argve

I have a slight problem with my truck - the egt's can get to extreme levels quick/fast/in a hurry - especially while towing. I'm looking to lower them, currently I can peg out a 1500° pyro on command and boost is what looks like 32psi (suspect it might actually be pegging that as well). I say it might be pegging it because on other diesels that I have owned when the wg opened on them I would see a 0.5 lb drop in boost pressure when I cracked the whip on her - I don't see this action on this truck (truck is still new to me for the most part), the boost needle just slips right on up to just a hair past 30 and sits there rock solid - no quiver. hummm... Pyro is mounted in the exhaust manifold, not sure where the boost reading is taken from but suspect it's after the cooler on the intake manifold (will have to check that). It's a Westach dual pyro/boost gauge.

I know that I should not run her this hard (pyro readings) so I don't hang out there let me tell you, it's just a short burst when I'm playing in traffic kind of thing.

Now when I hook up to the TT (31ft with slide 9200~9500lbs - depends on how wife packs) I can blow past 1000° very very easy. Pulls good though while doing so.

She's running the stock exhaust (minus muffler and feline friend) still has resonator so for the most part it's straight piped. I do have the BHAF but no heat shield (have downloaded plans from here but haven't gotten off fat butt yet to cut and build it - looking for round-tuit).

It has what I think is a WH1C - clamped and bolted construction (Fritz's website information). Have looked at the sticker on it and while trying to stand on my head I believe that is what it says - or something to that effect.

I got to reading the post here recently about compressor mapping and such (way over my head - but understand the concept of too much boost is not a good thing).

I wondering how I can lower my exhaust temps for while I'm towing. I don't even hardly watch the gauge while I'm running empty because if I was to hang out at temps above 1200° I would be going too fast to even look at the guage in the first place - but towing I'm having to keep one eye on the gauge and the other on the road - me no like that...

I know the previous owner (whom did all the mods except for the BHAF) said he went to a larger turbine housing and larger diameter exhaust with no help on the EGT's then took them back off and returned them to Pier's for a refund - don't know - this is what he told me... So far I have no reason to doubt him, he seemed to be a pretty straight shooter.

So help a numb skull/newbie out and guide me to cooler temps. Before you all go off the deep end remember I have a family to feed as well as the truck

mikelr

Just a shot in the dark..but you may want to change your pyro thermocoupler, maybe it's not telling the true temp. I cant believe a larger turbine housing and exhaust did nothing for the EGT's

smokindog

There's no easy way to break this to you. I'm just going to come out and say it... You need to part with at least $300 for a 4" exhaust. That is what the Rips aluminized is going for. If you want one that will last a lot longer be prepared to drop over $1000 for the stainless variety.

Here are a couple links to get you headed in the right direction...

http://www.atsdiesel.com/products/pr...ne-exhaust.asp

http://www.protintnw.com/sa_dodge-exh.htm

Either way you go the EGT's will come down with 4" exhaust!

got...DIESEL?

Bingo!! that #10 is probably full forward too..... Those 131's and 160 sticks may be small, but they can still heat an engine up quick with that 3" exhaust, especially if you're pulling a tall gear. That AFC kit is giving the EGT's a head start by overfueling down low if they are not tuned right, and anyone who pulls a couple of good mods off a truck because EGT's didn't go down probably didn't have the best grasp on tuning that 12 banger. A turbine housing and larger exhaust couldn't have done anything BUT lower EGT's......

Make sure that pac brake is opening all the way back up too. I've heard far and few instances of the butterfly hanging, causing the same problem.

Do you have a 30 or 60 lb gauge in there?? Sounds like maybe a 30?? Did he plug the wastegate, or did he put a boost controller/elbow on it. 30 psi is getting close to the end of the map for that turbo. If you're pegging a 30 lb gauge, the turbo might actually be overspeeding, and making hot air, which does nothing for egt's except RAISE THEM!!

You'll lose a 100* or so by timing it. Get rid of the 12.5 and put her at 16. Them GSK's and the little pump will like the extra timing, and your mileage will go up.

As far as lowering the temps for towing....throw a valet switch in there...that keep the temps down Kidding....you wouldn't like how it towed either. I would check the plate position, and back it up some if it's all the way. Full forward is rarely best power, and you might lose some EGT's in the process of picking up a few ponies by backing it off .010 or .015.

Keep us posted, and good luck

argve

New tcouple installed by me, when I purchased the truck (late Oct 04) the old one was not working so called up Geno's and got a new one for the Westach system. Made for sure I did not gorilla grip it into place - she's just snug or atleast that was how I put it in, now Dave's Diesel was the last one to be in there but I trust they did not crush it. Action has been the same before and after they worked on it.

argve

Smokindog,

I like those prices - wonder how the fit is on the Rip Rock setup. Some times it's better to spend a little more and be better off in the long run (install for example). I'll have to do some searching on them to see what others have to say. - Stainless is out for two reasons 1st is truck already 10 years old and has 184k miles on the ticker. 2nd is I only plan on keeping her for 4 years and will be moving on to next truck.

Got Diesel,

Thanks for the information I'll see if I can find a how to guide on the pump for setting/changing the plate position. I know when I was speaking with previous owner last he said he was pretty sure that it's slid forward a little (commented that he could not remember fully) - which probably means it's slammed all the way.

Pac brake does stick from time to time but typically it has been fully shut - only when the temps drop has it been doing it. Only caught it once where it was about half way. But I have actuated it many many times under hood and when it pulls open she has opened all the way - during troubleshooting of why it was sticking in the first place. But I'll keep an eye on it. Might just turn it off completely and verify before a run that she's open.

Timing - PO said it was set to 16.5, but Dave's Diesel has since been in there with a full head R&R so I don't know what they set it to - might have to give Rick a call and see.

Valet switch I like that...

wannadiesel

If you're seeing 1500 degrees the exhaust won't be enough to keep things cool, especially while towing. It's time for a bigger turbo. A hybrid or an HX-40 should keep things under control until you get 370's.

argve

Well I got into her this afternoon and made some adjustments.

She has a boost control elbow that I have seen mention of, that was pounded all the way down, took quite a few turns to get the peak boost to move. So my peak boost was anybodies guess - now currently set to 28psi.

Star Wheel - seen mention on here about that some guys have turned it so far that you could barely see the teeth on the wheel - same here. So backed that off quite a bit and she still fogs the street but not a bad or as quickly.

Peak EGT's are a tad lower still can tickle 1500° but it takes a bit longer to get there - will be adjusting the star wheel a little more.

Power - Butt-o-meter says no loss in power - so that's a good sign.

Did not touch the fuel plate as I did not want to make too many adjustments at once. So will get back in there in the morning to take a peak at it's placement and correct if need be. Now correct me if I'm wrong the PROPER place for the plate is to be slide all the BACK (towards rear of truck) - correct???

WildBill

All the way back would give you the least amount of power, all the way forward the most, if it's forward all the way start backing it off