Which HX40 would you bid on?
#1
Which HX40 would you bid on?
Well, found both of these on ebay?
Which one would you bid on?
Welded gate modified:
http://cgi.ebay.com/ebaymotors/Holse...spagenameZWDVW
Or normal 40 with operational gate off a Ford Medium Duty:
http://cgi.ebay.com/ebaymotors/5-9-C...spagenameZWDVW
Or should I be bidding on this B1 with downpipe:
http://cgi.ebay.com/ebaymotors/Cummi...spagenameZWDVW
Any thoughts, questions, ideas? Just trying to get enough air for a HOT smoky 500 HP.
Which one would you bid on?
Welded gate modified:
http://cgi.ebay.com/ebaymotors/Holse...spagenameZWDVW
Or normal 40 with operational gate off a Ford Medium Duty:
http://cgi.ebay.com/ebaymotors/5-9-C...spagenameZWDVW
Or should I be bidding on this B1 with downpipe:
http://cgi.ebay.com/ebaymotors/Cummi...spagenameZWDVW
Any thoughts, questions, ideas? Just trying to get enough air for a HOT smoky 500 HP.
#2
I'd stay away from the one with the welded wastegate. In the first picture link you can see rust all over the turbine blades... that's bad news to me. I think if it were me I'd be going after the B1, but then again the other HX40 is so tempting as well...
#3
I wouldn't bid on either one,save your cash for an s300 variant believe me it's not what you think I have been there done this and I was not impressed with the hx40 very laggy..Other like them though...
#4
Forget the HX-40's!
Good price on the B-1 and they are great...if it's the right model B-1. (there are 4 different ones).
You want the B-1-2 first, but could settle for a KSB-1. Stay away from the KSB-1-2 and the full B-1.... first is too small, second is to big!
Either will add (release) additional 30-40 hp and cool EGT's. Very strong turbos and a nice step up from stock.
RJ
Good price on the B-1 and they are great...if it's the right model B-1. (there are 4 different ones).
You want the B-1-2 first, but could settle for a KSB-1. Stay away from the KSB-1-2 and the full B-1.... first is too small, second is to big!
Either will add (release) additional 30-40 hp and cool EGT's. Very strong turbos and a nice step up from stock.
RJ
#5
Forget the HX-40's!
Good price on the B-1 and they are great...if it's the right model B-1. (there are 4 different ones).
You want the B-1-2 first, but could settle for a KSB-1. Stay away from the KSB-1-2 and the full B-1.... first is too small, second is to big!
Either will add (release) additional 30-40 hp and cool EGT's. Very strong turbos and a nice step up from stock.
RJ
Good price on the B-1 and they are great...if it's the right model B-1. (there are 4 different ones).
You want the B-1-2 first, but could settle for a KSB-1. Stay away from the KSB-1-2 and the full B-1.... first is too small, second is to big!
Either will add (release) additional 30-40 hp and cool EGT's. Very strong turbos and a nice step up from stock.
RJ
EXCEPT...you have a 5spd...if you don't tow, a Full B1 is fun when it lights. Should light around 1800RPM, and pull clear to redline. Very good charger!
If you tow, expect to drop a gear for happy running
Chris
#6
Forget the HX-40's!
Good price on the B-1 and they are great...if it's the right model B-1. (there are 4 different ones).
You want the B-1-2 first, but could settle for a KSB-1. Stay away from the KSB-1-2 and the full B-1.... first is too small, second is to big!
Either will add (release) additional 30-40 hp and cool EGT's. Very strong turbos and a nice step up from stock.
RJ
Good price on the B-1 and they are great...if it's the right model B-1. (there are 4 different ones).
You want the B-1-2 first, but could settle for a KSB-1. Stay away from the KSB-1-2 and the full B-1.... first is too small, second is to big!
Either will add (release) additional 30-40 hp and cool EGT's. Very strong turbos and a nice step up from stock.
RJ
Not too many of us on here that remember all those...
Justin
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#9
To use the 40 you will need to use your WG bracket and reindex the lever for the WG or it will not let you index the oil drain line correctly. If you install a H1C, WH1C, or HX-35 exhaust wheel and shaft into the HX-40 then you can run an 12 or 14cm exhaust housing (or any other housing that will fit a HX-35). The only diff in a 40 and the others is that the exhaust wheel is 5mm larger but the shaft is the same and the comp wheel is 60mm vs. 56mm on a WH1C and HX-35 and 52mm H1C. I did it and it works great. If the turbo has a 6-point nut on the wheel then each part is ballinced by its self ( you dont have to reballance and can swap parts) if its 12-point the wheel and shaft is done as one ( you have to mark the wheel on the shaft and can not swap to other turbos with out reballance). For the $$ I would do the 40. The second 40 would work great. Just remove the exhaust housng remove the wheel and shaft and put the other in and your old housing and it will bolt right in. The 4" outlet on the 40 is no better that the stock one on your turbo becose the outlet size at the wheel is only 5mm bigger than a HX-35 and this way you dont have to change your DP. This set up will give you move air volume and egt with out slower spool. I did all of this on my truck. The nut tq is 150in-lbs. Max 40psi.
#10
To use the 40 you will need to use your WG bracket and reindex the lever for the WG or it will not let you index the oil drain line correctly. If you install a H1C, WH1C, or HX-35 exhaust wheel and shaft into the HX-40 then you can run an 12 or 14cm exhaust housing (or any other housing that will fit a HX-35). The only diff in a 40 and the others is that the exhaust wheel is 5mm larger but the shaft is the same and the comp wheel is 60mm vs. 56mm on a WH1C and HX-35 and 52mm H1C. I did it and it works great. If the turbo has a 6-point nut on the wheel then each part is ballinced by its self ( you dont have to reballance and can swap parts) if its 12-point the wheel and shaft is done as one ( you have to mark the wheel on the shaft and can not swap to other turbos with out reballance). For the $$ I would do the 40. The second 40 would work great. Just remove the exhaust housng remove the wheel and shaft and put the other in and your old housing and it will bolt right in. The 4" outlet on the 40 is no better that the stock one on your turbo becose the outlet size at the wheel is only 5mm bigger than a HX-35 and this way you dont have to change your DP. This set up will give you move air volume and egt with out slower spool. I did all of this on my truck. The nut tq is 150in-lbs. Max 40psi.
#13
The HX-40 is usualy off of the low to mid HP 8.3 "C" (vs. our 5.9 "B") cummins found if equipment and med trucks. It was never used on the Dodge. has a larger compressor side (60mm vs. 56mm HX-35) and has a larger exhaust wheel so it has less drive press and flows more and cooler air at the same psi as the 35. Some think the 40 is stronger and has a larger shaft but they are exactly the same shaft.
#14
The HX-40 is usualy off of the low to mid HP 8.3 "C" (vs. our 5.9 "B") cummins found if equipment and med trucks. It was never used on the Dodge. has a larger compressor side (60mm vs. 56mm HX-35) and has a larger exhaust wheel so it has less drive press and flows more and cooler air at the same psi as the 35. Some think the 40 is stronger and has a larger shaft but they are exactly the same shaft.
Chris
#15
Good to know I guess its good to check each one. All that I have found have 60mm but I may have just got lucky. I got one off of a 300hp 8.3 and it had a 60mm and another off of a 275hp 8.3 with a 60mm. So I guess the best thing to do is take the commpressor housing off and make sure.
P.S. To any one looking for one don't just try to messure just the housing it is a little larger than the wheel.