This is how the truck should steer
#17
Originally posted by BigBlue
Here's something I've been pondering for a while. Why hasn't somebody welded the stud inside the track bar, bolted it to the frame, and then welded the track bar to the frame? Seems to me that that would solve any and all movement problems. Or is the track bar supposed to allow some movement?
Here's something I've been pondering for a while. Why hasn't somebody welded the stud inside the track bar, bolted it to the frame, and then welded the track bar to the frame? Seems to me that that would solve any and all movement problems. Or is the track bar supposed to allow some movement?
#19
Oh. I didn't know exactly how the track bar worked and what it was designed to do other than keep the axle centered in the truck. But now that I think about what you pointed out, it wouldn't work that way. Thanks for clearing it up.
#20
CODODGE2500MAN, there should be a screw with a lock nut on top of the box. Loosen the lock nut and turn the screw in till you get near zero play, not binding. Tighten the nut. Do this with the steering box on the truck! Probably about 1/4 to 1/2 turn. Maybe more if you have a lot of miles. Be sure that the steering wheel is centered before you do this or you could crack the case. If that doesn't work, give 4 wheel parts a call about the dual steering stabilizers.
#21
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Joined: May 2003
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From: The 951-Flatbill center of the universe
You guys are missing the root cuase of most of the front end problems.
The Luke's link is a great band aid, but the reason why the track bar ball joint goes south is because the bushing in the ball joint wears. You can tighten it up with the LL, but eventually it'll wear out again. Sooner or later, the track bar is shot 'cause the bushing is just wore out.
I did this....http://www.thurenfabrication.com/trackbar.html Completely rebuildable. Rock solid.
I also did the same adjustment BigBlue is talking about, it's the over-center adjustment. There is also a bearing pre-load adjustment that will tighten things up as well, it involves taking off the lock ring near where the steering wheel shaft goes in, and tightening the bearing cap. It's a PITA to do with the box on the truck. After doing these adjustments about 4-5 times, I reached the point of diminishing returns. Just replaced the box with a PSC unit. I also went to cross-over steering...http://www.thurenfabrication.com/crossover.html
What a difference it made getting rid of the crappy stock Y-link tie rod setup.
Tracks perfectly straight now, no wobble, no vibration, no wander, and no steering stabilizer. Steering is tighter than on my wife's brand new Durango
The Luke's link is a great band aid, but the reason why the track bar ball joint goes south is because the bushing in the ball joint wears. You can tighten it up with the LL, but eventually it'll wear out again. Sooner or later, the track bar is shot 'cause the bushing is just wore out.
I did this....http://www.thurenfabrication.com/trackbar.html Completely rebuildable. Rock solid.
I also did the same adjustment BigBlue is talking about, it's the over-center adjustment. There is also a bearing pre-load adjustment that will tighten things up as well, it involves taking off the lock ring near where the steering wheel shaft goes in, and tightening the bearing cap. It's a PITA to do with the box on the truck. After doing these adjustments about 4-5 times, I reached the point of diminishing returns. Just replaced the box with a PSC unit. I also went to cross-over steering...http://www.thurenfabrication.com/crossover.html
What a difference it made getting rid of the crappy stock Y-link tie rod setup.
Tracks perfectly straight now, no wobble, no vibration, no wander, and no steering stabilizer. Steering is tighter than on my wife's brand new Durango
#23
Isnt there guys on pavementsucks.com that welded the other end of their trac bar to the frame?
Also anybody know where you can get a complete poly bushing kit for our trucks just to tighten things up?
And lastly anybody using the steering stabilizer from solidsteel I think makes it? Its a bracket that goes on the bottom of the truck and has a bearing in it that the steering shaft goes through I think. You guys know what I am talking about?
Thanks
-jared
Also anybody know where you can get a complete poly bushing kit for our trucks just to tighten things up?
And lastly anybody using the steering stabilizer from solidsteel I think makes it? Its a bracket that goes on the bottom of the truck and has a bearing in it that the steering shaft goes through I think. You guys know what I am talking about?
Thanks
-jared
#24
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Joined: May 2003
Posts: 1,515
Likes: 0
From: The 951-Flatbill center of the universe
The guys on pavementsucks.com are talking about welding the various track bar frame brackets to the frame. Only sure way to keep them from moving.
Been a long while since I had any stock parts on my front suspension, but if I remember correctly, the bushings are all molded in rubber. If you can find a bushing to match the ID of the control arms and track bar, you'd still have to cut the old bushings out. Standard poly is really too soft to use in the track bar anyhow, you need something with a lot higher durometer like a delrin or nylon/poly hybrid. The problem with the factory track bar is the ball joint on the frame end, not the bushing on the axle end.
I run a ThurenFab track bar that has eliminated any problem I would expect to have with the track bar, and it costs less than any options except the Luke's Link.
Works better than anything out there. Don Thuren also has a track bar for stock height trucks that doesn't require welding.
The steering brace is called a DSS, Piers sells them and everybody runs them (including me).
Been a long while since I had any stock parts on my front suspension, but if I remember correctly, the bushings are all molded in rubber. If you can find a bushing to match the ID of the control arms and track bar, you'd still have to cut the old bushings out. Standard poly is really too soft to use in the track bar anyhow, you need something with a lot higher durometer like a delrin or nylon/poly hybrid. The problem with the factory track bar is the ball joint on the frame end, not the bushing on the axle end.
I run a ThurenFab track bar that has eliminated any problem I would expect to have with the track bar, and it costs less than any options except the Luke's Link.
Works better than anything out there. Don Thuren also has a track bar for stock height trucks that doesn't require welding.
The steering brace is called a DSS, Piers sells them and everybody runs them (including me).
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