hic316

What to do,

I already have stacked my smarty and xzillaraider and produced boost up to roughly 52 lbs. I am getting a beta adrenaline box right after christmas and expect my boost levels to be close to that if not higher. Right now I am running stock head bolts and gasket. I am pretty sure this combo will not hold much longer so just looking for some advice or ideas.

I was possibly thinking about just swapping the stock head bolts one at a time for some ARP and keeping the stock gasket in place so I don't have to worry about the gasket and any milling. How much boost do you think the ARP bolts and stock gasket will hold?

I have heard mixed opinions about the cometic multilayer gasket, and very little about the phuzion (i think i spelled it right) which in theory looks like a good idea.

Any ideas would be great.

Thanks

dieselman2300

I have heard 60psi on studs and gasket (no orings). With the stuff you have you need orings.

2141pete

I just did the same thing you are thinking about two weeks ago and my truck is in the shop getting O-ringed right now. I would reccomend getting O-ringed and studded. I was the guy that thought I could get away with it for a Year but I was sure wrong. I only ran mine to 43psi and it popped at 30psi

hic316

What kind of gasket and studs are you going with 2141pete?

2141pete

I've got ARP 12mm studs and It's getting a modified 20 over 12v marine gasket, and O-rings

G1625S

I've been running 40psi and lots of timing and just lost my HG recently. I'm going with a +.020 gasket and stock bolts. I planned on 12mm studs but the timing of this failure doesn't permit them at this time Still, I got 100,000 miles at 40psi...and the engine had 350k when I got it, so I ain't complaining

o-rings and studs are justifiable insurance when you're hanging out above 40psi, IMO.

2141pete

I thought I was fine. I think the 62/12 was hurting it for a while though. The twins just finished it off. My HRVP plus the juice w/ att add alot of timing so it was just a matter of time.

hic316

It seems like alot of people are going for the marine gasket. Also if I go for o-rings, do i need the deck resurfaced, or if it is within spec, just the head for the o-rings?

G1625S

I'm sure I'll be corrected if I'm wrong, but I've read that there is no 'marine' gasket...rather a gasket for a 6bt, 6bta, isb etc, in whatever flavor you desire---stock, +.010, or +.020. Perhaps it's only true for the 12v, I'm not sure.

2141pete

Not sure, I think there may be a different gasket for marine applications. From what I understand the 12v's had a little bit beter gaskets anyway. The head will more than likley have to be decked.

Forrest11479

hic316,

Just o-ring it and twin turbo it you have half the parts already here... LOL

You know you want too

dieselman2300

Cummins doesnt make a standard gasket anymore.
They only carry the "Marine Version" now.

kipo

I have run studs and a .10 over marine for about two years now and had no problems. I've hit 50-51 lbs quite often in the winter. I would recommend decking the head, copper coating the gasket, and re-tourqing while hot. The first gasket was a .20 over marine that I re-tourqued 3 times, broke two arp studs, and blew it in 4 days. I never re-tourqued while hot though. You will be surprised how much more you can get out it while hot.

dieselman2300

There is many different opinions on this.
I have always retorqued cold.

I posted on here not to long ago when I did my headgasket, and the consensus was to retorque cold.
I also had the same post on comp. diesel and the consensus there said to retorque cold also.
It makes sense if you think about it. When hot everything expands. When you let it cool down everything contracts. The reason for retorquing is because the studs stretch and you need to make up the difference.
When you have orings, you want the orings to penetrate the firering of the gasket hence retorquing cold.

I know the BIG Cummins engine builders retorque cold.

You will get alot out of a cold engine also.
JMO

kipo

I just stated my experience while re-tourqing cold. I broke two arp studs and couldn't get any more movement out of the gasket. When I re-tourqued hot I got a lot more movement and it just felt better when I went up to 118lbs. Now,, are you talking about re-tourqing cold after bringing the truck up to operating temperature? If so yes I can see where that will be almost the same as re-tourqing hot. Several people I talked to when I did mine said the same thing (bring up to temp then re-tourque). I've only re-tourqued mine one time due to the fear of breaking another ARP stud and it's held all this time. Go figure?