stroker4501

I am wanting to order head studs and I wanted to get instructions first. Do i have to take the head off. and what is all involved from start to finish. thanks in advance

JD Dearden

I believe you can leave the head gasket if you do one at a time and make sure you heat them up and retorque a couple times.

JIT

I would like to do this as well but not sure whats involved in doing Studs and O-rings!?!?

stroker4501

Anyone???????????????

1320

You dont have to remove the head to istall studs. You remove one head bolt, then install the head stud and torque down, then do the next one.

You do ofcourse have to remove the rocker covers. To do orings....the head comes off, you machine the block and head (sometimes only the head) but evrything comes aprt to do orings.

stroker4501

1320 Do you have to tap them agian or can i just directly replace them with 12mm arp's?

Pinkston

Another question on this subject. When just putting in studs one at a time and leaving the head alone what should they first be torqued to?? I know when the head comes off you do them in increments, but I would guess the first go round is slightly different when the head has not been removed.

1320

You probably can not run a tap through the holes, they are to far away down in the block. Just try to keep the hole clean, from debris, put the stud in but dont bottom them out. I ussually put them in all the way then back them out 1/2 turn. I think it in the directions. As for torque, follow the directions. It depends on whos stud you get, but yes just like they were new, do them in increments. The torque rating will depend on weather you use oil or an arp lube.
Ultimately what you want is to not disturb the head gasket seal, thats why you do them one at a time, and to get them all torqued the same. I cant quote the end rating but I think its 75-85-95 for arp's, it says....when you get them and depends on diameter, and lube.

Mike Holmen

You also have to make sure that the stud it self isn't turning and is bottom out. If you can get a tap in try it. The back holes are difficult with the head on. You need a long extension connected to the tap. I personelly just run the studs and try to blow the head gasket out. Once the head gasket is done, o-ring and do the tap chasing thing. You using your original head (used) or going the new route? The cummin head to prone to cracking and the valves might be sunk from excessive heat. I would buy a new head thats o-ring and ported and have it sit on the self until you blow the head gasket. Then you have good parts, and your only down a day or two. You also have to clean-up the block surface but that easy. What kind of pressure you thinking of running to?