafts are awesome looking!


If I did this kit, I'd also upgrade the inners to the 35spline units so I'd have more choice in a traction aid up front. Right now, an ARB is the only option for the 32 spline Dodge front that I know of.

Upgrading to 35 spline inners lets you go to a TrueTrac up front, and have an LSD up front instead of a locker (which I'd personally prefer). Then, you can unlock the hubs and not have any LSD wear at all.

jh
Old 05-20-2008 | 11:06 PM
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Originally Posted by annabelle
Did you use new studs or old. New U joints or old. I had a stroke 2 and 1/2 years ago and my strenght still leaves alot to be desired. Think I can tackle this one? Great pics.....thanks. Oh, how long did it take....use any special tools, how were the Hubs to take off?

There were new studs included in the kit. I used new u-joints. No since using the old. You need a 14 and 16mm 12 point socket to remove the caliper and spindle bolts. Use of anything else will round off the bolt heads. I made my own seal installer out of a 1/2" X 36" all tread. This is do to the seal location in the cad housing. The install took me about three days off and on over a couple of weeks. I have disease in my spine and muscles which limit my time. The hubs came off Ok with the help of a rubber mallet. Everything went together well. Seating the seal on the passenger side was a bit tough, but other than that, Ok.
Old 05-21-2008 | 12:06 AM
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Thanks, and a 1 &11/16 for the hub nut?
Old 05-22-2008 | 02:51 AM
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nice pics, suprised though, i thought someone told me that kit wouldnt stick out as far as mine but ur pics they look the same. i have 265s right now, with the stock steel wheel when ur directly infront just the crome on the hup sticks out thats what ur pics look lik too



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