how do you bleed a fuel pressure gauge?
#1
how do you bleed a fuel pressure gauge?
I am putting gauges in my truck. All Dipricol optix. From reading on this site I have gathered up , a line to go from the fuel pressure tap in the side of my injection pump, all the brass adapters, a needle valve , the dipricol isolator and a nylon line into the cab. I am using a three gauge A pillar mount. The instructions are very sparse for the isolator. It just says to add fluid til no more bubbles come out. How do I do that with the whole set up in the truck. Which end do I bleed from and how picky will it be as to getting every tiny bubble out of the line, and what fluid does everyone use?
Also as an aside, I hooked up my boost gauge and it makes a buzzing sound when the boost comes on strong, much more so when its cold, but its there all the time under boost. Is this normal?
I did search for this in the furums, but could not find anything on the actual process for bleeding the lines or which fluid to use.
Thanks
Also as an aside, I hooked up my boost gauge and it makes a buzzing sound when the boost comes on strong, much more so when its cold, but its there all the time under boost. Is this normal?
I did search for this in the furums, but could not find anything on the actual process for bleeding the lines or which fluid to use.
Thanks
#2
If i recall correctly: The fluid is antifreeze/water or redy to use antifreeze, you tilt the isolator until it's cab-side up and fill it like that- fill the line with a syringe from the inside of the cab and attach to the isolator, attach line to the gauge. Small bubbles won't hurt the accuracy of the gauge because of the volume that can be displaced by the isolator's diaphragm.
For your boost gauge buzz- look for lose fittings by using an air nozzle and pressurizing the system from where you get your boost. If it buzzes you know it's a leak.
HTH
AlpineRAM
For your boost gauge buzz- look for lose fittings by using an air nozzle and pressurizing the system from where you get your boost. If it buzzes you know it's a leak.
HTH
AlpineRAM
#4
hook he guage line to the isolator and put the other end into a cup of anti-freeze.
Slowly pump the isolator diaphram with a pencil (eraser end) until the line is full of anti-freeze, then crimp the end until you install it into the cab and connect to guage.
Ps it is easier to do the priming on a bench before installing into the truck.
scotte
Slowly pump the isolator diaphram with a pencil (eraser end) until the line is full of anti-freeze, then crimp the end until you install it into the cab and connect to guage.
Ps it is easier to do the priming on a bench before installing into the truck.
scotte
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#8
just fire it up,have never had to bleed mine. I would also use copper line instead of nylon tubing if you go without the isolater and definantely use a neddle valve for fuel shut off(just in case).
#9
Copper line is a BAD idea. Way too much vibration from the engine and will likely rupture long before flexible line. DOT brake line will work just fine. While the needle valve aslo acts as a shut off its primary pusrpose is to dampen the pressure pulses from the VP-44 and lift pump.
No need to bleed the line.
No need to bleed the line.
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