Mike Holmen

They are purfect then, good job buddy. I used to run mach 6's daily for three years, but they are hard on parts, its abit of a list.

If you start getting more than 1400's, you could put on watermethanol or try an external gate. How much smoke you get at spool-up? What elevation you at? You got a nice set-up

gwhammy

Ah, the price on the twins just got higher! What kind of clutch are going to get?
Mike do you like this set over the 37 better?

stevewes2004

it doesnt smoke near as bad driving normal now. with the box turned down i can drive smokeless really easy. with it turned up, i can roll it good if im lugging it, but as fast as they spool, it doesnt take long to clear up. AND it clears up completely now. with the silver 62, it would still haze at WOT.

yes it did! i want to get a 3250 or 3600 dual disc, but we will see. the 3250 non-SFI is about 500 cheaper than the 3600 from VALAIR

Mike Holmen

My reasons for building a smaller set of twins, is that I'm running smaller sticks now than what I was a year ago. There is nothing wrong with the GT3788R over the S475 that I built, beside needing more fuel to really wake them up. They are perfect matched for my mach 6'rs and P pump upgrade down the road. Even with 450rwhp truck the GT37/S475 twins spooled pretty decently, but not as good as your, but you have more fuel than my current fuel configuration. My max egt's was around 1050 to 1100 deg's with my foot on the floor and around 50psi. Lots of room left for fuel.

I ran the GT37/BTH3B on mach6'rs, my max egt's was around 1300-1400 deg's and around 80psi, but that was hard on head gaskets. They spooled kinda like your did, as find that you run more boost fast.

Mike Holmen

The GT3582R over S366 is still in build mode, I have a bad front drive side hub and upper ball joint right now. I'm working on convertering my truck from ball joints over to king pin on the dana 60 and running the 3rd gen brakes

stevewes2004

yea i'll be interested to see how fast that setup spools. glad you have your priorities right, and fixing things you actually NEED. unlike myself, i went with big stix and twins before upgrading the clutch and adding studs. but now i have an excuse for the wife to do both

Mike Holmen

Steve, to bad you didn't live closer, I have an used set of ARP's, you just need to get a couple of the shorter studs. Anyways the standard ARP's stuff isn't to expensive. You gonna o-ring the head?

You figure out you fuel issue yet? Mine used to do that, vapor lock and run the VP out of fuel. For awhile there I drove around town with a 3/4 wrench in the console, for those just incase occurances. Is your fuel tank pressurizing up? Or getting any blow-by coming out the tank? I had one injector that was lose and was causing my roll-over valve to plug up (its a tank vent), causing the tank to pressurize. Good luck buddy, and keep on fabing up stuff.

stevewes2004

im going to torque my factory bolts down for now. i'll only o-ring the head if (when) i blow my headgasket. what do you mean, i only need a coulpe of the shorter ones?

i think it has to do with my edge, and when i drive it hard sometimes. i couldn't get it to turn off right after it shut down in the video. i turned the truck back off and on, and it did fine??? i drove about 120miles the other day and never got above 25psi and it ran perfect (besides the clutch slipping). and even most of the time if i do drive it hard, it wont do it.

Mike Holmen

No I have an used set of ARP, with two ruined studs. The stocker bolts are fine, what torque are you using on the bolts?

Is there fuel in the injector lines? Is the truck running funny after a wot? You should get a fuel pressure hooked up and see what kinda of fuel pressure you have available.

stevewes2004

oh i gotcha. im going to retorque to 125ft-lbs.

i have my gauge hooked up i just had it valved out with a needle valve. i cracked it open on the way home the other day, and im get a steady 17psi at idle, around 15 normal driving, and about 12-13 at WOT. the truck runs great 95% of the time after WOT. its acted funny about 3 times so far. it never did it until i put the twins on.

Mike Holmen

Its probably your drag box, draining the VP of fuel. That why I run a regular comp box around town, and use the drag box for dyno/races.

Which VP you using? A 027 or 028 (SO or HO) injection pump?

stevewes2004

its an HO. that is probably the problem. it drained and caused an air bubble, hince having to use starting fluid to get her cranked.

Mike Holmen

You should really just crack the injection lines and bleed down the system. Two to three lines, the truck should start.

Starting fluid, wow, that pretty hard on stuff. I've never used it on my ride.

stevewes2004

oh i know. i was in a hurry b/c i was stuck in such a busy place. one small squirt did the job.

i hope i can get a clutch soon to see what kinda numbers i can make. it would be cool to hit 500 with this HO pump but i wont push my luck.

Mike Holmen

You should be close to the 500rwhp mark. What max boost you pulling? If your around 50 psi with decent egt's less than 1300 deg's. Do you have a pressure gauges on the primary? I'm curious on how much boost its running at.