I just finished everything, and then for the moment of testing..............

NO movement of the Pacbrake arm with the switch ON.

I've checked my vacuum connections twice, and all electrical too.

When the switch is ON, I have full voltage across the solenoid...........

With the truck running, and power across the solenoid, shouldn't I be able to see the valve open ??

 

How much vacuum is your pump producing, and is it enough to trigger the canister?

if you have all of your connections right, and all the electrical done properly, there is no reason it should not work.

Where did you pull your power off of for the solenoid? I have seen instances where people used improper power points for the toggle switch. Ending up with no brake when the high beams were on, or the ign in the run position or or or.

Let me know, and I will see if I can correct the issue.

 

The Power is coming striaght from the battery

 

Even at idle, the arm of the pacbrake should move right ??

If the pin in the ECU isn't in all the way, would that affect it ??

Knowing that it has full voltage across the solenoid, does that mean the ECU is hooked up properly too??

 

that is an indicator that yes, the pin is in all the way, although you might want to check. I have had a couple instances where the brake would not engage. I found it to be a fault in the idle validation circuit

make sure that your pedal linkage and apps are working properly, either of these could confuse the idle validation, which is needed to engage the brake.

 

Isn't there a manual activation test button on the vacuum solenoid to make sure the vacuum system is good and the brake valve isn't stuck?

 

Good point Bill, the "button" doesn't really look like a button, but if you use the tip of a pen, or some such thing to push it in, it will activate the solenoid, to make sure that end of things is working.

If your connections are wrong at the actuator end, the brake will be on when the switch is off, and vice-versa. quite simple to diagnose.

 

How are you measuring the voltage at the solenoid exactly? There should always be voltage present at either leg of the solenoid connection, it's the path to ground that the ECM is providing.
You may have the ECM wired incorrectly, the pin may not be inserted fully or like pind said there may be an issue with the idle validation circuit. Check the operation of the soleniod by either finding and using the manual control button or simply use a small length of wire and manualy ground the side of the solenoid opposite of the battery connection.

 

Check your ground connection And make sure you haven't reversed the vacuum lines on the solenoid.

 

Talked to pind on the phone, and he figured it out and got me rolling (actually, stopping) again.

Rebuilt the solenoid in about 10 minutes time, and works like a champ.

Thanks !!!

 

That was my first suggestion. Just had one apart on Friday. Those o-rings are surprisingly fragile.

 

Hi,
Glad I found this thread. I just won a new Pac brake for filling out a survey on their website . Should be here next week. How are they to DIY?

Thanks

 

Very easy to install yourself.

Make sure you have the right kit, and if you have any questions, PM me. I will answer as required.

 

Look here for some possible info an article on installing one on a 2nd gen truck https://www.dieseltruckresource.com/.../pacbrake.html

 

Thanks. Excellent article