well I went out and got the truck dyno ed this weekend, and tying to find out the beast can do well the results were 332hp/745tq and the clutch slipped some thing fearce. I had two runs on the dyno but I opted to turn every thing off on the 2nd run. not to hurt the clutch any more. I have been told I should look into a south bend clutch double disc but what else is there. for the numbers point of veiw the cutch started slipping about a 1/4 of the way in to the throtle. so it had a lot more to give and I will be adding more hp in the future. I also Tow a 4 horse gooseneck trailer. so being able to tow with it is much better. so thats it what do you use , and a aproxamate price. looking forward to replys cole

 

any one any one??? I guess I just weld the trany input to the flywheel, that should work I always thought stoping was overrated. so what do you guys USE. I have been sugested MU 13-1.25 CON OFE or the MU 13-1.25 CON FE , well

 

I think the FE might be a little grabby when towing, the OFE would be great if you weren't going much higher in power. I went with the DD 3600 12 CB and its awesome!

 

OFE is rated at 450+ hp so that should give you lots of rooms to grow.

OR for triple or quadruple the cost you can have a dual disk and supporting mods and be ready to pull a sled, but really a dd is way more clutch than you need at 350 hp.

 

I would look into the MU 13-1.25 CON OFE, this is an awesome clutch that will give you some growing room. You don't need a DD clutch and the expense is a lot higher than the clutch because you will need a new input shaft.

If I can answer any questions please feel free to phone, 717-557-7060.

Doug Smith

 

I have the same clutch an earlier poster has-the 3600 12 cb. If you plan on increasing the power of the truck, then you can do it one of two ways:

1. Buy an $1100 clutch now, then buy a $2500 setup later.

2. Buy a $2500 setup now, and sleep soundly knowing it WILL NOT slip.



The choice is yours. I took option #2. You might get by with #1 if you don't plan to continue hopping up the truck.

 

This is sound advice.

 

[QUOTE=v8440;1178849]
1. Buy an $1100 clutch now, then buy a $2500 setup later.

2. Buy a $2500 setup now, and sleep soundly knowing it WILL NOT slip.
[QUOTE]

$2500?! You must live in Canada!

I'm in Japan right now (coming home on Saturday) but my clutch started slipping the day before I left. I talked with Peter at Southbend Clutch, and he recommended the Mu 1947 ConOFE. It'll hold to 450HP/1000ft-lbs, so it'll do just fine for me (and you too it seems). I found a place near Seattle where the clutch itself (Mu 1947 ConOFE) is only $700, and the total for the job would be about $1600. I got lucky and found a guy locally that will help me install it for nuthin'.

If you're going to bump up the HP by a lot in the near future, then I would recommend looking at the double disc.

Just my .02.

-SFB

 

No, I live in Alabama. That's about what I paid for the dual disk setup when you include the $500 billet oversized input shaft (required) and the $200 hydraulic upgrade (not required, and I haven't installed it yet). On a notoriously stingy dyno, my truck made 920 ft/lbs. That probably equates to about 1000 ft/lbs on most dynos, especially ones that have a load they can apply to the drum. I'm far from done modifying the engine, so I probably really did need to get the dual disk.

 

Sorry v8440. I was thinking about the single disc Mu 1840 that I was looking at. Also, most of that post was for theFoxMan. He could probably save a ton if he's not going to BOMB (Better Off Modified Baby) it past 450hp anytime soon. Dual disc is an arena I haven't even bought tickets to yet. I probably won't get there for a couple years yet.

-SFB

 

Oh, I see. You might still want to consider the dual disk-a couple of years from now isn't forever. I'm not at the point where I really need a dual disk, but I know it's there when I reach that point.

 

Very good advice. A DD will definitely allow for alot of growing room for a lot more power later down then road.