how clean?
#1
how clean?
well here are some pictures of an 89 bottom end that i'm working on cleaning the deck up on.
my plan is to swap this bottom end into my truck, getting rid of my 53 block. i will be putting an oringed head and studs on this bottom end before it goes into the truck. it will be much easier to do all the work outside the truck.
anyways how much cleaner should the deck be??? the cross hatching looks great at 191k, and the motor ran great when it was pulled so i'm just going to put all new gaskets in it and run it.
also any reccomendations for getting the rust out of the coolant passages?
my plan is to swap this bottom end into my truck, getting rid of my 53 block. i will be putting an oringed head and studs on this bottom end before it goes into the truck. it will be much easier to do all the work outside the truck.
anyways how much cleaner should the deck be??? the cross hatching looks great at 191k, and the motor ran great when it was pulled so i'm just going to put all new gaskets in it and run it.
also any reccomendations for getting the rust out of the coolant passages?
#2
I don't know enough about diesels yet to offer good advice but it looks like you might have deposits/ridges at the top of the cylinders that you may wish to remove/clean up and I don't know how much bearings and rings are but since you're torn down that far I can't imagine not finishing up for a fresh engine...JMHO
#4
I would run a long flat board across you deck. You'll will see right away if its true. I bet it isn't. I would try that and run a small 2in buffer wheel. Scuff and scuff. Make sure everything is roughed up good. You want the head and deck rough and true enough to put a good bite into the your head gasket. How you planning on torquing up your head bolts? Was that rust in one of the cylinders? How much material is located on the top of your cylinder?
#6
Since it is out of the truck IMO it would be worth it to have it decked. And just as Mike said you want the surface to be rough, 150-160 grit wet/dry sandpaper is as fine as you could ever need.
I used some radiator flush that was really strong and it removed all of the rust from my entire cooling system after the truck was all back together. It took like 3-4 complete fillup and then rinse-outs to get the water to come out as clean as it was going in. After it was satisfactory I just filled it up with 50/50 and there isn't a hint of rust left in the system now
I used some radiator flush that was really strong and it removed all of the rust from my entire cooling system after the truck was all back together. It took like 3-4 complete fillup and then rinse-outs to get the water to come out as clean as it was going in. After it was satisfactory I just filled it up with 50/50 and there isn't a hint of rust left in the system now
#7
I would stay away from high speed wheels with scotchbrite pads. I have seen guys take out decks fast with them. Where you are not on a flat rate or anything and time is not of the essence, get some rectangular scotchbrite pads and by hand you can bring that deck to a shine. Just spray some brake clean on the pad as you go and it will clean that deck up nice. I agree that you want to make sure the deck is flat or you are going to blow head gaskets. You will also want to make sure all the bolt holes are clean and free of debris when you are done.
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#9
I would tear it down to bare block, and deck it. I would also o-ring the block so you can run any head.
I woud only have the machine finish on th block. It dos not need or will benefit from added tooth.
Dave
I woud only have the machine finish on th block. It dos not need or will benefit from added tooth.
Dave
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