Heavy duty brakes?
05-30-2004, 06:52 PM
#16
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I just asked the O'Rileys parts guy for "90's GM 1Ton single axle rear brake cylinder" and they came up with the part. They work GREAT! Best 30 bucks I spend on the truck. If you tow a trailer with no brakes you need to do this cheap upgrade. I estimate I have 30% more brakes with much more authority and NO fade.
Thanks for the tips!
Thanks for the tips!
05-30-2004, 07:37 PM
#17
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wheel cylinders
I just bought a set of wheel cylinders from napa 14.00$ each cdn, cheap!
Just need the time to put them in. Thanks for the part #'s Bill
Just need the time to put them in. Thanks for the part #'s Bill
05-30-2004, 08:28 PM
#18
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Hey you Brake Masters,
My 95 will need pads AND Rotors next change (10K or so), Can I update this beast to the newer two peice rotors?
OR is their no benefit to this
My 95 will need pads AND Rotors next change (10K or so), Can I update this beast to the newer two peice rotors?
OR is their no benefit to this
05-31-2004, 12:19 PM
#19
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i know on the older trucks they had a problem with the proportioning vanve,if it is wearing only the front out that is what i would change,i had a 95 that i put 6 sets of front on and never had to replavce the back ones,dodge told me it was my wear pattern,what a joke,i canged the valve and then my brakes started working the way they should of from new,and as far as brakes,i put ceramic pads that are made from wagner and they work great 3 times the wear of of them with out the awefull black brake dust,hope it helps you out
05-31-2004, 12:36 PM
#20
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The EGR upgrade is the best way to go. Myself, I got so fed up with the brakes on my 96 Ram that I went and traded it in for a new 2003 Ram. Now there is a truck with good brakes. It took Dodge awhile to fiqure out that disk brakes all the way around was the way to go.
05-31-2004, 12:37 PM
#21
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Keep your eyes on your rotors with ceramics, they last a long time and make little dust because they wear the rotor out instead.
I personally would rather replace pads than rotors.
I personally would rather replace pads than rotors.
05-31-2004, 05:03 PM
#22
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I've got 4 wheel disc all the way around. With the 33's, they were great. But with 35's now, well, let's just say they are lacking, how's that? I don't really like cross drilled rotors. Seen to many of them crack from severe use. Slotted is fine for me. I think I'm gonna do a set of slotted rotors with some carbon/kevlar pads and SS lines. That should slow it down. I'm also gonna up the size of the rotor and caliper a little if it will fit.
05-31-2004, 10:39 PM
#23
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I just replaced mine with drilled & slotted rotors and some Hawk pads (available from Geno's Garage). Once they broke in (took about 800 miles or so) Holy cow what a difference
I haven't even done wheel cylinders yet, but they were a huge improvement compared to stock (if that is what was on there). The best difference is in wet weather braking. When I get the wheel cylinders on there, then she'll really be nice! The total job cost me just under 200 bucks, becasue I got the rotors off of ebay for a great price. I've been watching them and no cracks (knock on wood).
I haven't even done wheel cylinders yet, but they were a huge improvement compared to stock (if that is what was on there). The best difference is in wet weather braking. When I get the wheel cylinders on there, then she'll really be nice! The total job cost me just under 200 bucks, becasue I got the rotors off of ebay for a great price. I've been watching them and no cracks (knock on wood).
06-06-2004, 09:55 PM
#24
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I put the GM 1 Ton rear wheel cylinders on mine 99 CTD. It is the best $30 bucks I have ever spent on a vehicle. Wow! Can I STOP!No more fading or over use of the front disc brakes. The rears are finally doing their job!
09-10-2004, 10:55 AM
#25
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Originally posted by y-knot
Zeddy,
The info give by all the previous posters was valid and will help improve the brakes, but it still does nothing to address the real problem, that being the stock brakes SUCK. I never really had a brake issue, my pads and shoes were both OEM that came with the truck when ordered. I just thought there has to be a better way, so I set out to educate myself and see what was available for the truck. I called many manufacturers and shops, and came to the conclution that better brakes were very much possible, just they were going to cost more then I thought.
I decided to go with Raybestos for the rotors and calipers. I used their Supper Stop Rotors which were Extreem Duty Rated. These rotors are cross drilled and gas slotted, they have internal vains for improved cooling and are beefier the stock. There calipers are just nice re-manufactured units, there isn't much to a caliper, so they were fine. For the pads and shoes, I liked the EGR units, they are a carbon/kevlar composite and well worth the extra money. Also I decided to go with the larger wheel cylinders in the rear, This is a huge differance, and responsible for a much needed boost in rear brake bias. Another item on my "must change list" was the trucks stock rubber brake lines. My truck was a 97' and since I would have replaced them anyway, I went on and got the EGR stainless steel/kevlar lines. You would not think it, but they give a much hadder pedel, and the braking just feels so much more confident with them, this was a good move. To top the project off I went with the teflon lub and synthetic brake fluid from EGR, all very good stuff.
The whole project went smooth and in no time the brakes were no and the air was bleed. The improvement was instentanious, from the first stab at the brake pedle I could tell this was going to be good. They only got better as they seated themselfes in and the finished product was great brakes that will live. I was very supprised, I thought I could improve the brakes, but had no ideal they would work this well, I am very pleased with the results, and think you would be to. Good luck, and let us know what you went with and how they worked out for you.
Zeddy,
The info give by all the previous posters was valid and will help improve the brakes, but it still does nothing to address the real problem, that being the stock brakes SUCK. I never really had a brake issue, my pads and shoes were both OEM that came with the truck when ordered. I just thought there has to be a better way, so I set out to educate myself and see what was available for the truck. I called many manufacturers and shops, and came to the conclution that better brakes were very much possible, just they were going to cost more then I thought.
I decided to go with Raybestos for the rotors and calipers. I used their Supper Stop Rotors which were Extreem Duty Rated. These rotors are cross drilled and gas slotted, they have internal vains for improved cooling and are beefier the stock. There calipers are just nice re-manufactured units, there isn't much to a caliper, so they were fine. For the pads and shoes, I liked the EGR units, they are a carbon/kevlar composite and well worth the extra money. Also I decided to go with the larger wheel cylinders in the rear, This is a huge differance, and responsible for a much needed boost in rear brake bias. Another item on my "must change list" was the trucks stock rubber brake lines. My truck was a 97' and since I would have replaced them anyway, I went on and got the EGR stainless steel/kevlar lines. You would not think it, but they give a much hadder pedel, and the braking just feels so much more confident with them, this was a good move. To top the project off I went with the teflon lub and synthetic brake fluid from EGR, all very good stuff.
The whole project went smooth and in no time the brakes were no and the air was bleed. The improvement was instentanious, from the first stab at the brake pedle I could tell this was going to be good. They only got better as they seated themselfes in and the finished product was great brakes that will live. I was very supprised, I thought I could improve the brakes, but had no ideal they would work this well, I am very pleased with the results, and think you would be to. Good luck, and let us know what you went with and how they worked out for you.
09-27-2004, 11:11 PM
#26
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While doing the lift, I took a quick peek at the rotors and noticed that the face is real wavy. Not warped, but wavy. My friend who works at o'reillys looked at them and said they may be able to turn them, but since they were turned once, he doubts it (there is a very noticeable lip on them after they were turned the first time). I want better braking but don't want to spend an arm and a leg. The pads are fine, so I'm just looking for new rotors. Should I go with some slotted rotors? Or just stick with stock replacements. I don't tow anything worth nothing but the 35's are taxing the stock system. I think I need new calipers because my inside pad is wearing faster than the outside. Also, how do yall get those 12 point bolts out that hold the caliper bracket on? We almost completely stripped one trying to pull it off the other day.
09-28-2004, 04:35 AM
#27
Registered User
I personally prefer solid stock type rotors. Best price on high quality Brembo rotors here> http://www.tirerack.com/brakes/index.jsp Their prices are so low that it's not worth turning rotors. If their site says they don't have rotors for your application call them, they most likely do have the right ones.
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