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Head Removed for Headgasket repair, cylinder pics

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Old 02-12-2007 | 08:33 PM
  #31  
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I vote to bandage it up, and drive it in limp mode with no sled pulls, and when you get some more money, fix it right

just my opinion
Old 02-12-2007 | 08:34 PM
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Heres one more vote for honing and re-ringing the suspected cylinders. Lot cheaper than a seized piston or bearing failure due to oil contamination.
Old 02-12-2007 | 08:54 PM
  #33  
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how about he pulled the motor to get it rebuilt for next years season.... and the 215 truck he has will tow it there.....
now Garret.... waitin on my e-mail....
Old 02-12-2007 | 09:26 PM
  #34  
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Remember guys this thread was written 1 year ago nearly. I am now re-doing a LOT of stuff in this engine. It will be back and better than ever
Old 02-12-2007 | 09:27 PM
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Originally Posted by WUnderwood
I vote to bandage it up, and drive it in limp mode with no sled pulls, and when you get some more money, fix it right

just my opinion
I bandaged it up last march and drove the He!! out of it all year, sled pulling & everything
Old 02-13-2007 | 01:06 AM
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I know this thread is old. But that kind of scuffing really isnt too bad.
I would just run maybe a little thicker motor oil (like a 20w50) and try to bring the egt down by running a good cam, springs, and charger. After that is done it should last a lifetime.
Old 02-13-2007 | 05:32 AM
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did you ever put that coolant block kit on there? I put the block on mine, but I haven't ran any hoses yet.
Old 02-13-2007 | 10:02 AM
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Originally Posted by PourinDiesel
I know this thread is old. But that kind of scuffing really isnt too bad.
I would just run maybe a little thicker motor oil (like a 20w50) and try to bring the egt down by running a good cam, springs, and charger. After that is done it should last a lifetime.
Good info, thanks Justin.
I'll be posting pictures in the new thread of how it looks 25k miles later.

I am not pulling it JUST because of the scoring, I have other things to "upgrade" but the scoring I saw before just gave me a little more incentive to do it

Do you think I should run 20w50 all year pulling on a new rebuild?
Old 02-13-2007 | 10:03 AM
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Originally Posted by dieselfan
What type of motor oil did you use?
15w 40 Rotella Shell, a few short batches of Super Tech, and Conklin Convoy motor oil.

Engine was running like a top when I pulled it.
Old 02-13-2007 | 10:05 AM
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Originally Posted by LanceD
did you ever put that coolant block kit on there? I put the block on mine, but I haven't ran any hoses yet.
Yes I did, I will be revisting it and posting part numbers.
Old 02-13-2007 | 10:23 AM
  #41  
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Originally Posted by Bobcat698
Well I've ran the motor HARD for about 25k miles now.. Just pulled the motor yesterday.
"tried blowing it up on the way over" were the frist word out your mouth when you go to the shop. saying you were hard on it is an under statement.






pulling parts for sale, shop clean out.
Old 02-13-2007 | 10:31 AM
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More pics? An update a year later--Cool!!
Old 02-13-2007 | 10:32 AM
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Originally Posted by Mcmopar
More pics? An update a year later--Cool!!
Yep, as soon as the engine stand shows up, or maybe earlier, we'll have the head off!
Pump has to come off this week though first so I can get it sent out.
Old 02-13-2007 | 10:44 AM
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What kind of a stand are you using to hold this up?
Old 02-13-2007 | 10:51 AM
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Originally Posted by Bobcat698
Good info, thanks Justin.
Do you think I should run 20w50 all year pulling on a new rebuild?
Garrett,
Of the 20w50's I know dont have the soot additives that are part of most diesel oil's out there. But there might be some that do have the additive package.

So basically if you run the 20w50 without the additive package I would change it on a real regular basis IE every 2000 miles or so.

Last year I was changing my 15w40 oil every 1500 miles or so during pulling season.

This year I am going to try some 20w50 during pulling season since my motor is starting to loosen up a bit!


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