mstordahl

My goal with this truck is to get 500hp and 1000lb.ft out of it. Being that I have the auto though, I imagine that I should get that done before I do anything else. Already have the boost, pyro and trans temp, fuel psi soon. What is it going to take to get the auto to hold this power?

http://www.4wheeloffroad.com/brandpa...ram/index.html
This article is what got me really thinking about this, and I have heard that it is easier to get more powerout of an ETC than an ETH.

Whats your opinions?

RowJ

I'm right there...with my 02 ETC. (see signature).
I have dynoed 3 different times between 520hp/1122 tq and what is listed below...depending on air temps.

There are other ways to get to 500 hp...this is one.
However you decide to get there....do yourself...and your truck a favor. Do the tranny first!

RJ

Gotlift01

500HP is pretty easy to achieve, that is if you have a big enough wallet!! The auto will need to be BEEFED up a lot, the stock ones don't hold up for crap once you start tweekin'!! There are a couple different options on trannies, just depends on how much you want to spend and how hard you plan to abuse it. With 500HP I would expect to shell out $4,000 or more easily.

As far as getting the 500HP mark, get a new Turbo, set of good injectors, fueling box, intake, exhaust, and if you want to get crazy throw on some propane!!

CTD_Neil

Interesting article. I'm on the same path as that truck. I am only running 100hp injectors though. That 500hp seems high though. I am only expecting around 400hp/900tq. I dont see anything else that would give their truck more except for the additional 50 hp from their injectors. I have a dyno day in October, we'll see then.

Eskimo

For 500hp, I'd say a full tranny build, TC, and a billet input shaft.

I've only had first hand experience with 2 transmission companies, ATS & DTT. You can see what's in the truck now. 'Nuff said.

cumminsdriver635

Well. You will need a triple disc converter, a good valve body, and some other internal tranny work like clutches/seals/apply levers etc, but it would probably be just as cheap to buy a built tranny from Goerend. And if you want to sled pull/hardcore race, then billet shafts are definatley needed. Just call them all and see what you think is the best route to go.

Eric

ridofpwrstroke

HO's respond better to injectors, SO respond better to fueling box's. I got 508 hp with my sig. You should be real close or better with the SO

mcoleman

My profile will also tell you what is holding my over 500hp combo. And has for 50,000 miles now. Including towing a horse trailer every weekend. I'm pretty much identical to RJ except for a bigger charger.

RowJ

Not for long!!

Sorry Mike...too much testosterone made me say it.
What's your best time like with newest setup?

RJ

mcoleman

The only time I've been able to get to the track with it was the night we had 83 degrees and 96% humidity at 9:00pm. I still ran a 13.05 leaving at 15 psi. The track wasn't holding very much earlier in the night as far as launch boost goes so I had been creeping back up on the harder 25 psi launches. I would say based on what the density altitude was that I've got an easy 12.80 in there on a decent night with a 25 pound launch. Maybe even a little better than that. I've got my nitrous system ready to go now. I'm just waiting on my new cam, studs and oringed/ported head to be installed before I hit the spray and the Mach 6.5s. I'm waiting on Floor It to get some of the tranny jobs out of the way before we spend 3 or 4 days on my truck again. Makes me ancy like a kid at Christmas.

mstordahl

What does the DTT 89% mean? How efficient the convertor is? Seems like most like the DTT as well. Ill be checking them out for sure. And by the way, I dont race or beat the hell out of my truck, I give it some heavy throttle every once in a while, and tow reasonably heavy (13,000lbs) so I just want something that will stand up to that. Not racing.

On a side note, I hate how loose the stock convertor is. It would be about right for a powerstroke and the higher rpm power, but I hate how just to get going from a stoplight, or to accelerate it just revs up high and really makes me seem to have to put my foot into it. When it hits lockup in OD, its great, holds lockup and with just a little throttle it pulls hard. Im assuming that the aftermarket convertors can be a lot better than this?

Thanks,
Matt

cumminsdriver635

Aftermarket converters are MUCH better. I cant wait to get my goerend single disc in. A good aftermarket converter will only dropt he rpm's 100 or so when it lock sup because it is already really efficient in the fluid coupling(unlocked)

Eric

RowJ

DTT has several different converters. The 89% is actually their towing converter...what they use to call their "cattle hauler" set up! It's so strong and shifts so smoothly...many racers use it.

Call around and see who you get the best "warm fuzzy" from. DTT is excellent and in your area +/- (just north of the border). http://www.dieseltrans.com/
Know nothing bad about Goerand Bros either.


Just MHO, but I would concentrate on those two.

Good Luck!

RJ

ruquik

Also try Suncoast for transmissions and TC. They have The best equipment making their TC's, I know I went and Watched mine get built in Florida. Top notch machining. My trans was built and warrentied for 36 months for 500hp/1000 lbsft. With the trans/temp guage, Mag DD pan, Installation (on 4x4) and everything else including 6% sales tax, the total was $3750. Call 1-800-868-0053 and ask for Joe. They even installed my new rear main seal for free!!

WildBill

I always recommend buying from someone close to home. Also you should call and talk to the different vendors and see who gives you a good feeling. BD and PDR are also in your neck of the woods and can build what you need, just so you know.