Performance and Accessories 2nd gen only Talk about Dodge/Cummins aftermarket products for second generation trucks here. Can include high-performance mods, or general accessories.

Headgasket problems/possible solutions.

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Old 10-25-2007, 07:34 AM
  #16  
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Something was not done correct..... I would pull it apart and have the head decked and grooves re-cut. Install new stainless steel wire with .0010-.0012 protrusion. Check you block deck to ensure it is flat. The I would install a .0020 over 12v marine gasket that has been modified to fit the 24v. Use lots of ARP lube and torque the head in the cummins spec sequence. I start small and work my way up like this.

20-40-60-80-90-100

Start engine and allow to warm to operating temp and then shut down. Allow to cool with hood closed for 2-3 hours and then relube the studs, nuts, and washers and bring the torque up to:

110-120-125

At this point it should be good to go..... I would do a retorque in 30 days back to 125#.

If it is done correct it will hold all the power you can make with a VP.
Old 10-25-2007, 07:43 AM
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What are your drive pressures?? Have to be pretty high...
I'm running 65psi boost and 70psi drive pressure with my twins...

Was the head decked prior to machining?
Did you put a straight edge on the block ot see if it was true?
Old 10-25-2007, 08:29 AM
  #18  
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Jetpilot, I live right around Allentown PA. Is there a shop close that can do what you recommended, if I decide not to do it myself? Also what would a reasonable shop charge to do this and about how much for parts?
Thanks,
Alex
Old 10-25-2007, 09:07 AM
  #19  
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Did you run it at high boost before you warmed the truck up?
Old 10-25-2007, 09:42 AM
  #20  
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Sounds like the head was not properly torqued. My neighbor is running BD Twins wastegated at 65psi Boost on the stock head gasket with 211k miles on it. He has pushed over 70psi but not sure what the dive pressures were! Anyway, your head wether it be O-ringed or Fire ringed should have no problem with 50-60psi of boost!
Old 10-25-2007, 12:37 PM
  #21  
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Originally Posted by JD730
IMPORTANT:
There is a fuel return line at the back of the head, don't forget to unbolt it, its a banjo style fitting.

Leave the alternator on, just unbolt the upper bracket from the head.

Drain and remove hoses and other obvious things, unplug sensors etc...

Unbolt the turbo from the manifold and drop it out of the way.

Pull the fuel lines off as 2 sets of 3 lines. DO NOT take the lines out of the holders. Remove the connector tubes from the head and the injectors.

Pull the intake horn and move the grid heaters out of the way, unbolt the APPS and move that out of the way, fuel filter if its still there gets unbolted from the head.

Remove all the rocker arms and bridges from the valves. Pull the push rods, above the back 2 cylinders there are plastic plugs in the cowling, remove them and the push rods will come out though them.

Remove the nuts and studs.

Pull the head, an engine hoist is almost necessary for this.
Don't think there is anything I would add to that... if you're going to take the head to a machine shop, I'd have them install the new valve springs for you.
Old 10-31-2007, 08:28 AM
  #22  
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i have the same problem but i was running more boost.. how much is it to get a head fire ringed.. Cuz i was planning on just getting new rings if i need them. Im kinda nervous about this whole deal but i dont have the money to send it out..
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