Headbolt torque sequence
#2
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I don't have the numbers in front of me, but you don't need a picture for the sequence. Just start in the middle and sprial out in a circle till you get to the ends of the block. If you want a better clamping use International Compound #2 in the threads. The most stress on the head bolt is the twisting force, the compound eases this stress.
Torque them in three steps and then retorque the final setting. Mark them with a marker or something else and then thighten in sequence 90 degrees or 1/4 turn for the final setting.
Probably someone will come in here and give torque, if not I will look it up later and give it to you. My book is outside in the shop.
A tip though, make sure you have the right head gasket, there are two of them. Make sure the outside water jacket sealing is the same as the original gasket. The later engines use a narrower sealing surface and it will leak. Last year the gasket was changed and many engines leaked, Cummins had to go back and produce the original design. I had to wait two weeks for a gasket that was right for my engine. The problem is at the passenger side of the front of the engine.
Torque them in three steps and then retorque the final setting. Mark them with a marker or something else and then thighten in sequence 90 degrees or 1/4 turn for the final setting.
Probably someone will come in here and give torque, if not I will look it up later and give it to you. My book is outside in the shop.
A tip though, make sure you have the right head gasket, there are two of them. Make sure the outside water jacket sealing is the same as the original gasket. The later engines use a narrower sealing surface and it will leak. Last year the gasket was changed and many engines leaked, Cummins had to go back and produce the original design. I had to wait two weeks for a gasket that was right for my engine. The problem is at the passenger side of the front of the engine.
#3
Thanx for the reply ,please do give me the torque when you have a chance to look in your book.Can you give me the 3 torques to use in the steps.What is that International compund #2 ,do i have to get it at the international dealer. Since mine is a 12v and I think yours is a 24v do I need to make sure on the headgasket .I have gasket number 2053283339 which is the same as the one on scheids site. One more thing once i start the truck do i have to warm it up with no boost ,then retorque all the bolts again.
#4
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Cummins procedure.
Head bolts come in 3 sizes, short regular, long.
Torque ALL bolts to 66 ft-lbs. I prefer to bring torque up in stages of ½ value or 33 ft-lbs., ¾ value or 50 ft-lbs. then full value.
Torque all LONG bolts to 89 ft-lbs. Re-torque all other bolts to 66 ft-lbs., as they will loosen.
Run all bolts an additional 90° rotation.
Head bolts come in 3 sizes, short regular, long.
Torque ALL bolts to 66 ft-lbs. I prefer to bring torque up in stages of ½ value or 33 ft-lbs., ¾ value or 50 ft-lbs. then full value.
Torque all LONG bolts to 89 ft-lbs. Re-torque all other bolts to 66 ft-lbs., as they will loosen.
Run all bolts an additional 90° rotation.
#5
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re-torque
If you use a dial type wrench you will notice final torque pulls around 120-125 ft-lbs.
A re-torque is great after bringing the engine up to temp and then cooling below 100°F.
Downside: I'm still looking for photos I have of a broken bolt on a re-torque. New bolt, too.
A re-torque is great after bringing the engine up to temp and then cooling below 100°F.
Downside: I'm still looking for photos I have of a broken bolt on a re-torque. New bolt, too.
#6
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Re: re-torque
Originally posted by Fueling around
If you use a dial type wrench you will notice final torque pulls around 120-125 ft-lbs.
A re-torque is great after bringing the engine up to temp and then cooling below 100°F.
Downside: I'm still looking for photos I have of a broken bolt on a re-torque. New bolt, too.
If you use a dial type wrench you will notice final torque pulls around 120-125 ft-lbs.
A re-torque is great after bringing the engine up to temp and then cooling below 100°F.
Downside: I'm still looking for photos I have of a broken bolt on a re-torque. New bolt, too.
#7
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Re: Re: re-torque
Originally posted by Haulin_in_Dixie
That is where the compound #2 comes in, it allows the bolt to turn, not twist off. I would torque them right the first time and leave them alone.
That is where the compound #2 comes in, it allows the bolt to turn, not twist off. I would torque them right the first time and leave them alone.
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#8
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Re: Re: Re: re-torque
Originally posted by Fueling around
Basically any lube on the bolts will increase torque 10-30% over wrench value. Engine oil, anti-seeze, ARP lube, etc. Sadly , it will not decrease the chance of a head bolt breaking.
Basically any lube on the bolts will increase torque 10-30% over wrench value. Engine oil, anti-seeze, ARP lube, etc. Sadly , it will not decrease the chance of a head bolt breaking.
#9
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Caught me giving the short answer.
Yes, a lubed thread will decrease torsional shear. It will make elongation worse by over torque.
John Deere mech for many years before going to college. Broke fair share of head bolts.
If you remember the days of metal laminate head gaskets, a re-torque was always required. Many got away with increasing initial torque 20% and skipping re-torque.
When the thermo-print composite gaskets appeared in the 70's, the initial torque went up 10-20% and re-torque was not required.
The Cummins head bolt was from the shop that replaced my head gasket. The break point told me the threads are cut not rolled as in studs.
Yes, a lubed thread will decrease torsional shear. It will make elongation worse by over torque.
John Deere mech for many years before going to college. Broke fair share of head bolts.
If you remember the days of metal laminate head gaskets, a re-torque was always required. Many got away with increasing initial torque 20% and skipping re-torque.
When the thermo-print composite gaskets appeared in the 70's, the initial torque went up 10-20% and re-torque was not required.
The Cummins head bolt was from the shop that replaced my head gasket. The break point told me the threads are cut not rolled as in studs.
#11
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Your call.
Local shop started re-torque after seeing a lot of head gasket failures on BOMBED trucks.
I went to head studs. Re-torque is required.
Local shop started re-torque after seeing a lot of head gasket failures on BOMBED trucks.
I went to head studs. Re-torque is required.
#12
since it has the half turn after the 89 or 66 ,what do you retorque to.Thanx guys for answering all these questions,I need to get the service manual.No time to get one now I need this thing done.
#13
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Re: re-torque
Originally posted by Fueling around
If you use a dial type wrench you will notice final torque pulls around 120-125 ft-lbs.
A re-torque is great after bringing the engine up to temp and then cooling below 100°F.
Downside: I'm still looking for photos I have of a broken bolt on a re-torque. New bolt, too.
If you use a dial type wrench you will notice final torque pulls around 120-125 ft-lbs.
A re-torque is great after bringing the engine up to temp and then cooling below 100°F.
Downside: I'm still looking for photos I have of a broken bolt on a re-torque. New bolt, too.
#14
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Originally posted by Dufrain
since it has the half turn after the 89 or 66 ,what do you retorque to.Thanx guys for answering all these questions,I need to get the service manual.No time to get one now I need this thing done.
since it has the half turn after the 89 or 66 ,what do you retorque to.Thanx guys for answering all these questions,I need to get the service manual.No time to get one now I need this thing done.
Caution, its a quarter turn, not a half turn, big difference there.
#15
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Originally posted by Haulin_in_Dixie
Caution, its a quarter turn, not a half turn, big difference there.
Caution, its a quarter turn, not a half turn, big difference there.
I missed that in his reply.