MNISB

[quote author=JKE link=board=7;threadid=21272;start=15#msg199819 date=1066849109]
Yeah, need good clutch too. I do not know if anyone makes a stop kit for this tranny and the set up of the stops are critical so you don't bind/overload the gears when shifting and you get it in gear far enough too....not real sure on this tranny...needs investigation.

John
[/quote]

The tranny is a toploader.. No external linkages. I'll look at the parts diagram for a the NV and see. I'm not sure if stops will help or if a place exists to install them. The short throw shifter is nice. But install it after practice and experience. The longer throw is actually easier for a novice shifter since you have more feel and a bit more leverage. Once you get good with the stocker then put in the short throw shifter.

The best way to speed shift is to back of the throttle for just the split second it takes to change gears. I'm sure I'll figure out a way to do this electronically like I did with the car. Only the car when you tap the clutch pedal and I mean just move it a bit a switch is triggered. The switch turns on an ignition cut. By droping ignition on a single cylinder (hops too) per rotation the engine is no longer applying force to accelerate the input shaft. So you can keep the right foot down and just open the clutch switch and not necessarily the clutch. I would still clutch a bit on 2-3 and 1-2 if you even use 1 when hot rodding around. On a diesel I'll need to figure out a way to cut fuel for a split second.

Why do you think autos shift so fast? One of them is that it kicks the throttle closed very breifly during shifts or in a diesels case it defuels for split second to unload the gears to make the change.

That is the best way to do it. Cut fuel no or very little clutch and a short shifter. If you are a very good driver (quick feet) you may pull it off w/o mods but it is tough to get off and back on the skinny pedal that fast. Which is why I'll run a switch to the clutch pedal (if there is'nt and existing one) and keep my right foot down all the way and just unload the trans via the momentary defuel triggered by the switch.

Shifting via using full throttle (no electronic mods) and the clutch is just a good way to kill gears because when you hit the clutch the engine will rev freely then you switch gears and let the clutch back in on a reved up motor.

The no lift to shift coasts the motor if you will even though the pedal is down as long as the switch is on. I think it takes under 1/8th inch to engage my clutch switch. For example, If you leave one gear at 3000rpm you don't want to enter the next at 3000rpm do you? With the fuel cut you reach red in the previous gear tap the clutch an ity bitty bit and stay on the throttle. The fuel cut will hold the engine at say 1000 rpm. You shift and let off the clutch. Bingo WOT at the starting RPM for that gear. Geting the cut right will take some research. Basically deterimining how to cut fuel and how much to maintain the correct bottom RPM for most gears. I have done it to gas engines ignitions. It's a matter of figuring out how to do it to a diesel for defueling.

Hmm... I may have a simple idea. I'll need to look at the service manual but rev the engine at the desired low (cut) rpm and measure the TPS sensor. Make trim a potentiometer to the same output. Use a relay conected to the clutch switch to trigger the relay. The relay switches between actual TPS readings and the dummy. It would also need to have a switch wired in series with the clutch lead on the throttle pedal so it only functions when floored.

I'll have to look into it more but DO expect me to pull off some really cool shYt with the truck.

MNISB

I'm not the only with more faith in the manual than the auto.

http://galebanks.com/sidewinder-gear_system.cfm

y-knot

I don't race, look for trouble, get a kick out of "smoking" someone, or drive after drinking. But....I do enjoy a little fun now and again. No I will not tell you I can kill WRX's or Vett's, but I can hold my own on most cars. And so far, I haven't found a truck I couldn't pull. Stop light to stop light this old 8400lb truck can supprise meany, and the look on there face is worth every penny.

MNISB

I don't street race. I actually race the car on a track. I do like to tweak virtually everything I own and can see my self throwing a photocopy of a time slip to a power stroke driver who bench races too much. I'd say if you can hang with that I'll see you at the track. Like with the car it won't be the fastest ET either but one from a year ago up to 1 sec slower than the current runs.

Now the car vs WRX's and Vettes... Umm yeah plenty of them go in the rearview. Vettes, f-bodys and stangs worse than the others when traction is limited. My 60ft is over before they hook up.

DPG

I'm not in that 55 or 60 years old age bracket yet, but I'm close enough for it not to matter. And I've got a box, and injectors, and the beefed up tranny, etc., etc., etc. I do enjoyed getting on the go pedal every once in a while. What I like even more than racing (which I limit to the track, by the way) is getting that cloud of black smoke properly placed in the windows of the gasser that is tail-gaiting me. ;D

DeWain

DeereDiesel

Ive raced afew strokes on the roll and smoked them all. Raced 2 at the light and they got me off the line but when i hit 3rd i go bye bye. raced 1 duradud doin about 80 and he kept up pretty good till bout 105 and the 4k kit helped on that one. Thing I don't get is how you guys launch from the line. Ive tried it in 3rd in 2wd and just spun out. Tried in 2nd in 4wd and don't shift worth a darn. Just inexperiance I guess

AKDSLDOG

[quote author=Commatoze link=board=7;threadid=21272;start=0#msg199612 date=1066821314]
[quote author=Redneck Headbanger link=board=20;threadid=21272;start=0#msg199549 date=1066794963]
No...he was like 55 or 60 years old. I doubt he even knew what a chip was.
[/quote]

Any other old geezers on here besides myself that take exception to this statement?
[/quote]

:'( GOOD ONE!!!!!!

3:73'S with a 6-speed, yep and auto will eat it off the line but! You should be able to catch up and smile while passing! ;D ;D

KATOOM

Maybe I dont know the real potential of my truck but I havent raced anything yet. Kinda wanted to drive other brands so I know what I'm up against first. I have had a few people try to shove me around on the freeway but I can just pull away. Usually on a hill because not many vehicles can hold their speed like the Cummins can. I will say that I wont launch this truck hard from any stop light since I want it to last but while cruising in third or fourth this tank will flat out accelerate hard. I havent even had the pleasure of someone trying to show me up while pulling a trailer. What gives? Where do you guys live that you get all this action?

Rattletrap1

I know a lot of Mustangs that would eat a 600 hp cummins for lunch. If you're at 60 feet and they're still trying to hook up then they don't know how to drive their car. That's not a test of machinery.

We're talking 3000 lb car vs. 7000 pound truck....they aren't supposed to compete head to head. For every 12 second Cummins there's 100 maybe 1000 12 second Mustangs etc.

As far as I'm concerned...the true test is heavily laden and who tops the grade first against a similar purpose built truck.

my $0.02

StakeMan

[quote author=MNISB link=board=7;threadid=21272;start=30#msg199929 date=1066862558]
I'm not the only with more faith in the manual than the auto.

http://galebanks.com/sidewinder-gear_system.cfm


[/quote]

When Banks came to the truck fest here in Colorado to race they had an auto.

hmmmmm, I wonder why? :

MNISB

Rattletrap1

BTW the CAR with the wicked 60ft.. Has AWD and a manual. 1.5 sec 60 ft is normal. I can hook up in the rain harder than many RWD cars when its dry. I have solved my U-joint (to rear diff) breakage problem and refined my launch technique and switched to a better clutch. Basically it holds as much but has a more gradual bite. So I'm talking a formerly 3100# car... now around 2800# vs what ever a stang weights.

Other than one exception there are very few automatic DSMs under 12 secs and NONE 10 and under except the freak.

There is one car with the same engine and an auto that hauls butt it is a tube frame all out drag car with a powerglide. So the chasis is custom as is the body. It weights about 1000+lbs less than the street cars it looks kinda like. The engine is also mounted longitudinaly as opposed to transversly. A power glide is a two speed transmission with no over drive. Basically with that rear end I think 2nd gear at 55mph is like 3500-4000 rpm or something. Redline is like 10k.

I'm not looking to go quite as all out with the truck as the car. Lots of power yes.. In other words It won't be running under 11secs (or 12 even) or get a full cage like the car.

If I can get even mid to high 13's out of the truck, retain payload, towing and MPG I'll be happy.

As for the sidewinder.

"of course, the transmission is mated to the new Banks Billet Torque Converter. " but the auto is only mentioned in one write up. All others refer to the NV5600

I think they were looking to sell trans parts. I also think that if you look at the current sidewinder page you will see that they have added a dual disk clutch. I think the auto was a temporary experiment.

The salt flat run was on the manual.

Now back to auto vs manual.

I have driven both auto and manual versions of the car I own as well as many other cars and trucks. IMHO I can get alot better performance out of the manual.

I repair and rebuild hvy equipment all day long. I have built many engines, automatic and manual transmissions. When it's all said and done I prefer the manual.

Now when extroid CVT transmisions like what nissan is playing with become big enough for 3500's I'll prefer them.

If you want a dedicated drag only truck and can build the heck out of an auto go for it. But I know for a fact that the manual can handle more power with less fuss, get better milage and do alot of other things better.

48RE

1st: 2.45
2nd: 1.45
3rd: 1.00
4th: 0.69

NV5600

1st: 5.63
2nd: 3.38
3rd: 2.04
4th: 1.39
5th: 1.00
6th: 0.73

I like that low low first gear combined with low range when I leave the pavement. The autos 1st gear sucks for wheelin.
It has more overdrive but good luck getting the lock up tq converter to last pulling a load especially on a moded truck. So for overdrive MPG comparisons also factor in the inherent power drain of things like the pump and other drains in an auto.

Manuals take to exhuast brakes alot better. Just look at the ratios and what you use a truck for. I have driven the autos and there are times when it needs another gear. As in one inbetween two gears. The one you are in is way to low and the next too high. The manual does't feel like that. I am always able to grab a gear that matches the task at hand.


Below 1:1 on an auto there are only 2 gears. On the manual there are 4. I think that says alot about having more gears to chose from. You need to shift more but you can keep the engine in its power band alot more. You also can save alot of fuel by keeping the rpms down and the throttle pedal up.

JKE

Joefarmer - the type that I have experience with are grade 8 bolts and 2 lock nuts mounted on either side of the shift pattern on top of the trans. I think it would take a fair amount of work on the 6er to get this set up...not real sure. Need to look through the floor at the top of it.

MNISB - I hear you on the throttle cut. I used the ignition cut off on the shifter for my gsxr-1000. That is the real way to do it and allows no clutch shifting. Most cannot lift the throttle consistantly and maintain the proper RPMS. Mick Doohan was a freak and did not use ignition cut for shifting the NSR 500 honda. His data logger info showed that he could roll off 1/16 to shift....EVERY time. Very few men can do this.

Now the older v-8's reved slightly slower and I could shift WAO with no problems getting to the limiter. This diesel jumps revs quickly like the bikes. Could be much more difficult to do with the long throw tranny also...like I said, I have not done it yet and have not/ will not race the truck. I think the old days of rodding are coming back though. I am going to practice a little and see how well I can let off consistantly.

Mustangs - there are some very fast stangs in town....low 11's and in the 10's...run at atlanta regularly and if you have been to atlanta drag way, they were most likely there...choose your prey wisely!
I need to find an old beater for back up.....
I think this might start getting fun.

John

JKE

still reading....

come on! a power gluide! That's a given on hard core drags. I guess some of the younger men may not have seen these. and the ones they drag with ain't the same as you will find in gramma's old impala either!

stops and leverage - that is why I stated this really being a mandatory change. You REALLY have to lean on a shorty shifter to get it home quickly. This tranny maybe even worse


The dang 4 to 5 shift on this one will take some studying to get down fast . I could see a car length loss on that one and if you miss, you are done!

This will have to stop. The wife ain't gonna have any of this foolishness!!! ;D

She already gives out the : when I drift it. ;D

StakeMan

MNISB,

I think the reason they don't mention much about the auto is because they only drag raced it once that I know of. The stick is the better choice for speed record work.

It seems to me, that all the fast sticks launch in 3rd.