HX35 vs HX55 (Adkins Lil 55)
#1
Banned
Thread Starter
Join Date: Jan 2005
Location: Baltimore, MD
Posts: 2,997
Likes: 0
Received 0 Likes
on
0 Posts
HX35 vs HX55 (Adkins Lil 55)
well i will post the pics as soon as they are approved in my gallery.
but i will say this, after finding a minor boost leak at the air horn because the tech who did my VP44 swap at the dealer left the old paper gasket on the intake heater and then put a new soft metal type gasket on there as well. i took it apart last night and clean it all off, put a new gasket on with a thin bead of the high temp copper RTV sealant and re-torqued it. suprisingly it didnt help spool up one bit. i really think its now just a matter of the huge turbo with a 16cm housing. a smarty will help but getting used to driving it has been the best help. i can get it to take off pretty quick and lag isnt an issue if i shift it early and dont let it run out past 2700rpms. it will spool around 2000-2100rpms if i keep the rpms in the right range. im finally starting to like this thing now that im used to it.
but i will say this, after finding a minor boost leak at the air horn because the tech who did my VP44 swap at the dealer left the old paper gasket on the intake heater and then put a new soft metal type gasket on there as well. i took it apart last night and clean it all off, put a new gasket on with a thin bead of the high temp copper RTV sealant and re-torqued it. suprisingly it didnt help spool up one bit. i really think its now just a matter of the huge turbo with a 16cm housing. a smarty will help but getting used to driving it has been the best help. i can get it to take off pretty quick and lag isnt an issue if i shift it early and dont let it run out past 2700rpms. it will spool around 2000-2100rpms if i keep the rpms in the right range. im finally starting to like this thing now that im used to it.
#5
Chapter President
I'm no expert with turbos, but I would think if the exhaust side of the turbo is insulated, it would take less to spool the turbo, which would decrease spool time.
I think of it this way, if you're cruising down the road and say you're exhaust side of you turbo is x degrees uninsulated. It takes heat to spool the charger, so if your exhaust side of the turbo was insulated, cruising down the road with an insulated housing would be x amount hotter than without insulation.
Quicker spool up? I haven't tried it yet, but in my mind it sounds good.
I think of it this way, if you're cruising down the road and say you're exhaust side of you turbo is x degrees uninsulated. It takes heat to spool the charger, so if your exhaust side of the turbo was insulated, cruising down the road with an insulated housing would be x amount hotter than without insulation.
Quicker spool up? I haven't tried it yet, but in my mind it sounds good.
Trending Topics
#8
Banned
Thread Starter
Join Date: Jan 2005
Location: Baltimore, MD
Posts: 2,997
Likes: 0
Received 0 Likes
on
0 Posts
yea sorry bout that...it starts out clean...then when you get into the job more tools and parts come out and you end up with that.
my turbo install involved two socket/wrench sets, impact gun, air rachet, sawzall, band saw, grinder, big hammer, big prybar, drill, 1/8" NPT tap, like 10 different screwdrivers, and god knows what else. but thats what makes working on these things so much fun!
my turbo install involved two socket/wrench sets, impact gun, air rachet, sawzall, band saw, grinder, big hammer, big prybar, drill, 1/8" NPT tap, like 10 different screwdrivers, and god knows what else. but thats what makes working on these things so much fun!
#9
Registered User
Join Date: Aug 2005
Location: fredericksburg, virginia
Posts: 3,465
Likes: 0
Received 0 Likes
on
0 Posts
Originally Posted by Mike D
I wonder if wrapping the exhaust side with an insulator would help? Just a thought.
#10
Registered User
Join Date: Apr 2004
Location: Maine
Posts: 1,117
Likes: 0
Received 0 Likes
on
0 Posts
I think if you were to add the smarty software to the ECM you would be amazed of how much of a difference it would make with spooling your turbo. When i put on my super 40 with a 16cm exhaust housing, it was a super lag pig and i was very dissapointed in it, to the point where i was almost going to switch back to my old turbo. I did a little reading on here and read up on the MAD ECM and i was able to test one out. After installing it and seeing the huge difference it made, i purchased and have not looked back since. The 40 spools like my old turbo did and there is virtually no lag time at all. If you get a chance try out the smarty you will be all
#11
Mike D and Phatboy you are both 100% correct on the insulation !!!!!
getblown5.9, the reason it helps is that the turbine of the turbo is a heat engine. It converts the heat energy contained in the exhaust gasses into shaft work. Why give up any heat prior to the turbine where it can do its conversion.
KP
getblown5.9, the reason it helps is that the turbine of the turbo is a heat engine. It converts the heat energy contained in the exhaust gasses into shaft work. Why give up any heat prior to the turbine where it can do its conversion.
KP
#12
Just correct in theory 600 Megawatts...
Ive owned high performance forced induction cars since before I had my license and if I havent learned much ive learned somthing about wraps,YOU SIMPLY DO NOT DO THEM.It causes exhaust's to crack and turbo bearings to cook themselves.The theory is sound but the practical app isnt.At least not on any vehicle that drives the road.
Ive owned high performance forced induction cars since before I had my license and if I havent learned much ive learned somthing about wraps,YOU SIMPLY DO NOT DO THEM.It causes exhaust's to crack and turbo bearings to cook themselves.The theory is sound but the practical app isnt.At least not on any vehicle that drives the road.
#13
Registered User
Makes sense cmnscrzy! My reason for UNWRAPING mine was kind of the same... lower EGT's. It made a difference. I had wrapped it, the compressor and the downpipe to lower in-cab noise. Was more of a noise blanket than heat tape. It worked till EGT's became more of a concern than having a normal conversation in the cab. Priorities
RJ
RJ
#14
cmnscrzy, you will have a very hard time finding any large diesel generator, or marine diesel engine that does NOT have the housing and manifold fully insulated. And now lots of new commercial OTR engines, both Cats and Cummins are delivered fully insulated. As for the manifolds cracking, they do that just fine on their own unwrapped. And there are some very strong arguments that wrapping actually reduces the chance of cracking since the dominant mode of thermal cracking is rapid cooling; the insulation allows the manifold to cool more slowly. And cooking bearings??? The issue is not cooking, but cokeing of the oil and its the reason why you idle down before you shut her down right after running hard. I don’t mean to argue with you, but I have to totally disagree with what you have stated.
RJ as far your EGT's, what happened to you is that your indicated EGT's, as measured inside the exhaust manifold increased because you were holding the heat in the manifold, which is exactly what you want. Remember high EGT's by themselves are not the issue, we use the EGT as a rough indicator to determine when things are too hot INSIDE the CYLINDER. We are concerned about the piston overheating, nothing else. Your indicated EGT’s went up, but the temps did not increase in the combustion chamber or cylinder, it only stayed hotter once it was in the manifold. This is a very common misconception, and the reason a lot of people unwrap. Most times there is an INDICATED increase of 100F in the thermocouple when you insulate. What most people do is note exactly how high there EGT’s got on a certain pull. Then after they insulate they pull that same hill and (assuming the weather is about the same) note the difference between the two readings and add that amount to what was previously considered their limit.
Anyway, like I said, dont want to argue, but I think a lot of the bad info saying not to insulate the manifold and turbo is wivestale. And sorry, didnt mean to hijack the thread either.
KP
RJ as far your EGT's, what happened to you is that your indicated EGT's, as measured inside the exhaust manifold increased because you were holding the heat in the manifold, which is exactly what you want. Remember high EGT's by themselves are not the issue, we use the EGT as a rough indicator to determine when things are too hot INSIDE the CYLINDER. We are concerned about the piston overheating, nothing else. Your indicated EGT’s went up, but the temps did not increase in the combustion chamber or cylinder, it only stayed hotter once it was in the manifold. This is a very common misconception, and the reason a lot of people unwrap. Most times there is an INDICATED increase of 100F in the thermocouple when you insulate. What most people do is note exactly how high there EGT’s got on a certain pull. Then after they insulate they pull that same hill and (assuming the weather is about the same) note the difference between the two readings and add that amount to what was previously considered their limit.
Anyway, like I said, dont want to argue, but I think a lot of the bad info saying not to insulate the manifold and turbo is wivestale. And sorry, didnt mean to hijack the thread either.
KP
#15
Ive worked on commercial generators for years and my brother drives a big rig Volvo with a 3406E Cat engine,never seen one wrapped.Youre reasoning is sound,unfortunately some of us live in the real world and have BTDT long ago.And dont you think a marine engine is gonna wear out its turbo awfully quick with a wet rag wrapped around it?You must have never been in the hold of a boat because they are not only damp but most of the time are under 6" of water.Like I said,real world.