HX35 modification
#1
Registered User
Thread Starter
Join Date: Jan 2004
Location: Texas
Posts: 1,677
Likes: 0
Received 0 Likes
on
0 Posts
HX35 modification
Anybody have detailed specific instructions on how to modify the HX35 turbo? I thought I read something about milling out the turbo to allow all six cylinders to flow and increase efficiency of this turbo. Thanks.
#2
Registered User
Join Date: Aug 2005
Location: Minnesota area/Fargo
Posts: 204
Likes: 0
Received 0 Likes
on
0 Posts
You can drill out the divider in the exhuast housing to allow it to wastegate all six cylinders and not just the rear three, also a few people take and port out the stock exhaust housing to get some better flow out of it, do some searches to see what you find. Here is some pics of my housing that I drilled out. Tim.
#3
Registered User
Originally Posted by Txwelder
Anybody have detailed specific instructions on how to modify the HX35 turbo? I thought I read something about milling out the turbo to allow all six cylinders to flow and increase efficiency of this turbo. Thanks.
ported turbine housing:
https://www.dieseltruckresource.com/...=porting+turbo
drilled through divider:
https://www.dieseltruckresource.com/...threadid=57304
40 mm internal wastegate:
http://www.cumminsforum.com/forum/showthread.php?t=1854
#7
Registered User
Thread Starter
Join Date: Jan 2004
Location: Texas
Posts: 1,677
Likes: 0
Received 0 Likes
on
0 Posts
Do I have to take the turbo apart to do this? I saw where people have said to drill through the wastegate hole but Im not tracking on that one because it is so small. How would you get a 13/16" drill bit through there? If I do take it apart what needs to be done to ensure proper re-assembly of the turbo? Just looking for step by step instructions I guess. Thanks for anything you have.
Trending Topics
#8
Registered User
Join Date: Apr 2003
Location: Cummins Technical Center, IN
Posts: 6,564
Likes: 0
Received 6 Likes
on
5 Posts
I didn't take mine apart at all. I carved on it with the die grinder, then just vac'd the shavings out with the shop-vac.
15K miles later and no problems at all. It's a good idea to "port match" the housing to the manifold and the manifold to the exhaust port on the head. You don't want the flow to enounter a lip from a mismatch-- if anything, you want things EXPANDING as you go downstream..
jh
15K miles later and no problems at all. It's a good idea to "port match" the housing to the manifold and the manifold to the exhaust port on the head. You don't want the flow to enounter a lip from a mismatch-- if anything, you want things EXPANDING as you go downstream..
jh
#9
Registered User
Join Date: Nov 2002
Location: Central Missouri
Posts: 71
Likes: 0
Received 0 Likes
on
0 Posts
Originally Posted by Txwelder
Thanks for the info. What are the noticeable improvements from this modification?
#10
Registered User
Join Date: Apr 2003
Location: Cummins Technical Center, IN
Posts: 6,564
Likes: 0
Received 6 Likes
on
5 Posts
The biggest reason is to prevent turbo overspeeding. The factory setup only vents 3 of 6 cylinders, and a severely overfueled truck can push the turbo to the moon (explosion) on the 3 cylinders that aren't wastegated.
The next reason is correcting factory flaws. The overall precision with which the head, manifold, and turbo are matched at the mating points is TERRIBLE. Some carving here can eliminate mismatches that disturb flow and restrict it.
jh
The next reason is correcting factory flaws. The overall precision with which the head, manifold, and turbo are matched at the mating points is TERRIBLE. Some carving here can eliminate mismatches that disturb flow and restrict it.
jh
#11
Registered User
Join Date: Aug 2005
Location: Minnesota area/Fargo
Posts: 204
Likes: 0
Received 0 Likes
on
0 Posts
Originally Posted by HOHN
It's a good idea to "port match" the housing to the manifold and the manifold to the exhaust port on the head. You don't want the flow to enounter a lip from a mismatch-- if anything, you want things EXPANDING as you go downstream..
jh
jh
AFTER,
#12
Registered User
Thread Starter
Join Date: Jan 2004
Location: Texas
Posts: 1,677
Likes: 0
Received 0 Likes
on
0 Posts
So if I can get the exhaust housing on the mill and just completely remove the center divider then that would be better than just drilling the hole from the wastegate port? Then port match everything and put it all back together? Does this mod allow you to achieve more boost out of the HX35 or does boost go down a bit but the turbo runs more efficiently?
#13
Registered User
Join Date: Apr 2003
Location: Cummins Technical Center, IN
Posts: 6,564
Likes: 0
Received 6 Likes
on
5 Posts
You don't need to remove the divider, just notch it so there's a 3/4 sq in or so.
Of there's about a Quarter's worth of surface area joining the two sides (i.e. removed from divider), then you've done enough.
jh
Of there's about a Quarter's worth of surface area joining the two sides (i.e. removed from divider), then you've done enough.
jh
#14
Registered User
Ive already seen the photos for this setup and im understanding that it will better flow exhaust and gate all six cylinders instead, so Im gettin this, that the complete removal is not needed,
But wouldnt it be more efficient to just remove the whole area instead of the 3/4 square inch? if i wanna remove just the 3/4 square, can i cut it at the center of the lip with a dremel or something?
THanks guys!
Reason im askin, is twins are comin up and fast...
Rick
Thread
Thread Starter
Forum
Replies
Last Post
turbodiesel_ram
Performance and Accessories 2nd gen only
9
06-24-2003 08:02 AM