hot pipe for twins??
#17
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Location: Morganton, nc
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Here's all I've got right now. I'll get some closer when I go back to retorque the studs.
The second flange on the spacer is angled down 18* or so to give some clearance above the top turbo. It's all pretty tight. That's a 47mm turbonetics racegate and 14cm housing as well.
The second flange on the spacer is angled down 18* or so to give some clearance above the top turbo. It's all pretty tight. That's a 47mm turbonetics racegate and 14cm housing as well.
#18
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Location: Oak Hills CA- Elizabeth City NC
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It looks good Be sure you brace your cold pipe somehow if you are going to run those rubber elbows ya don't want the cold pipe blowing off at a bad time.
#19
I run a PER HX 40 as a primary and a massaged HT3B secondary with a 3.87" ID, stainless elbow compressed to fit the turbo adapter flange. You want the secondary hot pipe as short as you can live with and still get everything to fit. You want as much heat as you can get to the secondary turbo drive.
I did install the ATS manifold upside down to fit the HX40 on top, then fabbed the elbow to the HT3B after I determined where it would best fit with as short a run as possible.
I ended up wrapping my ATS, the hot side of the HX40, and the secondary hot pipe and the hot side of the HT3B with thermal wrap for headers, and that picked up 80 horses on the rear wheel dyno over the ceramic coating I had earlier. As much heat as you can get is critical in the twin turbo installations, that cannot be stressed enough!
I did install the ATS manifold upside down to fit the HX40 on top, then fabbed the elbow to the HT3B after I determined where it would best fit with as short a run as possible.
I ended up wrapping my ATS, the hot side of the HX40, and the secondary hot pipe and the hot side of the HT3B with thermal wrap for headers, and that picked up 80 horses on the rear wheel dyno over the ceramic coating I had earlier. As much heat as you can get is critical in the twin turbo installations, that cannot be stressed enough!
#20
Here is the hot pipe we made. Weld in flange V-bands to the S300 turbine and then drives an S480-T4 below. Wastegate ports in and out for twin gating. The plate between the manifold and secondary turbo feeds the first port in the hot pipe. The second port feeds the primary gate and feeds into the downpipe. The pipe is 3/8" throughout, a little thicker near the gate ports and bottom flange.
#21
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I do plan on getting rid of those eventually and changing the cold side up a bit, but I tried keeping everything as short as possible and that worked well. All of the cold side tubing has beads on the ends too.
#22
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Location: High Point and Boone, North Carolina
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Props to carfichris on a heckuva good looking hot pipe. We just got done building a set of twins using an HX-35-12/HT3B-26 and the hot pipe we used came from mcmaster-carr, just had the invoice out earlier tonight. Part # we used was 4981T18 if Im reading correctly. Small radius - 4.5" schedule 80 pipe, 3" pipe ended up 3.5" OD. Worked well for our application and was less than $30. For the flanges we were fortunate enough to have a friend that was good with a milling machine and a bandsaw.
#24
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I think schedule 40 would be fine, we just chose to use sch 80 the way our flanges mounted. We used some allen head bolts and recessed them flush in the HX-35 backing plate, so we had to remove a little material from the outside of the pipe itself.
#26
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I would use sch 10. The thicker pipe makes everything pretty riggid. The thinner material will allow everything to flex and helps to reduce vibration. Also you need more heat to weld up the thicker material. I just used exhaust tubing on mine, and its still holding fine. It even reduced my truck vibration levels from the PDR twins that I had before.
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