I have an issue with high egts on the setup in my sig. I am trying to narrow down the problem and figure out what I need to buy to rectify my problem. What happens is the truck doesnt really boost hard until I hit around 2000 rpms, which by then the egts have crawled up there and really shoot up to 1400-1600 if I dont let out of the throttle by the time I hit 36 psi of boost. I read about people doing a boost leak check but I dont know what to do so if someone could tell me what I need to do that would be great. I was also thinking about taking out my intercooler for cleaning and pressure test to see if its leaking somewhere but what kind of shop does that type test? Also if there are no boost leaks, I am considering going with a compound setup from industrial injection to compliment my phatshaft 62/65/14, or maybe a snow performance MPG MAX kit but Im not sure which would be the better option, or maybe should I get both? All input on the matter would be greatly appreciated. Thanks.

 

does anyone know anything about pressure testing the boost system or compound turbos?

 

Here is a group of test fixtures. You get the correct size, put it on the boost hose system per instructions and apply LOW pressure air to search for leaks.

http://www.frozenboost.com/index.php...332c87566a760e

 

Go to walmart and get you a big bottle of bubbles. Take and clean off all the rubber boost boots. Take and dribble some of the bubbles on the boots front and back and watch for bubbles with the truck running of course. Solved my problem.. just my .02 cents

 

With the engine idling in place you can't make enough boost to detect a leak.

My boost tester:
4" pipe and cap tapped with 1/4" ports and 4" OD X 4" ID rubber sewer line coupler from Home Depot.
Then you can break out the soapy water.

 

Hey Bill, I like your pressure tester, I can make one of those. Could you break it down barney style (step by step) for those of us who have never performed a pressure test before, pointing out key areas to observe and apply soapy water to. Thank you so much.

 

They're pretty straight forward to make. You need a 4-6" piece of 4" PVC, 4"PVC cap (make sure it's the flat top type), 4" rubber tube, scew type tire valve. All the PVC stuff can be bought at your local hardware store, the valve can be picked up at the tire shop.
Glue the cap to the piece of PVC. drill an offset hole for the tire valve and install.
To use it I put the rubber piece of the turbo intake and wedge the PVC in with it out far enough that it's hitting the alternator. This will help to keep it from blowing off. I shoot a little air in at a time and check with a tire pressure gauge. Don't put much more than 10psi in. If you do you'll find out why.

 

Only things to add to what 95ram said:
The hose clamp rubber drain pipe connector is 4"IDx4"OD, $7 at Home Depot.
Wrap some baling wire over the top of the tester and around the back of your turbo before pressurizing.
Cheap insurance against the tester taking off like a missile.