Has anyone ever tried to replace their stock head bolts on a motor with a perfectly good head gasket by removing them and replacing them one at a time? Do you think this is possible without disturbing the seal?
Also would replacing head bolts with studs and running a standard head gasket increase the holding capacity of the gasket enough to support a significant amount more boost?(assuming that you were to torque them beyond stock settings)

 

Yes, you can replace them one at a time. No problem. And yes the potential to hold more cylinder pressure is enhanced.

Don~

 

How much more torque should be applied to the studs over the factory spec?

 

It depends on the brand of stud. ARP is 120 ft lbs for a stock gasket. IMO of course. Just about the same as a stock bolt would go in

Don~

 

Is that 120 with motor oil or with the arp slickum? I torqued mine to 100 even with the arp grease, they call for 96, right?

 

Yes, they call for 96 and that is good, but they will take 120 with no troubles. Using the ARP slickum 96 ft lbs is 75% yeild. 122 in theory is 100%. I never exceed 125.

Don~

 

I dont know, but there are plenty of folks running over 60. Some even running twins. One guy has been a year or so now with twins, ARP studs and a stock gasket.
630 HP on diesel only

Don~

 

I did mine about a week ago. The ARP 12mm are what you want to use. The lowest I have seen the studs were 399. I torqued them to 120ft lbs.

I would consider it only requiring basic mechanical skills. You will have to loosen the rocker arm hold down bolts (recommended torque is 27ft lbs when you tighten them back up), so that you can get to the row on the intake side. Some people say you can get by without doing a valve adjustment, but I figured now was a good time to adjust them anyway.

IMHO putting in studs is easier then installing injectors, and neither is very hard.

Paul

 

Do the studs require a loosen and retorque? We just did my headgasket today for the second time in two days(don't ask, bad story) and my mechanic buddy helping do it said on John Deere they say to torque and let set over night and then loosen and retorque once more. They used to require a warm motor on retorque but did away with those specs. We're going to do a cold retorque in the morning just to see if there is any movement.

 

Torque them to spec and bring engine to temp and retorque they should move a little then run valves again. I suggest haisley or scheids studs they are the same studi have never blown a head gasket with them.

 

When replacing a head gasket (not just installing studs), I warm the engine up, and then allow it to cool overnight. Then mark the nuts, loosen them and then re-torque. I kept doing this process (heat, cool, re-torque), until the nuts not longer tighten, but end up at the same mark as before the lossen and re-torque. Keep in mind that you may need to re-apply the arp lube.

Paul

 

FYI- Haisley studs use ARP nuts only. The stud is made by A-1 Technologies (known and used in NASCAR, Top Fuel, you name it). They are also a good stud.

I'm pretty sure ARP doesn't make a 14mm stud for our trucks, so you'll get a 12mm stud if you order the ARPs.

jlh

 

I have also had great luck with Haisley's 12mm studs.

I torqued them to 125, ran the engine (babying it the whole way little or no boost) to bring it up to temp. Let is sit over night then retorqued (on a cold engine) w/o loosening the studs and re adjusted the valves.

My truck is seeing 60psi every day with out any problems. (i say that beating my head on my wooden desk)


Justin

 

Come on Justin, crank that boost up to 80 or so.......Them fire rings will hold

Roman

 

I need to quit being a chicken and throw in the 55 lpm sticks.

But.....

I am happy with the pereformance and fuel mileage I have been getting right now.



Justin