injectors/nozzles
#1
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injectors/nozzles
hey guys i have a 2001 dodge ram 3500.. i run a superchip programmer and i do a fair amount of heavy towing. Just ordered a triple guage pod to keep track of things, so now im wanting a little more power. I did some searching but didnt find the answers i was looking for...
was thinking these jammer state 3 injectors would be just about perfect..
http://cgi.ebay.com/ebaymotors/INJEC...item2a01d6f0e5
whats your opinion? again im running a super chip i believe its 60-70hp and 120ft/lbs, stock turbo. I have no problem upgrading the turbo down the road, (when $ allows) if i can get by without updating it for now I'd like to do it. I dont drive like a psycho, but i like to haul *** 80 mph + down the highway and i haul a lot of hay and cattle. but i can always back my programmer down when i do that.
So will just the nozzles get me the performance i want? or should i look at new injectors? Can i get by with my set up and the state 3 nozzles? also injectors have to be tested before they are installed with new nozzles correct? thanks
was thinking these jammer state 3 injectors would be just about perfect..
http://cgi.ebay.com/ebaymotors/INJEC...item2a01d6f0e5
whats your opinion? again im running a super chip i believe its 60-70hp and 120ft/lbs, stock turbo. I have no problem upgrading the turbo down the road, (when $ allows) if i can get by without updating it for now I'd like to do it. I dont drive like a psycho, but i like to haul *** 80 mph + down the highway and i haul a lot of hay and cattle. but i can always back my programmer down when i do that.
So will just the nozzles get me the performance i want? or should i look at new injectors? Can i get by with my set up and the state 3 nozzles? also injectors have to be tested before they are installed with new nozzles correct? thanks
#2
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I have the Jammer Stage 4's on my truck. For the money I would do it again. Best bang for the buck to date. I did not even have mine pop tested. Fired right up and actually ran and idles smoother than the stock ones I took out.
Terry
Terry
#3
I don't think your stock turbo will be your issue if you go with a set of injectors. The stock clutch is probably going to be your problem. Generally you get get away with one power mod and not have clutch problems, but with two you start to see slipping unless you're really careful how you use the power. I'd save up for a clutch to do at the same time as the injectors.
As far as injectors, I'm a big fan of the Formula1 Mach series injectors. I have Mach 1s in my 2000 and love them for the power and mileage. They work beautifully with the stock turbo.
I wouldn't mess with trying to find aftermarket nozzles for your injectors. The easiest thing is to get a set of aftermarket injectors and return your stock cores.
Mike
As far as injectors, I'm a big fan of the Formula1 Mach series injectors. I have Mach 1s in my 2000 and love them for the power and mileage. They work beautifully with the stock turbo.
I wouldn't mess with trying to find aftermarket nozzles for your injectors. The easiest thing is to get a set of aftermarket injectors and return your stock cores.
Mike
#4
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my stock clutch couldn't even handle an EZ with less than 20k miles! It slipped in 5th gear right away. I went with the Southbend ConFE from the start and no trouble up to 425hp, even towing up to 12k (power turned down, of course)
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Can't say much about the Jammers, other than I have heard some isolated reports of problems with them-- which could have been installer error. I do know they are made offshore, hence the lower cost.
I went with Formula 1 injectors even at the higher price. I've now run them for almost 4 years and they have never given me any problems (other than more fuel, great power, and good mpg). I think they are great.
Your clutch will most likely be at risk with injectors added to your programmer. That said, my stock clutch held over 370hp for two years without issue. So driving style and how you use the truck really affect what it will hold.
If you stick with the stock turbo, you can run really any size injector you want. The problem will be that you can't use more than 400 hp or so, where the turbo is at its ragged limits. If you don't need more power than 36psi of boost will support, than run whatever injector you want.
I don't tow. But I've run Mach 4s (150hp rated) with my HO engine and the stock turbo for 4 years-- it works very well together. The M4s are reasonably clean for the power, and the good response of the stock charger keeps smoke under control. I'd be comfortable towing anything with my truck that I'd normally consider towing-- since I know not to try and use 415hp worth of heat in an engine designed to sustain 245hp worth of heat.
jh
I went with Formula 1 injectors even at the higher price. I've now run them for almost 4 years and they have never given me any problems (other than more fuel, great power, and good mpg). I think they are great.
Your clutch will most likely be at risk with injectors added to your programmer. That said, my stock clutch held over 370hp for two years without issue. So driving style and how you use the truck really affect what it will hold.
If you stick with the stock turbo, you can run really any size injector you want. The problem will be that you can't use more than 400 hp or so, where the turbo is at its ragged limits. If you don't need more power than 36psi of boost will support, than run whatever injector you want.
I don't tow. But I've run Mach 4s (150hp rated) with my HO engine and the stock turbo for 4 years-- it works very well together. The M4s are reasonably clean for the power, and the good response of the stock charger keeps smoke under control. I'd be comfortable towing anything with my truck that I'd normally consider towing-- since I know not to try and use 415hp worth of heat in an engine designed to sustain 245hp worth of heat.
jh
#7
You WILL wreck the clutch. That setup is nearly identical to what I run, and my last mod was the EZ timing box. That was just enough to destroy the clutch. Get a clutch right away if you do this. It won't slip, it will wrinkle the friction backing which will make the clutch drag and leave your truck out of service. It's also very hard on the transmission due to the dragging clutch. Hard on the synchonizer blocking rings in the transmission.
You almost certainly have the hx35 which is good to about 35 psi. But it set to about 22psi stock which is NOT enough airflow for your target fuel delivery with the sticks+chip. If your chip does boost fooling (you need a fooler to prevent limp mode from computer reading "overboost") you can either clock your wastegate actuator to turn up the pressure, or get a boost elbow (my EZ came with one). Theoretically 35 psi should be good for 350 hp, which you will be exceeding, but I've been fine with about 400hp. Only rolls coal with lead foot+low rpm. Chip's set on lowest to prevent low rpm overfueling, though.
If you have the small shaft 5600 your clutch will be much weaker due to the 12.25" clutch, but mine had the big shaft, so yours might too. The big shaft has a spacer between the starter and flywheel. I used a Valair clutch, and couldn't be happier with the price and quality. www.valair.com
One other thing that will likely give you trouble is the carrier bearing. You will make enough power to wrap the springs so hard as to stuff the driveshaft forward and push the carrier bearing out of it's housing. This also wrecks the transfer case tailshaft seal. Time for traction bars. I used cheapo erw pipe and went from the spring plates to the frame.
I didn't do a "pop test" mine idles fine. Keep things SOOPER CLEAN. It is VERY easy to contaminate the microscopic holes in the injectors. Also make sure the tips are evenly torqued. If you wind up with a bad idle you will probably need the pop off pressure reset by a shop, but if it idles TERRIBLY you probably contaminated the pre-injector system. It will be quite rough on startup till the air purges, though.
Have fun!
You almost certainly have the hx35 which is good to about 35 psi. But it set to about 22psi stock which is NOT enough airflow for your target fuel delivery with the sticks+chip. If your chip does boost fooling (you need a fooler to prevent limp mode from computer reading "overboost") you can either clock your wastegate actuator to turn up the pressure, or get a boost elbow (my EZ came with one). Theoretically 35 psi should be good for 350 hp, which you will be exceeding, but I've been fine with about 400hp. Only rolls coal with lead foot+low rpm. Chip's set on lowest to prevent low rpm overfueling, though.
If you have the small shaft 5600 your clutch will be much weaker due to the 12.25" clutch, but mine had the big shaft, so yours might too. The big shaft has a spacer between the starter and flywheel. I used a Valair clutch, and couldn't be happier with the price and quality. www.valair.com
One other thing that will likely give you trouble is the carrier bearing. You will make enough power to wrap the springs so hard as to stuff the driveshaft forward and push the carrier bearing out of it's housing. This also wrecks the transfer case tailshaft seal. Time for traction bars. I used cheapo erw pipe and went from the spring plates to the frame.
I didn't do a "pop test" mine idles fine. Keep things SOOPER CLEAN. It is VERY easy to contaminate the microscopic holes in the injectors. Also make sure the tips are evenly torqued. If you wind up with a bad idle you will probably need the pop off pressure reset by a shop, but if it idles TERRIBLY you probably contaminated the pre-injector system. It will be quite rough on startup till the air purges, though.
Have fun!
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#8
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Lot's of talk about the clutch, did not see any lift pump info in your sig? Hows your fuel pressure gonna like those injectors and superchip programmer?? You may need more than a clutch.....
#9
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an Air Dog 2 system is being installed tomorrow... I think im going to go with a south bend con efe clutch, then do the injectors... because i drive with my foot in it constantly, if i have more power i will wreck my clutch.
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