BDR2500

Well I am looking at liftin my 02 2500 CTD. I was looking at the Fabtech 5.5" lift, or something from SuperLift. Any advice on those brands or other reccommendations? And I was wonderin how high of lift can I go before I need new drive shafts? What else should I bee lookin at, or what else will I need? I have never lifted a truck before. Any advice, ideas, or suggestions would be great. Thanks

cumminsboy

BigBlue should chime in anytime and give you some advice cause I don't know, anyways, good luck. cumminsboy

phox_mulder

I'd recommend Skyjacker 4.5" or Tuff country 5".

4.5" and I am almost needing a new front driveshaft.
Vibrates on the highway and binds a bit offroad.


phox

BigBlue

4.5" skyjacker on mine. 01 Quad Cab Shortbed. I almost need a new front driveshaft as well. Mine doesn't vibrate or bind off road though. I love mine. Rides good, drives good, looks good, and now that the rear axle is installed correctly, it's twice as good as before.

BDR2500

I don't plan on wheelin my truck, just want the height. But I do use my 4wd, so I wouldn't want to go soo high to where I would need new shafts. So would I have any problems with the front drive shaft or rear shaft at 4.5"-5"? Any differences in SuperLift or SkyJacker? Thanks guys

Jambbii

Phox, I have a total of 9" of lift and only under serious flex and usually front tire spin do I see any vibe from my front end.Oh yeah I have stock d shafts all around. The only thing I could see that mine doesnt vibe is that my pinion angle is different. The sj kits are tried and true. I have a 7" on my truck and it has taken a beating. Just my .02cents

phox_mulder

I don't have any experience with Superlift.
Just heard that they are more for show than go.

If you don't take your truck offroad, then it'll probably be ok.

Didn't hear bad thing one about skyjacker, so that's who I chose.

As to the front DS vibe, every truck handles the lift differently,
yours might be one that is just fine with 5" or higher,
I just lucked out and got one that didn't like it.


phox

dodgediesel4x4

4.5" SJ lift on mine. I love it. Since my truck is a LB, I have 2 rear driveshafts and don't need shims under the rear blocks. The front driveshaft doesn't vibrate too much, only under intense highway speeds. I can live w/ it though.

justinp20012500

I would never use Tuff Country

Thier lift kit about killed me. And I am not joking.

I would look at a Dick Cepek, or a fab tech. You need something that will relocate and lengthen the control arms.

BDR2500

Yea, I was lookin at the Fabtech because it has the long arms. But I could always get a SkyJacker 4.5"-5" and just sub out the normal short arms for the 7" kit's long arm set up. And I wanted to run 37s with 4.56s, should be a good combination. Plus I was lookin at gettin some long arms for the rear, like I said. I won't be wheelin my truck, or towin with it. But I will be gettin twins from PDR. Just want a big truck with big power. I was wondering, I have the over load springs in the rear. What will happen to them when the lift goes on? Should I keep the blocks that are on now, or get whole new leaf springs so I don't need blocks? Thanks for the help guys, great advice and info

Cowhand

I don't think the SJ 7" arms will work with the 4.5" kit. The rear frame attachment point on the long arm kit uses a crossmember that supports the transfer case after it's been clocked down. The new crossmember would interfere with the old one, unless your planning on installing the clocking ring to rotate the t-case.

If you don't wheel it and you don't need the articulation, your best bet is to just stick with the SJ 4.5" kit. Long arms will do nothing for you. I run 6" custom coils with the short arms.

Overload springs will stay unless you choose to take them off. If you take them off, you'll need shorter U-bolts. I still have blocks in the rear, but eventually I'll go to a custom spring pack and eliminate the blocks.

I run 37's with stock 4.10 gears, and it runs great.

gsdog1

I had the SJ 4.5" lift on my 1999. Worked great, no need for new shafts for me, and no issues up front with binding or death wobble. This kit replaces all the control arms BTW. I also had the OEM overloads in the rear, and asked that they be left alone. No problems there either. I also got a SJ trac bar put on at the same time.

Seeing as you aren't talking about any wheeling stay away from the flex series and stay with the standard control arms - no heim joints.

FWIW - I ran 35" tires with 3.55 gears and had no complaints.

Last, and perhaps most importantly, I HIGHLY recommend a professional install. I had mine done at 4 Wheel Parts in Indy for around $400 and it was worth every single red cent, period.

Good luck!

Matt

BigBlue

gsdog1, I wouldn't HIGHLY recommend paying someone to install it, but it's definately not for the faint of heart. I installed my own lift and it took 3, 12 hour days with 3 buddy's helping. Would I do it again? Probably. But someone's buying me a keg afterwards.

gsdog1

I should have also mentioned that the $400 included the alignment, and a return trip 10 days later for a check-up. No death wobble - ever, no binding -ever, no return trips for miscellaneous parts, no special tools that I will never use again. Peace of mind from a safety perspective during the install as well as with respect to the finished product was well worth it to me.

I also know that there are plenty of people who do it themselves. I appreciated your posts on your install Blue, 'cause you seemed very honest in what it took to do yours. It ain't for the faint of heart, no doubt! This ain't a simple shock swap.

Matt

BDR2500

I did a lift on my old Jeep, sucked hardcore. 14 hours with 3 guys, the rear went fast. The front is where had problems. I am runnin 35s w/ 3.55s now, I have no complaints. So what tire would look good with a 4.5"? Or just stick with the 35s? Would ladder bars be something to look into? Thanks for the help guys