Didja get-er-dun?

Or you want to use mine and you can put a 1/4" drive extension on it upside down, with no welding needed............

 

I got one bud. Thanks for the offer though.

 

Are you gonna grind that plug tap into a bottom tap?

 

Humm... Here's what I don't understand in your logic, you pulled a HB out that was X length ( I don't remember there exact length since its been a couple of years since I did my 24v) than a tap of X length will also fit.
On the 12v the only tight ones were the back 2 that went thru the rocker towers (they add a couple of inches to the bolt length so my tap needed to be 8" if I didn't want to remove them all) so loosening the other tower bolt and tipping it to the side allowed the tap to angle up to the plug hole. As I said I did it on mine so I know it can be done just don't remember the length you need. It will be the same as the longest HB. I do remember that I didn't have to cut insulation or pry the cowl to pull or install the studs? Maybe my truck was different?

 

whats the difference in his tap v. a bottom tap

 

Sorry for the off topic.
ratson, now you have me curious. My stock head bolt is 5” long and to install the studs I had to use a block of wood on the exhaust manifold and lever up the cowl about 1” to get the stud installed. My curiosity is if in later model years, the engine was dropped an inch or so, maybe for the 6-speed transmission. If you would make a measurement on your truck from the front edge of the cowl to the bottom of the valve cover, I would be appreciative. I had planned to install a six speed if I add more power to my truck.

 

when are you tapping your head Tyler? let me know if you need help/or a gopher(go get me this!)

 

Hey bent valves
I would love to but I sold it over a year ago now. I can measure the 12v for you if you like? It seems to me the 12v studs are even longer on some of them?
I'm not to sure on the later years either as my 24v was a 98.5 auto
As I said I don't remember the lengths of the studs just that it wasn't a big deal (no prying or cutting) to get the stock HBs out or to put the studs in.
I even pulled the studs out and put the stock bolts in before I sold it (in record time I might add ) Its odd that there is that much difference between trucks?

 

Will I'm gonna type up a paper real quick and then I'm headed to justin and eric's to start working on it tonight. Justin is finishing his up as we speak.

 

I dunno what a plug tap is..........but if you read the case in the picture it says it is a #3 Bottom.........Its a Dormer. not exactly china brand. So I dunno.

 

A plug tap has a longer taper on the end to make tapping easier versus a bottom tap which has a shorter taper on the end to get more threads in a blind hole.
Joe

 

that makes good clean sense. I didn't know there was a bottom plug and a Bottom. This one just says #3 bottoming, theres about a thread and a half taper on it. then I guess I've never seen a bottoming tap cause all the #3 bottom taps I've been supplyed by the shops I've worked for are like this.

 

The tap in your picture is a bottom tap. A plug tap has a lot more taper on the end and the angle of the taper is not as steep. There are so many kinds of taps out there it is unreal, one for just about any application you can imagine.
Joe

 

Another idea when working in the rear cowl area; instead of cutting insulation away is to tape it with aluminum furnance tape. Now when you remove the valve cover, you won't get grit in the valve galley area, can slide the valve cover on the tape, and still retain the insulation.
Studs were a major pain in the rear. I personally wouldn't want to try to tap with the head on.

 

I just use an old head bolt to clean out the hole. I would use the lube that comes with the studs. I think that ARP states that you can torque them to 90ft*lbs (I might be off, its been three years). Clean, clean and re-clean your block surface. Check to see if your block is true or flat. Did you shave off any head material? I would torque the head-up and let it sit over night. Re-torque in the morning to the same torque. Warm-up the engine and then re-torque. Drive for 50-200miles, then re-torque. Then go every month and do a re-torque. After about 4-6 months it should need a re-torque. The gasket will keep changing and the re-torque will make sure that its tight. The stud shouldn't move during the re-torque. If it does tighten up the stud first, then the bolt.