SmokinFive9 4x4

I ordered my Holley Blue fuel pump today, should be in tommorrow and i plan on putting it on right away. I miss my truck! My questions are these. Is there anyone that makes a block off plate for the stock lift pump hole? and I haven't taken it apart, but how about the fuel heater? Any holes that need plugged in the block with it's removal?

Any other things I should know about installing the pump? Warnings, advice, anything's welcome.

Thanks, Ian.

BigBlue

Are you just replacing the lift pump or doing a whole new system? I did this on my roommates truck and all we did was remove the stock lift pump (left the bracket). We then got 11' of 3/8" ID rubber fuel hose (THANKS ALPINERAM!) with 2-3/8" NPT barbed fittings, some hose clamps, and a 12x1.5mm 90* weber fitting (I think that's the right size) for the fuel filter. We slipped one end of the new fuel hose on to the tank, ran it to the holley (the holley uses the 3/8" fittings), ran that to the weber fitting into the stock fuel filter assembly. We kept the stock line from the filter to the VP (we need to change this) and he sees 15 psi at idle and 10 at WOT with an edge comp with the wire pierced.

AlpineRAM

Glad to hear it works BigBlue- could you post a total $$$ for this "system" - including the small parts?
To get more psi at WOT without raising idle pressure you can play with the spring and the shims in the holley blue a good bit. - The less shims behind the spring the less drop of WOT pressure so you'll have to find just the right spring for it.
My holley blue came with an external pressure regulator for carburated engines. Still pondering some tricky use of that and a reservoir to dampen the pulses in the fuel system.

AlpineRAM

BigBlue

The cost for the rebuild kit for the pump (my roommate is using an old Holley Black of mine), the fuel hose, fittings, and hose clamps, was about $50-60.

SmokinFive9 4x4

Well, replaced the stock lift pump, pretty sure it kicked out for some reason. It came off the original engine in my truck so it has 260,000 on it. Plus whatever amount of miles I have on the rebuild, I believe somewhere around 12k. I've already put new lines on it, so I just put the pump inline beside the tank. I don't have a pressure guage so not sure what pressure I'm getting, then again I have a P7100, 12v, so I don't think pressure is as critical as the on the VP's. I'm going to get a guage, just so I can monitor it, but trying to get it running right again. First I had trouble with the pickup, then the pump, I wasn't getting barely any pressure at the filter when I tested it. Now those two are taken care of, and it drives fine up to half throttle, then starts missing and falls on it's face. It's sucking air somewhere, and with the tester i got 15psi when it was idling at the filter, and checked all the lines for leaks. None. I found when I had the tank out that the connector on the tank is loose,,,not very, but enough to raise suspicion in my mind that it may be sucking air. I'll grab a new one tommorrow and try it, but I spent all my patience for tonight. I didn't take the mech lift pump off, left it where it was until I get a block off plate.

Cummins4Life

Why not just get a new mechanical pump and replace the one that is on there?

I really dont think that Holley Blue is going to supply enough volume for your engine. Your pressure needs to go up with RPM but with an electric pump i'll only get drawn down with increased demand?

I've been wrong before though, maybe I'm reading this wrong.

AlpineRAM

Smokin59- definitely do not try to replace your mechanical lift pump with a holley blue.
To find out if you have an air problem take some transparent hose and put it between the fuel filter and the IP- making an upward loop., so you'll see whether there are bubbles.

HTH

AlpineRAM

SmokinFive9 4x4

Well, how much pressure is needed on the 12v's at WOT? Or GPH? I know for a fact there's air getting in, hence the reason for the new fuel lines. I became tired of the thumb pump after i about gave myself a blister, just figured an electric would be easier to maintain. This all started when I repaired a piece of rusted line about 4 inches long,,,it hasn't run right since. I don't get it. I thought it was the pickup, which was part of the problem, but that's fixed, I've redone all the lines to the filter, rechecked the lines, used blacklight dye, cannot find one single leak and still it somehow is getting air. The fuel's low but not any lower than I've run it before without the slightest problem. The one piece I reused was the banjo fitting on the filter and the connector on the fuel tank, which is what seems to be slightly loose, so I got a new one today, I'll mess with it tommorrow.
Anyways, back to the Holley. Would it hurt if I just kept it as an aux pump and still kept the mechanical one? I just want to figure this thing out, it's gettin rather frustrating. I thank you all for the advice.

Patrick Campbell

Big Blue,

Where is the pump located now then exactly?

I am interested in replacing the lift pump with a Carter black and mounting it aft of the engine...

Any problem running stainless 3/8" lines instead of rubber? What kind of line runs from the lift pump to the VP?

I was thinking also of running a good filter before the Carter pump... anyone know what the stock filters are rated at in terms of microns?

BigBlue

The pump is located on the inside of the frame rail right next to the transmission crossmember. I don't see any problem running stainless vs. rubber. We left the stock line from the filter to the VP (we need to change it though cause it's causing a nice restriction). I wouldn't worry about putting an inline filter in. Just one more restriction in the system. Don't try to make this to complicated. Keep it simple.

AlpineRAM

The cause for going rubber in my case was to dampen pressure spikes. These pressure spikes that hammer the checkball through it's seat on the stock LP will also act on the regulator and the mechanical parts of any other pump you use. Now there are 2 ways to avoid problems with that IMHO- either overengineer all parts until they'll stand the pressure spikes or get rid of the pressure spikes. A filter before the LP ain't bad at all IMHO, as long as you have enough flow.
(You can't build much pressure difference on the suction side of the LP, so a restrictive filter will be a disadvantage)

AlpineRAM

TireHauler04

Smokin59: I just lost another Holley Blue pump the other day..that makes for #1 Holley at 20k miles...and #2 also died at 20k miles....i would take it that piece of junk back to the gasser store you bought it from man, just being honest.

Patrick Campbell

So if I ran something like this.... (#6120):

http://www.greasel.com/racorfilters/...-flowchart.jpg

Could I ditch the stock filter setup entirely? Just go straight from the Tank -> filter -> pump -> VP44? Except these don't have a way to prime the system (or do they?) There are some with an electrical priming pump built in. I could also use this injection with the stock filter I guess? Just looking to filter pre-pump because I have heard this will help them last longer.

HOdiesel

Do you mean my Holley blue is junk? Darn, I put in a lift pump that I could fix on the side of the road if needed. I think the Stock pump is Junk, I can't repair it ! I really enjoy my Holley Blue. When I look at my FP gauge it is always at 15 PSI. It does go up to 17 PSI when I work the engine hard by towing a trailer up a long grades. I never see less than 14 PSI is WOT. Is this bad??????????

I have 10K miles on the pump, I guess I have 10K miles to go . Some how I think it will last much longer than that. I'll let everbody know when the pump fails and what I did to get it going again, when that happens. I'm in no need to cross my fingers.......