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Head Work Curiosity

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Old 11-21-2006, 10:43 AM
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Head Work Curiosity

Guys

time so happens to be my mortal enemy right now and i need to have my head worked on here in the near future..

Im running twins right now wastegated at 50 psi, and in all honesty I am surprised that the headgasket and stock studs have held like they did, ive done some runnin on it, but once it spikes to 50 psi, i dont leave it there for more than two seconds on average...

How many hours does the average shop charge for head removal, stud and marine gasket install, and head reinstallation?

I have an idea that its not too tricky to remove the head, but i dont have much time to do it even on weekends...

Any and all help and opinions are appreciated

Thanks!

Rick
Old 11-21-2006, 10:26 PM
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Bump

anyone have any ideas? sorry to be a bother..

rick
Old 11-21-2006, 10:29 PM
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best i can tell from what ive been told from gus, it'll take 3-5 hours to get the head out of there (approx., depending on if you run into any problems) then he told me to take some eather (sp?) and a scotch brite and clean it up and look at it with a maginifying glass. (now this was for a 24v head, prone to cracking. Dunno much about the undervalved guys...)

i think i takes longer for them to recieve the head through the mail than it does to acually do the work to it. That is if its good.

My head is coming off here soon (but not soon enough ) to be send and worked on...

other than that im no help rick. Sorry
Old 11-21-2006, 11:45 PM
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I bet it would be several hundred dollars. Is that all that their gonna do is replace the head gasket?? Might want to do some head work since its already off??
Old 11-22-2006, 01:06 AM
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Your hg should live a long time with a stock hg and studs at 50 psi. Besides that I can have one off and on in under 8 hours and my truck is a real big pain to work on because I have to stand on a ladder
Old 11-22-2006, 01:14 AM
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Unless you're going to 0-ring or do other headwork, why take it off?

ARP stud it. Labor ~4 hrs. with one re-torque same day...valve adjustment, etc.
Old 11-22-2006, 09:20 AM
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Originally Posted by Jambbii
Your hg should live a long time with a stock hg and studs at 50 psi. Besides that I can have one off and on in under 8 hours and my truck is a real big pain to work on because I have to stand on a ladder
yeah

im begining to somewhat see that. My BOV's go off at about 50 psi and i religiously look for coolant leaks on the truck to see if the gasket has gone.. Much to my surprise, it hasnt even budged yet, it was overheating just a tad due to it needing coolant.

Why remove the head? simple, i want a reliable gasket and studs so that I can add more fuel to the truck, 50 psi is fun, but im sure 65-70 psi is even more fun...

Rick
Old 11-22-2006, 12:19 PM
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It took me a year at 70 psi to take out my hg with arp studs and .20 thicker hg and I beat things bad.
Old 11-22-2006, 06:30 PM
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Most shops will charge around 12 hours labor. This will include R&R the head, tap the holes for the studs, and 1 retorque.

Doug
Old 11-22-2006, 09:10 PM
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man, you're getting a deal at 12hrs for R&R, tap and retorque! BTDT!

it will hold up for a while with studs, but be sure to bottom tap. if the head comes off, make sure it goes back on o-ringed.
Old 11-23-2006, 11:49 AM
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Originally Posted by Forrest Nearing
man, you're getting a deal at 12hrs for R&R, tap and retorque! BTDT!

it will hold up for a while with studs, but be sure to bottom tap. if the head comes off, make sure it goes back on o-ringed.
Sounds like it..

Problem is i wouldnt know where to send off the head to get Oringed, I know that Mike at HotRodDiesels can probably do it, but im startin to think its just in my best interest to do one of two things

A) Buy a fully decked out PDR head (keepers retainers, oringed and sprung) then some ARP's and a .10 over gasket and just pay the local shop to install the head

B) Drive the truck to Mike at Hotroddiesels have him stud it, gasket it and o ring it and just suck up the 12-14 hours in labor they might charge (which might be a bit cheaper than PDR head anyways)

IN either case, i know this is gonna be expensive so doin the work myself might be another option dependin on the tax return season eitherways i gotta hit that head before i even clunk more fuel into it

Hey u wanna play, u gotta pay...true in every hobby

Thanks alot guys!

Rick
Old 11-23-2006, 04:01 PM
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If you want additional head options you can look here: http://www.performancedieselwarehouse.com/1394003.html
Old 11-23-2006, 04:56 PM
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Rick, shipping might be a pain, but I've got a head at RAYMAC (the one that came off my 98) We could have him clean it up, o-ring it, etc. You pay the machine work bill and shipping. Then you've got the head right there. No down time. Then, just get your head back to me whenever you get a chance.

Just another option to consider. If you've got someone reputable who can do the machine work and the install for a fair price, I'd go that route.

But if you've got a weekend, a friend or two, and some BBC, you should be alright. taking your time making sure you do everything right, firing it up, letting it warm up w/ cardboard in front of the radiator, shut it down, go to bed, the next day get up, do a re-torque and re-set the valves. It'll be a LONG first day, but you can get it done
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