JIT

FYI the valve cover bolts thread right into the top of the injector and then they just pop right out. Its an easy job just take your time and go one step at a time.

Remove valve cover (tip; take the heater hose off from the left side and slide the valve cover out that way)
Remove Fuel lines
Remove Connector tubes (in the hole the fuel lines screw into)
Remove one screw from the injector cap ( I think its the left one)
Remove injector cap
Remove injector (using valve cover bolt)

The injectors have a copper washer sealing them at the head and an Oring. I would replace these as well as the oring on the connector tube. If you dont get the orings its not the end of the world but you should not replace the injectors without new copper washers.

Make sure each injector comes out with a copper washer on it because they sometimes slide off the tip and need to be fished out. When you are reinstalling them you can clean the injector and washer then put a dab of superglue on the washer to make it stay on the injector for re-installation. If not they may slide off and turn sideways making it a PITA to remove.

I'm sure there are some other tips and tricks but thats the jist of it.

Josh

Philabuster

This was the first time I attempted an injector install in a 24v. Not hard at all--just a bit of a stretch to get to #6 injector line. I'm glad I don't have to change the injectors on a Powerstroke. My friend was charged $4,500 for 8 new injectors including R&R into his 7.3L.

It took me 2 hours to install the Mach 1.6's, but then again, I wrench like old people 'make love'--real slow.

JIT

I forgot to mention that I bought a Cheap 19mm wrench and cut it down to 5" to use on the last injector line. It made things a lot easier. My first time took 1.5hrs and that included changing the Nozzles. The last time I did it in about 45min.

jdec

[QUOTE=1BAD4X4;2032826]Hmm, I don't know what I'll do then... I tried searching injector install but various random threads came up along with threads that discussed installing them, but not in depth. I'll keep sifting through them.

Go to the Turbo Diesel Register internet site and order TDR issue 51. It has the most detailed article I have ever read on injector installs. It will even show you the tools you need.

ewatts2003

If you have a 3/4 or 19mm angled wrench the #6 line is a breeze.

HOHN

I use a 19mm stubby for #6 line nut. It's hard to break loose with so little leverage, but when you go to tighten it, the stubby helps prevent overtorque.

I'd suggest starting with #6 and work your way forward. Do the toughest one while you're fresh and not as sore. It's tougher to do it after you're already tired.

I'd also suggest removing that lifting eye at the back of the engine. It gets in the way and you won't need it unless you're yanking the head or the engine.

Double ditto on the copper washers. This is probably the second most common cause of injector install issues (next to buggering the tightening of the line nut and injector retainer). Make sure each old injector comes out with the copper washer around the nozzle. If not, you can stick a std screwdriver down into the hole (small enough to fit inside the washer) and fish it out that way.

I'm glad overcame my fear of getting into the engine and did the injector swap myself. It wasn't that hard at all. I've done it three times now (twice on mine, once for a friend) and I wouldn't hesitate to do it again. There are guys on here who have swapped injectors over 100 times! IDAHO CTD has the speed record I think-- under 30min

1BAD4X4

Do the copper washers work with any injector? The J5s I have came with washers, although they are used... replace them? Can I get them from Cummins?



I think I'll attempt the install this weekend... still nervous about it though... been reading that "how to" article over and over...

1-5-3-6-2-4

I've got a PDF of a very indepth writeup....but I cannot get the link to post......

Mike Holmen

Well any of you record owner out there have you ever dropped an o-ring off the injector on the #6 cylinder. Whats the correct method on trying to get that darn thing out. Go fishing with a mirror and a wire hook.

HOHN

I don't know what O-rings eat, so I wouldn't know what to use for bait.

Man, that would suck.

Mike D

Holy crap. I wouldn't want to deal with it, but I would try to see what position the o-ring is laying in and go from there. Maybe some really sticky duct tape at the end of a pencil?

Mike Holmen

grease only works so well, or vaseline. The first trick is trying to locate it, second is find some way to get it out of there. Sometimes you get lucky, some times things go badly. Another issue is the #6 adjuster nut. Sometimes to get the injector out the adjuster nut comes out. You have to re-thread it into the head again. Do any body replace the air horn gasket during an injector swap? Mine get damaged during the pull. Reuseable yes, but causes air leaks.

Big Blue24

Are you talking about the viton rubber oring? How would it fall off, they are really difficult to slip on with trained hands! If I dropped a rubber oring into the combustion chamber, I would leave it. Engine will digest it in one or two strokes and the turbine wheel in the turbo will pulverize it into harmless projectiles to shoot out the tail pipe!

HOHN

I'd recommend replacing the gasket, but first coating the new one with Hylomar. The non-curing sealant isn't sticky and seals well while still allowing you to take it apart without tearing the gasket.

http://www.permatex.com/products/aut...ge_Sealant.htm

Mike D

What is an adjuster nut and where on the head is it located, confused about what you're talking about?