Installation of DV
11-12-2008, 02:31 PM
#3
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You need a special socket. Piers diesel sells them for $30.
Its pretty straight forward though. Remove the intake horn, injection lines, and then the DV tops that require the special socket. Be careful because there is a ball and spring in there that can fall out. Once mine are loose, I always tilt them to the side so it all stays in the DV top. Once those are out of the way the DV's and holders will be sitting in the pump. Get a magnet, pull them out, and replace them. reinstall everything and you should be good to go.
Its pretty straight forward though. Remove the intake horn, injection lines, and then the DV tops that require the special socket. Be careful because there is a ball and spring in there that can fall out. Once mine are loose, I always tilt them to the side so it all stays in the DV top. Once those are out of the way the DV's and holders will be sitting in the pump. Get a magnet, pull them out, and replace them. reinstall everything and you should be good to go.
11-12-2008, 02:51 PM
#4
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Take the old ones out put the new ones in. 
Tools needed for dv swap.
The following is every single tool I used to change the DVs.
-DVs
-DV O-rings
-shop towels
-Torque wrench
-dv socket
-1/2 drive ratchet
-3/8 drive ratchet
-combination wrenches; ¾ (injector line nuts, valve cover tin plate)
-3/8 drive sockets; deep 7/16 (intake horn rubber boost tube clamp); 10mm; short extension
-dental pick (to remove DV O-rings)
-needle nose pliers (to take out DVs)
1. remove intake horn
2. remove injection lines (valve cover cap if equipped first)
3. remove delivery valve holders (be careful to not drop the spring, shim(s) etc. from the holder)
4. Remove the old dv's. If using new, unused, dv's skip step 7.
5. Remove the washers from the dv bore (if equipped) and make sure the bore is clean.
6. If upgrading with used dv's Take the dv's, set the inner valve aside. Turn valve upside down and rub in a circuilar motion on a cloth on a flat surface until the circular scratch ring is gone. The top of the valve should look like new when done. If no scratch ring continue.
7. Do the same for the barrel, BUT MAKE SURE ALL THE SHIMS ARE OUT or you will drop them all over the floor. Rub as straight as possible and it will also shine line new.
8. Install a new green A/C o-ring if you cannot find the OEM tan colored o-rings.
9. Clean everything in fresh diesel and install the DV into pump. Fill the hole with 2 stoke oil and also dip the barrel into it to soak the oring. The oil will help get a nice smooth torque value to 85 FT LBS.
10. After assembly, the oil makes it a little hard to start, you will need the pedal wide open, and about a minute of cranking in 15-20 sec intervals.
11. If ou don't see fuel streaming around the bores, go ahead and spray with brake clean and dry with compressed air, observe for minor leaks.
Cummins recommends using gear oil on the oring and surface where the DV and DV holder meet. (replace o-rings if any are torn).
If you have leaking problems try to do steps 2 and 3 again.
Hope that works.
Tools needed for dv swap.
The following is every single tool I used to change the DVs.
-DVs
-DV O-rings
-shop towels
-Torque wrench
-dv socket
-1/2 drive ratchet
-3/8 drive ratchet
-combination wrenches; ¾ (injector line nuts, valve cover tin plate)
-3/8 drive sockets; deep 7/16 (intake horn rubber boost tube clamp); 10mm; short extension
-dental pick (to remove DV O-rings)
-needle nose pliers (to take out DVs)
1. remove intake horn
2. remove injection lines (valve cover cap if equipped first)
3. remove delivery valve holders (be careful to not drop the spring, shim(s) etc. from the holder)
4. Remove the old dv's. If using new, unused, dv's skip step 7.
5. Remove the washers from the dv bore (if equipped) and make sure the bore is clean.
6. If upgrading with used dv's Take the dv's, set the inner valve aside. Turn valve upside down and rub in a circuilar motion on a cloth on a flat surface until the circular scratch ring is gone. The top of the valve should look like new when done. If no scratch ring continue.
7. Do the same for the barrel, BUT MAKE SURE ALL THE SHIMS ARE OUT or you will drop them all over the floor. Rub as straight as possible and it will also shine line new.
8. Install a new green A/C o-ring if you cannot find the OEM tan colored o-rings.
9. Clean everything in fresh diesel and install the DV into pump. Fill the hole with 2 stoke oil and also dip the barrel into it to soak the oring. The oil will help get a nice smooth torque value to 85 FT LBS.
10. After assembly, the oil makes it a little hard to start, you will need the pedal wide open, and about a minute of cranking in 15-20 sec intervals.
11. If ou don't see fuel streaming around the bores, go ahead and spray with brake clean and dry with compressed air, observe for minor leaks.
Cummins recommends using gear oil on the oring and surface where the DV and DV holder meet. (replace o-rings if any are torn).
If you have leaking problems try to do steps 2 and 3 again.
Hope that works.
11-12-2008, 02:58 PM
#5
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You need a special socket. Piers diesel sells them for $30.
Its pretty straight forward though. Remove the intake horn, injection lines, and then the DV tops that require the special socket. Be careful because there is a ball and spring in there that can fall out. Once mine are loose, I always tilt them to the side so it all stays in the DV top. Once those are out of the way the DV's and holders will be sitting in the pump. Get a magnet, pull them out, and replace them. reinstall everything and you should be good to go.
Its pretty straight forward though. Remove the intake horn, injection lines, and then the DV tops that require the special socket. Be careful because there is a ball and spring in there that can fall out. Once mine are loose, I always tilt them to the side so it all stays in the DV top. Once those are out of the way the DV's and holders will be sitting in the pump. Get a magnet, pull them out, and replace them. reinstall everything and you should be good to go.
Snap-on sells the socket for about 35 bucks
11-12-2008, 03:09 PM
#6
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Snap-on socket
Piers has them, pure diesel power has them, peak diesel performance has them too.
Piers has them, pure diesel power has them, peak diesel performance has them too.
11-12-2008, 06:53 PM
#7
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Awsome guys,
I got them from a diesel shop that I work at during the summer.
Andy Sebek is the owner and operator of Keystone Diesel Repair LLC, located in Mt. Pleasant, Pennsylvania. He has a degreed Mechanical Engineering, has been in the performance diesel business for over 6 years now. He also has over 20 years of experience in general automotive shop repair, street rod building, and muscle car building. Keystone Diesel offers diesel related services ranging from general maintenance, diagnostics, and performance upgrades. If there is something you are looking for and do not see it on the website (keystone-diesel.com), please do not hesitate to call him. Great service and great prices are free haha
Thanks again guys!
I got them from a diesel shop that I work at during the summer.
Andy Sebek is the owner and operator of Keystone Diesel Repair LLC, located in Mt. Pleasant, Pennsylvania. He has a degreed Mechanical Engineering, has been in the performance diesel business for over 6 years now. He also has over 20 years of experience in general automotive shop repair, street rod building, and muscle car building. Keystone Diesel offers diesel related services ranging from general maintenance, diagnostics, and performance upgrades. If there is something you are looking for and do not see it on the website (keystone-diesel.com), please do not hesitate to call him. Great service and great prices are free haha
Thanks again guys!
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