head removal process
08-09-2006 | 12:01 PM
#1
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From: Baltimore, MD
head removal process
im gonna be pulling mine this weekend...and ive searched and cant find a guide that tells what all needs to be done, as well as tips/shortcuts to pulling the head off of a 24v cummins.
any help, tips, links etc is appreciated. thanks
any help, tips, links etc is appreciated. thanks
08-09-2006 | 01:56 PM
#2
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Joined: May 2005
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From: Belvidere, NJ
I just did one, If you have an engine hoist it'll make life alot easier.
Pull the intake horn off, remove the APPS a move it out of the way, take the injector lines off as 2 sets of 3, pop the connector tubes out, take all the injectors out so you don't damage them. Don't forget to unhook all wires, radiator hoses, drain coolant, unbolt the turbo, etc. DON'T forget the fuel return on the back of the head.
Take the wipers off and the black cowl cover, you'll need to pop the plastic plugs out of the cab so you can get the push rods out when the time comes.
Take all the rocker arms and push rods off, you'll know why you took the plastic plugs out when you do #5 and #6 cylinders. At this point you should be ready to start taking head bolts out. When thats done its ready to come off. Make sure you put the rear lift hook back on and hook the chain or strap short. Then double check to make sure you unhook everything. After you've checked it twice, got ahead and pull it out carefully.
From start to on the bench was around 2 hours for me, then it took about 4 h.
Pull the intake horn off, remove the APPS a move it out of the way, take the injector lines off as 2 sets of 3, pop the connector tubes out, take all the injectors out so you don't damage them. Don't forget to unhook all wires, radiator hoses, drain coolant, unbolt the turbo, etc. DON'T forget the fuel return on the back of the head.
Take the wipers off and the black cowl cover, you'll need to pop the plastic plugs out of the cab so you can get the push rods out when the time comes.
Take all the rocker arms and push rods off, you'll know why you took the plastic plugs out when you do #5 and #6 cylinders. At this point you should be ready to start taking head bolts out. When thats done its ready to come off. Make sure you put the rear lift hook back on and hook the chain or strap short. Then double check to make sure you unhook everything. After you've checked it twice, got ahead and pull it out carefully.
From start to on the bench was around 2 hours for me, then it took about 4 h.
08-14-2006 | 02:17 PM
#5
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From: Fergus Falls, MN
I agree with everything JD730 said except for talking the wipers and cowel off. I've never had to do this. There are two plugs on the top side of the firewall. Take those out and you can tip the push rods side ways and the pull right out.
08-14-2006 | 06:03 PM
#7
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From: md
not sure if the rockers gotta come off or not but i always pull them off. just get a tarp or carboard and label intake and exhaust from cylinders 1-6 . that way they go back in the same way they came out. i also agree on not removing the wiper cowl. once off its easier to do the push rods but not needed. when putting the head back on make sure the head bolt holes are super super clean. antifreeze and oil get inside them when the head comes off. a turkey baster works good along with air. also take some compressed air to the top of the pistons. rotate your alternater counter clockwise to move the pistons to the top of block and put some air around the rings to get all the crap out. oil and antifreeze will come out by doing this.
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08-17-2006 | 10:01 PM
#9
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From: Baltimore, MD
well took me about 4 hours. took the wheels off and brought the truck down to my level (5'-9"), left the turbo and manifold attached (made life real easy). hardest part is getting all the injector lines apart. im gonna need pics of the injector lines to get my "snake bundle" put back together because i forgot to take a before picture 
here is the antifreeze that came out...not green
and the pushrods, rockers, and injectors labeled for each cylinder
top of the block
all the cylinders and pistons look great, crosshatching is beautiful, no scoring of the walls at all
here is the antifreeze that came out...not green
and the pushrods, rockers, and injectors labeled for each cylinder
top of the block
all the cylinders and pistons look great, crosshatching is beautiful, no scoring of the walls at all
08-18-2006 | 08:37 AM
#12
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From: Baltimore, MD
couldnt get a line wrench to get to the lines on the back of the IP...i didnt wanna take them apart, but ended up doing it so i could get the job done. ill just get my buddy's truck and snap some pics so i can put them back together
08-18-2006 | 08:50 AM
#14
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From: Baltimore, MD
well i guess my thoughts were clouded. ill know now if i ever have to do it again...appreciate the help tho. maybe tonight when i strip the head down i can throw the lines back on real quick and re-attach all the clips and get them back into the 2 bundles, rather than waiting a whole week to try and remember how they go.