Just got my head ringed today, and bought some studs whats the best way to install the head when you have studs? Since the head won't fit on the back cylinder with the studs because of clearence? What do you guys do?

 

First off did the studs you bought have a "hex" head on the tops?
Also, if your head is off of the engine right now you need to bottom tap the threads (no better time than now!).

 

get yourself a decent 12mmx1.75 bottoming tap and clean out all 26 holes before putting the head on. once you've done that and everything is perfectly clean, put the head on, there are two dowels in the engine block that will align it. then install all the studs, take them all the way down to the bottom then bring them back a 1/4 turn. go around and put all the nuts on the top of the studs, take them down by hand until they touch the head or are snug.

then follow the torquing sequence on the studs and go to 20ft-lbs, 40ft-lbs, 60ft-lbs, 80ft-lbs, 110ft-lbs.

put it all back together and start it up. let it idle for 10-20 minutes until everything gets nice and warm. then shut it off and let it cool down slowly with the hood shut for at least 4 hours. then go back and retorque them all to 122ft-lbs, this time one by one taking the nut off, adding more lube, then retorquing before going to the next one. you will need to remove the intake rocker arms to do this step tho.

once its back together after this step its a good idea, especially when trying to really seat the o-rings, to drive easy about 500 miles, then do one last re-torque, to 122ft-lbs because the HG will settle a little, and it really gets those rings to bite and keep a good seal.

 

should I put thread sealer on all the studs since i'm not sure witch ones go into the water jackets? And do I just put motor oil on the nuts only? And one other thing do you guys put the head gasket on by itself or do you put some kind of "copper coat" gasket spray you spray on the block before putting on the gasket> Thanks for the help

 

I used ARP moly lube, and torque to 122, some say if you use motor oil to go to 130lbs.

i just put the gasket on the block and made sure everything was clean. no spray or sealer there.

as for sealer on the studs in the water jackets...i don't know anything about that. i didnt use any sealer, and everything is sealed up and holding good for me. i wasn't aware that any studs went into the water jackets.

 

No sealer on the studs.

 

There is some good info above..... The only difference we use is instaed of going to 110# on the first torque we go to 96#. Then start the truck warm to operating temp and shut down. Allow to cool for 4-5 hours and do another torque to 110#. Drive a week or so easy and torque to 120-122#. Then in another 30 days retorque to 120-122#.

I like to use only the ARP moly lube..... I have seen guys break studs when using off brands and torquing the head. Be sure and use lots of the lube on the stud, washer, and retainer.

Doug Smith

 

Doug, i followed the dodge manual on torque sequence and ended up at 122. I ran the truck for 2 weeks keeping it under 30psi then i retorqued to 125 by loosening the nut then torqueing to 125. Should i go back one more time? I do not have fire rings only a cummins gasket?

Steve