I LOVE the way it pulls, and HATE the way it tows....
#17
Originally posted by 600 Megawatts
Humm, very interesting. Thanks for the replies guys. The first thing I am gonna do is a basic front end linkage check. I will jack er up this weekend and pull, tug, kick etc. and see if anything is obviously awry. Then I think I will try to snug up the sector a bit in the steering box and see about that. Then if its the same, I will fabricate my equivalent of the DSS, which stands for 'Darrin's Steering Stabilizer' for those who asked. AFter that, I would think a tad more toe in could help as well...
CODODGE2500MAN , I was also thinking about a weight dist. hitch and also that sway damper too.........
KP
Humm, very interesting. Thanks for the replies guys. The first thing I am gonna do is a basic front end linkage check. I will jack er up this weekend and pull, tug, kick etc. and see if anything is obviously awry. Then I think I will try to snug up the sector a bit in the steering box and see about that. Then if its the same, I will fabricate my equivalent of the DSS, which stands for 'Darrin's Steering Stabilizer' for those who asked. AFter that, I would think a tad more toe in could help as well...
CODODGE2500MAN , I was also thinking about a weight dist. hitch and also that sway damper too.........
KP
#18
Originally posted by infidel
KP, what happens first thing when the fruit gets to the packing shed is the truck and trailer is driven though a drench wash that pumps around 2000 gallons per minute of recirculating fungicide (DPA) though the bins before they go into storage. This fungicide eats the steel on the trailer and stains everything brown including about a half mile of the highway leading away from the dump from dripping trailers.
Gets the soot off but gives you even more reason to wash your apples.
KP, what happens first thing when the fruit gets to the packing shed is the truck and trailer is driven though a drench wash that pumps around 2000 gallons per minute of recirculating fungicide (DPA) though the bins before they go into storage. This fungicide eats the steel on the trailer and stains everything brown including about a half mile of the highway leading away from the dump from dripping trailers.
Gets the soot off but gives you even more reason to wash your apples.
#19
KP, I'm not sure how much reading or tinkering you've done with the front end on Gen II's, but when turning in the screw on top the steering box, don't go more than an 8th to 1/4 turn at a time without taking a test drive...even if it's just around the block. Also, you may have read about the preferred way to check for play in the track bar ball joint...have someone in the truck move the wheel from side to side while you observe the mount. I think some have used a dial gauge to measure the play.
#20
Kev-- As much as the DSS is a great product that every 2nd gen should have, I highly doubt that it will fix your towing wandering.
It's much more likely that it's the POC stock track bar setup. My truck has GREAT steering without the DSS, but with an aftermarket track bar.
Best way to go is to do both-- track bar to tighten up the front end, DSS to keep it that way.
I have the DT Pro Fab track bar, but I think the ThurenFab Setup is equally as good, if not better. The weak links on these aftermarket bars are the brackets, not the actual bars.
jlh
It's much more likely that it's the POC stock track bar setup. My truck has GREAT steering without the DSS, but with an aftermarket track bar.
Best way to go is to do both-- track bar to tighten up the front end, DSS to keep it that way.
I have the DT Pro Fab track bar, but I think the ThurenFab Setup is equally as good, if not better. The weak links on these aftermarket bars are the brackets, not the actual bars.
jlh
#21
Originally posted by darrenG
Organic products go through this, too?
Organic products go through this, too?
Organic growers used to be at the mercy of storage rots but now many are using a hydrogen peroxide dip. This isn't done on the trailer because of the cost of peroxide and it's corrosiveness. For organic a machine grabs the bin and lowers a screen like cover over it to keep the apples from floating out, it then pulls the bin underwater in the peroxide solution. This method seems to work just as well as chemical methods. Without some sort of treatment a very high percentage of fruit would rot. Everyone knows the old "one bad apple spoils the whole bunch."
Organic growers can't use bins that have been used for conventionally grown fruit due to fungicide residues absorbed into the wooden bins. In fact the organic laws now don't allow organic fruit to be run on the same packing lines as conventional to prevent cross contamination. Although not required most organic fruit is even stored in organic only cold storage rooms.
Not to worry much either way as the fruit is washed before being graded, sized and boxed. Most modern packing lines don't use conveyor belts anymore,the whole thing is done with the fruit floating in water with pumps creating a current to move the fruit along.
As for fungicide and truck paint- after the truck pulls though a curtain comes down in front of the trailer to keep the stuff off the truck. The truck and trailer remain stationary, the enclosed device dumping the fungicide moves. After pulling though the drench an army of forklifts have me unloaded in less than two minutes.
Most packing sheds provide a place for the haulers to wash down with water if they want but most folks skip it, need to get back to the orchard for another load.
My 3500 does 10 -12 24k loads a day seven days a week in the three months of peak harvest. Round trip is 46 miles with one major hill to climb, return trip with empty bins.
Sort of cool doing this same course with the same load over and over, really lets you check out what any mod you do does to power and fuel economy.
Best mod ever for cutting down the trip time?
The Scotty Air Induction
#23
I agree with HOHN, my DT track bar is a sweet piece and was a great addition to my steering. Another big thing that helped lock everything in place, and your gonna think I'm nuts, was my ladder bars. My steering wheel actually centered itself and the truck drives better now than it every did before.
#24
While your checking that front.. check those upper and lower ball joints... Just replaced mine.. and checked a few others since and they have play also...
BB... I've never seen this before.... I just had to say something.. Is that red I see..
BB... I've never seen this before.... I just had to say something.. Is that red I see..
#25
Originally posted by CTD NUT
Here ya go : DSS
I have one on my 94 and keep meaning to put one on my 98.5.....all this talk prompted me to get off my a$$ and order one for my 3500. It does work very well and it is quite surprising how much the steering tightens up once the DSS is installed. As SHARPMACHINE mentioned, it is a very worth while mod - every CTD Dodge I have ever checked the sector shaft on has play - the DSS completely eliminates it and also serves as a secondary frame cross member that stops frame flex where the box is mounted.
Here ya go : DSS
I have one on my 94 and keep meaning to put one on my 98.5.....all this talk prompted me to get off my a$$ and order one for my 3500. It does work very well and it is quite surprising how much the steering tightens up once the DSS is installed. As SHARPMACHINE mentioned, it is a very worth while mod - every CTD Dodge I have ever checked the sector shaft on has play - the DSS completely eliminates it and also serves as a secondary frame cross member that stops frame flex where the box is mounted.
#26
Tons of good info here. I allready did the Lukes link and the track bar seems tight last time I checked which was about a month ago... I will check it again...
I have the stock hitch and a solid (not tube) class 5 reciever and ball....
I didnt know about the sector screw adjustment, I was just gonna turn it until I feel some resistance and try that... I will go a 1/4 at a time and test drive..Thnx
Infidel, that is really interesting about the fruit... I had no idea!!
KP
I have the stock hitch and a solid (not tube) class 5 reciever and ball....
I didnt know about the sector screw adjustment, I was just gonna turn it until I feel some resistance and try that... I will go a 1/4 at a time and test drive..Thnx
Infidel, that is really interesting about the fruit... I had no idea!!
KP
#27
The sector shaft pre load set screw is just there to properly pre load the sector shaft and to make sure it maintains proper placement vertically.......it will do nothing to help side to side play or change the lash. tightening it too much will can just cause binding of the sector shaft.
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