ncdodgeman20

hey yall i just got done removeing the head off of my truck to replace h/g and put on studs iam useing a stock h/g so with the studs how much boost will it hold?and also i forgot to undo the ait sensor plug and ripped the wires out so were can i get one of these at??and one more thing what size tap do i need to clean the block hole out and were can i get one of these taps??thinks mike!!

Mike D

Oh boy, sounds like you need some help. Double check me, but I believe the tap is a 12MX1.75 and it should be a bottom tap. Not sure where you'll get one local. McMaster Carr sells them for sure. IAT you can get from Cummins or Dodge.

Are you going to get the head decked?

Mike D

Where you at in NC?

Reb.B

I wouldn't use a tap. You need all the metal you can holding those threads and it has to be close.

JD730

Huh???? Have you ever bottom tapped the holes in the block? The correct tap won't take any material off the existing threads. But they really need to be bottom tapped so the studs sit at the correct height.

Rpainter

the thread is m12x 1.75 and you will need a bottom tap

ncdodgeman20

i live in stanfield nc bout 30 min south east of charlotte and no i have bottom taped the block but some of the bolts that come out of the head where really nasty!!!and thinks for all of the help..

blackdiesel

there was a huge thread on this a long time ago, and i think they decided that the bottom tap was not necessary.

on a side note, i have installed two sets, and did not tap either block...

BC847

I've just this weekend completed the install of some A1 studs in my heap and their instructions are quite clear . . . .. bottom tap the holes.

dodgediesel

I didn't bother after doing 2 and noticing that it made the studs wobbley!!! I would recomend against it. My studs and o-rings help 51 psi no problem. Your choice though and many people recommend it but try doing 1 first and you will see what I mean. Oh and yes I did have the correct tap. Just my $.02.

2141pete

I didnt bottom tap mine and they all went in, BUT I had to do some custom midnight grinding on the valvecover to get it to clear the very front and back studs. Other than that they all went in fine.

Fishin2Deep4U

I didn't use a tap. But I did use 2 bolts that were welded together with a notch in one end.

Got the idea from a fellow BOMBer and recently made one for a buddy on his stud install.

Works like a champ and cost as much as a few inches of welding wire.

Dave

Reb.B

It might have been a good idea to bottom tap before ARP and A-1 had an allen slot to but the studs down with, but now that the studs use an allen wrench to screw down, its not needed to use bottom tap. When you use an ARP 625 studs and you torque it to 160 psi, believe me you want all the metal holding the studs there as possible. I use moly or nickel anti-seize on the threads going down. I don't use much though, just a little on the course threads. Also i feal it is verrrrrrry important to lubricate the surface on the head, washer, and the nut. If you don't, it could create a false torque.

ncdodgeman20

hey yall thinks for all the great help so i guess i have decide not to bottom tap the head and what all do i need to have done to the head when i send it off??thinks guys

NoSeeUm

This is the IAT extension cable I used once.

I am thinking you could use it in your repairs?

Jim