GCSS

I just installed a rebuilt hx35 turbo on my 97.
It doesn't "GO" like the old one did.
A close visual comparison shows the rod that goes from the vacum dashpot to the wastegate on the old turbo is showing about 1/2" of threads,,,
The reman turbo has about 1" of threads showing.
I am thinking of undoing the C clip and threading the arm in till it is the same (1/2" threads)
Anyone ever monkey with this?
The truck would literally spin the wheels in 3rd,4th, and 5th gears until the clutch started to go away
ANYONE???????

dkenny

if you have a boost gauge..or want to run at your own risk of engine damage, just disconnect pressure line that moves the arm. this will hold the waste gate closed, thereby disabling it.

I've done this on my 99. work great the truck ECM limits the boost to around 22. I'm not sure if the 97 has the same limits

-dkenny

GCSS

well a local puller told me I'd be OK damage-wise.
I am running stock injectors
I should get me a boost gauge......

mtnman81

I have an 01 with hx35 plugged and a disconnected wastegate stock injectors. I can hit 30 psi on my gauge, but I just use my foot as the wastegate. Better fuel economy and better response. I have been running for two years without a problem. When I tow heavy 10000 and above I have to be careful not to go over 30 psi. I use a superchips as a boost fooler. Good luck!

cmed250f

i actually just fooled around with my waste gate on my 99. The truck would make barley 24psi so i cranked the rod like 5 spins in(made it shorter) and now my truck spools a lot faster and will just about peak out my 35psi gauge. I am using a comp box for fooling

GCSS

well I have a lift here and I took the truck up and got right there under the turbo. I took the "C" clip off and was going to take the rod end off, but I am afraid I won't be able to get it back on.
Seems like the metal tab connected to the wastegate will move only one way. And it is such a way that I actually can't make the rod shorter because I won't be able to get it back on. I even put a small vise grip on the part the moves on the wastegate and verified that it will move. There is a lot of spring pressure there. Is there no difference by just disconnecting the vacum hose?
Seems to be the consensus.
If I forego shortening the rod and just disconnect the hose the results are the same........right????????

Clunk

The wastegate needs to be held shut tight on it's seat with spring pressure from inside the wastegate diaphram so adjusting it is a big no-no.

I like being able to adjust my own boost...
Here's some, take yer pick,
http://motors.shop.ebay.com/i.html?_...=&_trksid=m270

dkenny

basically the same idea..but think about what if the boost elbow is closed?
I put a plug in the turbo housing and disconnect the rubber hose to the diaphragm. I can only get to about 22psi, but I don't have a fooler..at least not yet.

Clunk

I see your point.

GCSS

I already have the restricted elbow in place.
That's not the problem.
I am thinking now there may be more than one type of HX35 turbo.

autoxgt

If you already have a boost elbow on the turbo, than just tighten all the way which will essentially be the same as removing the vacuum line from the wastegate. It will force the turbo to the max boost you can produce for the amount of fuel you have.
If you are not building enough boost to compare to the old turbo, I would preassurize the system to make sure you dont have any air leaks in the system.
The wastegate rod length should have been set to match the spring on the wastegate flap. It is set to provide a specific ratio between the spring and the boost preassure on the diaphram in the wastegate acctuator.
Without a boost gauge it will be hard to diagnose the problem. Get a 60psi gauge and and EGT. Both will aid in diagnosing issues.

GCSS

got it.
I will have to get a gauge on there and see what is going on.
Again, I am thinking there may actually be HX35s out there with differences inside that are not visible unless taken apart or in my case tried out.