Anyone running a high tech turbo upgrade for the HX35(STAGE III UPGRADE COMPRESSOR HOUSING AND 60mm High Flow WHEEL - 95-02 DODGE/CUMMINS
$198.00) (housing and wheel only)(NEW 14CM UPGRADE wastegated TURBINE HOUSING FOR 88-2002 DODGE/CUMMINS
$385.00)? How much machineing is required? is it a good upgrade for the 150 jammers and comp box?

 

Yes, great turbo upgrade for the money.
Have them do the modifying.

 

ive got 130 horse sticks and a comp box. they said that a htb2 would be the best. so im on back order

 

Looked at a HTB2 this weekend. Wouldnt mind having one of those.

 

My name just came up on the waiting list for an HTB2-64/14

Too bad I don't have the $$$ right now...

 

Im also insterested in this mod. Only thing is the downtime of the truck, and its not exactly cheap to do. Could probably buy a piers hx35, then sell mine for $300 for the same $.

Eric

 

Your WH1C is probably not worth $300 IMHO.

A Stage III from HTT will flow more air than a PDR 35.

 

Anyone with access to a machine shop can do the machine work. It's easy my dad did mine 60K miles ago.. I did not balance it.. You would be amazed that its still together. you must totally disassemble the turbo to machine it. Then reassemble and torque ect. When torquing make sure your torque wrench will work correctly with left hand threads.. Yes, I broke my shaft and had to rob a shaft out of a old H1C. Still running after all that with no balancing..(knock on wood)

 

It's a pretty easy mod to do if you have access to a lathe or a machine shop (I took mine to work and asked a tool maker to modify it - after watching him do one, I did another for a friend on my own). If your not changing the exhaust housing, then you can even just remove the front and center section of the turbo as a unit. Remove the compressor housing and unbolt the compressor wheel. You'll have to machine the counterbore that is part of the center section a little larger (say .125" dia larger). I covered the oil passages with tape and mounted the center section in a large lathe off of the outer flange diameter. I found that's the easiest as it's concentric thus allowing me to use a 6 jaw chuck. Install the new wheel & torque to spec. Put on the new housing and re-install. I found running it at 44psi max boost worked best for me. 12cm housing gives instant boost and keeps my EGTs in decent check. It would also make a great upper on a set of twins... Good luck - It's easy.

 

I ran one for several years. it was one of the first 6 blade 60mm's vs the earlier 8 blade setup.

i had a 16cm exhaust housing on it and could peg 42 psi on just a 180 pump and #10 plate. even with an 18.5 things were still toasty but it definately helped things quite a bit. good mod for the money but if i had had the options that are available now i would have gone slightly bigger.


with your mods im thinkin HTB2 or something in that vacinity especially if you tow much

 

Here is a link for the Do-it-yourselfer (is yourselfer a word?)

 

I had to replace my WH1C for the HX35 i have now that i paid $300 for. I would like to keep a stock turbo though, so if this helps much then later down the road, it may be an option.

Eric

 

I have one of those, kinda want a 64/14 now but thinking I juast build a set of twins with the HTB2 on top and the HT3B on bottom. Can get the HT3B for a really good price.

dan

 

Send the WH1C in to HTT and have them do it up as a Stage IV (62 mm). Or order the Stage III and D-I-Y, no machining needed on the WH1C up to 60 mm.

 

Well, the shaft is bent now, and it needs a piece on the inside that keeps the shaft from moving back and forth, along with another piece or 2. Im sure i could send it to them, and have them fix it, but it would probably cost me a few hundred. If i knew it would lower EGT's enough(200* or so), then i would probably do it.

Eric