Help w/fp gage after FASS
#1
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Registered User
Joined: Sep 2005
Posts: 54
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From: Near White River, Flippin, AR
Help w/fp gage after FASS
Help! After slugging around N.Arkansas for 6 weeks looking for parts to get my
new Isspro fp gauge on line, I had 8 psi @ idle. Shut her down and ordered a
FASS. FASS bypasses old lp AND filter canister and replaces banjo at the vp44, W/no means to test there. I prefer to take reading near as the vp as possible. Should I rig a "T" in-line (the 3/8" fuel line) near the vp and relocate
my needle valve to the isolator?
Also, if I remove the old filter canister will I get a dash light or code from the
wif sensor? Just thinking it might clean up the old engine compartment with that big clunk removed.
Any help appreciated.
new Isspro fp gauge on line, I had 8 psi @ idle. Shut her down and ordered a
FASS. FASS bypasses old lp AND filter canister and replaces banjo at the vp44, W/no means to test there. I prefer to take reading near as the vp as possible. Should I rig a "T" in-line (the 3/8" fuel line) near the vp and relocate
my needle valve to the isolator?
Also, if I remove the old filter canister will I get a dash light or code from the
wif sensor? Just thinking it might clean up the old engine compartment with that big clunk removed.
Any help appreciated.
#2
I put a "T" in line...but about 12" back from the VP-44. Too close and pulsing from the pump can make it harder to keep your gauge smooth and steady.
I just put the needle valve in line, between the "T" and the gauge.
No worries, mate, about showing codes from removing the Canister or the Lift pump. I do get a dash lit (WIF) when I spray around the FASS at the car wash. Just ignore it....after it drys - no more light.
RJ
I just put the needle valve in line, between the "T" and the gauge.
No worries, mate, about showing codes from removing the Canister or the Lift pump. I do get a dash lit (WIF) when I spray around the FASS at the car wash. Just ignore it....after it drys - no more light.
RJ
#3
I put mine in front at first. You can buy an -6 an fuel pressure adapter from summit that works perfect. I now have it on the fass. The reason no reason. It looks cleaner under the hood without it there and that is what I like. The difference in pressure is so small that it doesnt even matter to me. It is always over 15 psi, and it was when I was reading it in the front too. The electric sender looks nicer on the gauge port of the fass. Thats the only reason honest. If something where to happen to the fuel line, pressure would drop. I took a great deal of time routing the line to look stock and not rub so I feel it is pretty bullet proof.
#5
Thread Starter
Registered User
Joined: Sep 2005
Posts: 54
Likes: 0
From: Near White River, Flippin, AR
Thanks for the input gents, I really appreciate this on-line community of ctd
nuts. Gotta get this whole thing wrapped up soon, going "home" to Texas for
the holidays and need my road hog for that trip.
nuts. Gotta get this whole thing wrapped up soon, going "home" to Texas for
the holidays and need my road hog for that trip.
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