seabee

did you put a cam in it or are you using the stock cam.

Tate

Stock cam. I would've loved to put an F1 cam in at the same time, and I probably would have if I knew that it was gonna go as smooth as it did.

I also bumped the idle up. Seems to have helped the hunting issue, but I'm not sure if its something thats because of the 4k gsk, or if there is infact a tuning problem. Any 12vers care to weigh in on that? I also pushed the plate full forward. Had a time adjusting the gov. arm, as the jam nut was seized to the adjusting screw. Eventually got it after some screwdrivers and vice grips made its way into the picture. Now I'm getting my 43 psi again, and the smoke is a considerably more than a haze, but not close to being a black out yet. So time for more boost.

ratsun

I found I needed to have the springs as loose as possible on my pump when I had the 4k kit in ( I have removed the two smallest springs now and believe I have found happiness) Basically I have them one soft/faint click then 2 hard clicks (last one being very pronounced) I think there will be new improvements in GSK springs in the near future
In my opinion there is no need for the 4k kit unless you need the rpm to reach the end of the track because they fuel slower and you don't make any power past 3k anyway? Your 215 pump will fuel up to 34-3600 with the 3 k kit anyway. Lots to play with compared to the VP huh?
IMO you need to bump the timming up a little also, you should..... be ok @16-17 if your TIP is in check with the stock HG and the big pump.
LMK if you want a link to a post that really tells how it is with the governor springs.

Tate

I'll definitely be bumping the timing up in the future. I just don't want to mess with too much at once. I'll have my solenoid in two weeks and have that sorted out, then I'll start playing more. The 4k srpings came in the pump already. Diesel Dave on here said he's gonna have a spare set of 3k soon, so I may swap them out. I don't need 4000 rpm . . . yet. There will be a cam and valve springs before I start spinning anything that fast. Right now most shifts are at 3k-3200 rpm, and I'm happy with that. Its just a daily driver, so I don't need mega rpm. The VP actually did pretty well, 3300 rpm a couple times, but I don't like pushing it that far. But its so much smoother now, and is more responsive. So far, the only down side is having to pop the hood to kill it. But like I said, that will be fixed up in a couple weeks when I get my time off.

If you have a link to info on the GSKs, hook me up. The more info I can ingest, the better!

BTW, anyone know what kind of amperage goes through the two solenoid circuits? So I can find the right ones.

Lil Dog

The primary start circuit for the solenoid is 70 amp IIRC, the hold circuit is less than 10. All you need is start signal for the "big" relay and then key on power for the other.. Perdy simple..

Philabuster

Is the Smarty still able to correct the tire size in the ECM without seeing the VP44? I guess you won't see a 0216 code anytime soon.

Tate

You bet. I checked the codes, I have a 1689 (no com between ECM and VP), 0122 (APPS voltage low) and a 0602 (normal code for a Smarty). Once I get to a dealer to have my tire size corrected, then I'll pull the Smarty off.

PaulDaisy

Bummer on the Smarty! Its probably not working because they sold you a wrong VP44... Doesn't look right, the lines are on the wrong side. I can send you mine, and take your defective IP off your hands
Please let me know which trash pile you through your Smarty in.
Thanks!
-P
P.S. Looks great! Did you get to keep the 24v sound?

Tate

Figured I'd update this. I have around 4k km on the swap now. Plate is full forward. Other than losing the timing pin plug on the pump and losing a significant amount of oil, and losing 5th gear this week, all is well. I have some smaller leaks to take care of, but nothing urgent. About half throttle gets me to 45 psi and is clean. Any more than that and it starts pouring the smoke. Even with the gutted AFC, I can still drive it smoke free, but it definitely takes vigilance to do so. Runs much smoother than the VP44, spools the turbo better (VP used to bog and then it would light hard, now it lights smoothly), and the shudder I had on a 2nd gear take off (idling it) is gone. I thought it was a clutch issue, but I was wrong. Still have to pop the hood to kill the truck, but having only had 4 days off since I did it, I'm quite happy. Just remember to tighten everything. Thats how I lost my plug, and on my first big trip with it (roughly 20km after I got it running), the linkage vibrated out and I eventually couldn't do 80 km/h on level ground. Atleast that fix was free. The pin and plug was almost $100

ratsun

Glad to hear your switch to the dark side is working out for you.
You might have to open the hood to start and stop it (till you hook up the FS) but its still nice not worrying about any of that electronic stuff taking the big dirt nap on you eh?

J7 Diesel

Where did you get the lines at? Is there some serious fab involved in it? Seen that your head had a notch looked like? Front cover work. I sold a truck that had this setup on it and did not pay much attention I know STUPID but I have a 99 and would love to p-pump it with that new smarty HA HA HA. I bet there are people that would buy that just on someones word of mouth!!!!

Tate

Don't even need to open the hood to start it. The arm that the solenoid is connected to automatically goes to run position, need to press down to kill it. Its definitely nicer than the VP44 truck. I'd still consider getting a 24v truck, but knowing what I know now, a p-pump would be in its future. A 12v would be much cheaper though.

Lines came from Schieds. There is no heavy fab, but there is some light fabbing. If you're handy with a zip cut, you're set. I don't have my welder set up, so if I can't bolt it on, I was SOL. I'm on a shut down at a power plant currently, 7 days a week for the next 4 or 5 weeks yet. Once I finish that, I plan on taking all my pictures from the swap and doing a write up on it. I'm sure it would answer some of the more common questions on this.

turbo dreams

i'm so jealous!! i have been wanting to swap a 12v motor or a p-pump for some time. i would like to find a 12v motor and keep it in the garage and build it then swap it in. if you don't mind me asking, how much money do you have tied up in the swap??

Tate

It would be around $4k CDN. In hindsight, swapping in a 12v would have been around the same money.

PaulDaisy

I can't help but wonder, if selling the 24v and buying a 12v would be the most cost efficient way of getting a p-pump? Unless one was to really love their particular truck, or wanted to have a 24v with a p-pump.
-P