HE351VGT Turbo Swap into 2nd Gen w/ Fleece Controller
#1
Registered User
Thread Starter
HE351VGT Turbo Swap into 2nd Gen w/ Fleece Controller
Who has personally done the swap of putting in the HE351VGT Turbo with the Fleece Controller?
I'm thinking of doing the swap and wanted to know what problems came about.
What I do know so far.
1. Want to use the 6.7l exhaust manifold. Keeps the turbo away from the shock tower.
2. Need the 3rd Gen downpipe and may still need mods to make it work but is the best choice so far.
What I don't know.
1. Are Mods needed or just different parts to hook up to the Inter cooler.
2. Are Mods needed or just different parts to hook up the Oil feed and drain on the turbo.
3. How hard is the wiring for the Fleece controller, do they give detailed instructions and any of the extra parts that may be needed for 2nd Gen trucks or do I have to buy these extra parts to hook up the controller.
4. Is there a bunch of other parts I need to get to do this change over and what are they.
In the end was it worth it to do the swap.
I currently have an HX35W with 14cm housing on the bench and not sure if its worth it to install with my future plans of bigger injectors and programer. I'm not looking for huge power but would like more for towing a 7,000lb trailer on these mountains in Alaska. My biggest worry is getting higher EGT's with more power.
Any help would be appreciated. Jim
I'm thinking of doing the swap and wanted to know what problems came about.
What I do know so far.
1. Want to use the 6.7l exhaust manifold. Keeps the turbo away from the shock tower.
2. Need the 3rd Gen downpipe and may still need mods to make it work but is the best choice so far.
What I don't know.
1. Are Mods needed or just different parts to hook up to the Inter cooler.
2. Are Mods needed or just different parts to hook up the Oil feed and drain on the turbo.
3. How hard is the wiring for the Fleece controller, do they give detailed instructions and any of the extra parts that may be needed for 2nd Gen trucks or do I have to buy these extra parts to hook up the controller.
4. Is there a bunch of other parts I need to get to do this change over and what are they.
In the end was it worth it to do the swap.
I currently have an HX35W with 14cm housing on the bench and not sure if its worth it to install with my future plans of bigger injectors and programer. I'm not looking for huge power but would like more for towing a 7,000lb trailer on these mountains in Alaska. My biggest worry is getting higher EGT's with more power.
Any help would be appreciated. Jim
#5
Registered User
Thread Starter
Don't bother with e-mail to Fleece is correct.
I called Fleece after no response to e-mail. Ran them through my questions.
1. Get the turbo. Buy the coolant fittings for the turbo that allow a coolant hose to hook up. Buy extra hoseing for the cab heater core and connect into the return side of the cab heater core. Return off of the turbo will go back to the return on the block for the heater core.
2. Oil fittings. Pressure hose is the same and ours should work fine may need to put a 90deg street elbow on the filter end for oil pressure line to reach turbo if using the 6.7l exhaust manifold. As for return line, buy the oil return line for the turbo and fab connect it to our return line. If using hose for fabbing make sure you buy high temp silicone oil line hose. If using the 6.7l exhaust manifold the return line connection on the block moves to the back of the engine. There is a galley plug that needs to be removed and a new return oil fitting (tapped in gently with hammer) installed. The old oil fitting on block is removed and a new galley plug is installed in its place.
3. Exhaust-If using 6.7l exhaust manifold make sure you get the cast elbow with the turbo to use the 3rd Gen downpipe, everything else will connect up easily. If using 2nd Gen exhaust manifold with T-3 adapter to turbo the 2nd Gen HX40 downpipe without the cast elbow on turbo will work.
4. Compressor to Intercooler, straight from the horses mouth- Use exhaust pipe and fab your own connection to the intercooler as long as you can weld and have a chop saw, supposedly it was real easy. May need extra boots and high pressure hose clamps.
There supposedly an increase in HP even if the engine is stock. Launching straight off the line you can build serious boost enough that most people that have done the change over are breaking tranny and or rearend components. Fuel Mileage supposeldy increases, will see, douptful myself. Best of all, you can control your EGT's.
What I don't know is how much the stock 351vgt can handle in mods before you go to a different compressor or up to the 451vgt. Honestly I don't care as I'm not going to go over 400hp anyway and Fleece said this turbo will take care of what I'm doing.
As I have not done this change over yet and I'm seriously considering it, I think someone could make some serious money on getting all the necessary components together, fabbing some stuff and sell a kit, sure would make life easier. I think with me doing the change over it will still take 2 weekends and the truck being down for a whole week. Don't know if I want that yet, its my only 4WD I have in Alaska. May have to wait till spring.
Anybody else out there who can add pics for this change over and explain in greater detail what they did would be very helpful.
1. Get the turbo. Buy the coolant fittings for the turbo that allow a coolant hose to hook up. Buy extra hoseing for the cab heater core and connect into the return side of the cab heater core. Return off of the turbo will go back to the return on the block for the heater core.
2. Oil fittings. Pressure hose is the same and ours should work fine may need to put a 90deg street elbow on the filter end for oil pressure line to reach turbo if using the 6.7l exhaust manifold. As for return line, buy the oil return line for the turbo and fab connect it to our return line. If using hose for fabbing make sure you buy high temp silicone oil line hose. If using the 6.7l exhaust manifold the return line connection on the block moves to the back of the engine. There is a galley plug that needs to be removed and a new return oil fitting (tapped in gently with hammer) installed. The old oil fitting on block is removed and a new galley plug is installed in its place.
3. Exhaust-If using 6.7l exhaust manifold make sure you get the cast elbow with the turbo to use the 3rd Gen downpipe, everything else will connect up easily. If using 2nd Gen exhaust manifold with T-3 adapter to turbo the 2nd Gen HX40 downpipe without the cast elbow on turbo will work.
4. Compressor to Intercooler, straight from the horses mouth- Use exhaust pipe and fab your own connection to the intercooler as long as you can weld and have a chop saw, supposedly it was real easy. May need extra boots and high pressure hose clamps.
There supposedly an increase in HP even if the engine is stock. Launching straight off the line you can build serious boost enough that most people that have done the change over are breaking tranny and or rearend components. Fuel Mileage supposeldy increases, will see, douptful myself. Best of all, you can control your EGT's.
What I don't know is how much the stock 351vgt can handle in mods before you go to a different compressor or up to the 451vgt. Honestly I don't care as I'm not going to go over 400hp anyway and Fleece said this turbo will take care of what I'm doing.
As I have not done this change over yet and I'm seriously considering it, I think someone could make some serious money on getting all the necessary components together, fabbing some stuff and sell a kit, sure would make life easier. I think with me doing the change over it will still take 2 weekends and the truck being down for a whole week. Don't know if I want that yet, its my only 4WD I have in Alaska. May have to wait till spring.
Anybody else out there who can add pics for this change over and explain in greater detail what they did would be very helpful.
#7
Registered User
Here's mine, bolted to a stock 12v manifold with no adapter--plenty of shock tower clearance:
Had the oddball v-band welded to my hx35 elbow, so it bolts directly to my original downpipe:
Spring tension holds vanes closed untill drive pressure pushes the lever open. Hokey-looking cable setup it attached to a lever on the shifter. Pull back against the big spring and exhaust brake is functional. Not nearly as slick as the fleece setup, but I only got about 300 clams into the entire setup:
Had the oddball v-band welded to my hx35 elbow, so it bolts directly to my original downpipe:
Spring tension holds vanes closed untill drive pressure pushes the lever open. Hokey-looking cable setup it attached to a lever on the shifter. Pull back against the big spring and exhaust brake is functional. Not nearly as slick as the fleece setup, but I only got about 300 clams into the entire setup:
Trending Topics
#8
1. Get the turbo. Buy the coolant fittings for the turbo that allow a coolant hose to hook up. Buy extra hoseing for the cab heater core and connect into the return side of the cab heater core. Return off of the turbo will go back to the return on the block for the heater core.
#9
Registered User
Thread Starter
Thanks for the pics and input. Keep it coming the more the better.
Except for the heater core suggestion. I hate the heat, that is why I'm up here in Alaska. Funny thing, its been warmer here in Anchorage Alaska the last couple weeks then you guys down there.
Except for the heater core suggestion. I hate the heat, that is why I'm up here in Alaska. Funny thing, its been warmer here in Anchorage Alaska the last couple weeks then you guys down there.
#12
Registered User
Join Date: Apr 2007
Location: Edmonton Alberta
Posts: 2,435
Likes: 0
Received 0 Likes
on
0 Posts
is the he351cw, the same turbo dimention wise to the VE, or a better question can I pull my cw out and drop in the VE? without having to modify exhaust and intake piping?
#13
Registered User
Thread Starter
HE351CW is a different turbo. Better than the HY35 from my year. Different exhaust hook up.
The HE352VE is stamped on the Holset ID tag on the turbo, But cast into the exhaust turbine I believe is HE351VGT.
The HE351VGT is a variable geometry turbo. The variable part is the Turbine side. The turbine can vary its size from 9cm to 23cm (I think it may go bigger not sure).
What the advantage is:
Boost at lower RPM's like the HY35
Boost at mid range like the HX35
Boost at high end like the HX40
Can run higher boost overall, I've heard of it going as high as 41psi
Better throttle response throughout the whole rpm range and allows the driver to control EGT's with the Fleece controller.
The variable part is controlled by an electric motor that is receiving input from either the stock ECU on 07.5 to 2011 year trucks or from the Fleece ECU for 2nd gen or 3rd gen without the VGT Turbo.
This is what I have learned through research but have no personal experience.
Can someone else chime in and let me know if I'm correct or wrong.
The HE352VE is stamped on the Holset ID tag on the turbo, But cast into the exhaust turbine I believe is HE351VGT.
The HE351VGT is a variable geometry turbo. The variable part is the Turbine side. The turbine can vary its size from 9cm to 23cm (I think it may go bigger not sure).
What the advantage is:
Boost at lower RPM's like the HY35
Boost at mid range like the HX35
Boost at high end like the HX40
Can run higher boost overall, I've heard of it going as high as 41psi
Better throttle response throughout the whole rpm range and allows the driver to control EGT's with the Fleece controller.
The variable part is controlled by an electric motor that is receiving input from either the stock ECU on 07.5 to 2011 year trucks or from the Fleece ECU for 2nd gen or 3rd gen without the VGT Turbo.
This is what I have learned through research but have no personal experience.
Can someone else chime in and let me know if I'm correct or wrong.
#14
Registered User
Do you use the HE351 exhaust elbow? If so then the exhaust is the same. Even thou the compressor wheel is identical to the HE351CW there are some dimensional differences and intake/compressor outlet take a little massaging to make work (so I understand). I beleive the turbo is longer, and the exhaust is in the same spot.
#15
Registered User
Thread Starter
Exhaust may be in the same spot if using the 5.9l exhaust manifold. Problem is you will need the adapter T3 to the VGT to mount it. If using the 6.7l exhaust manifold then exhaust will be different. Turbo moves closer to the block and towards the firewall it also will require the 6.7 downpipe.