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hard shifting with a nv4500 and a DD clutch

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Old 02-07-2008 | 08:44 PM
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hard shifting with a nv4500 and a DD clutch

To make a long story short I had my 4500 rebuilt at the same time I put a sbc spring loaded 3600# DD in. It shifts real bad for the past 10k miles or so. I more or less have to double clutch all the time to get it to go into gear in less then a 3 second shift and even then sometimes I can feel the teath of the gears trying to synch up when it goes in. I have syntourq in it. I tried adding a friction modifire that either did nothing or made it worse. I've called SBC about 8 times about it and none of there ideas helped. I'm also pretty sure that when the trans was rebuilt they didnt put the carbon compisite syncros back in and there just bronz. I was thinking of trying redline mtl or mt90 for one last chance before I throw everything out and start over again. Any suggestions on the oil? or anything else for that matter?
thanks
Old 02-07-2008 | 08:55 PM
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Does the tranny shift good while sitting still? Did you take the washer out behind the clutch fork pivot ball?, this makes a big difference in clutch performance.
Old 02-07-2008 | 09:15 PM
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took the washer out. also removed the spacer on the slave cylinder to get more travel. it sort of shifts when sitting still. you have to goto a few gears to find one meshed up right then they all seem to work untill you start going again.
Old 02-07-2008 | 10:15 PM
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Originally Posted by Captain
took the washer out. also removed the spacer on the slave cylinder to get more travel. it sort of shifts when sitting still. you have to goto a few gears to find one meshed up right then they all seem to work untill you start going again.
Have you tried putting the spacer back on the slave to see if that changes anything? Do you have the SB hydraulics? If so, Have you tried adjusting the rod on the clutch pedal?
Old 02-07-2008 | 11:38 PM
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To a certain extent, this is just life with a DD clutch.

The much heavier weight of clutch means higher rotational inertia that the synchros must fight to try and match the speed of the next gear.

JH
Old 02-07-2008 | 11:39 PM
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the rod is adjusted all the way out. anymore and it will bottom out against the back of the master cylinder. its the sbc setup. putting the spacer back in will just limit the clutch fork travel more like it was before. either way spacer out, or in it dosent matter.
Old 02-08-2008 | 07:54 AM
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Originally Posted by Captain
the rod is adjusted all the way out. anymore and it will bottom out against the back of the master cylinder. its the sbc setup. putting the spacer back in will just limit the clutch fork travel more like it was before. either way spacer out, or in it dosent matter.
I had a similar problem, turned out that I had it adjusted too far out. I spun my pedal all the way in & put the spacer back in & problem solved.
Old 02-08-2008 | 09:12 AM
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Originally Posted by J Lent
I had a similar problem, turned out that I had it adjusted too far out. I spun my pedal all the way in & put the spacer back in & problem solved.
So your thinking in your case to much clutch fork travel caused it to be very hard to get into gear as well? I'll try not pushing the pedel in as far when I clutch today. That should be the same effect.
Old 02-08-2008 | 09:48 AM
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Captain..
You also asked about a different lube other than Syntorque......Andy

http://www.schaefferoil.com/gear_oil...gear_lube.html
Old 02-08-2008 | 03:38 PM
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depressing the clutch pedel less didnt have any effect. I wonder if I should rebuild it and put the correct syncros in. I cant help but feel its still a clutch issue though.
Old 02-08-2008 | 05:12 PM
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I know you said you had talked to SBC a few times.
I have a 3250 SBC DD and I was unhappy with the way it was shifting. Kind of the same problem you are having 3 sec. shifts, double clutching.

I called Peter and told him I was unhappy with the clutch. I told him when I ordered it that I wanted a fast smooth shifting clutch.
He said OK, and built me another one under warranty. He said that there were some problems with the 3250 DD when they first came out and mine landed in the timeframe. He said they came out with a new design. Its a diaphram style 6 ceramic button that is supposed to shift very close to a single. He said they were calling it the street drag.
I was supposed to install it this weekend, but it looks like next weekend.
Old 02-08-2008 | 06:04 PM
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really.... I'll need to call him monday about that. when you get yours in please PM me and tell me how it drive, peddel effort (not that I care about that really) and how it shifts.
Thanks

I just put amsoil in the trans so well see what that does I expect no change.
Old 02-08-2008 | 06:44 PM
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Originally Posted by Captain
really.... I'll need to call him monday about that. when you get yours in please PM me and tell me how it drive, peddel effort (not that I care about that really) and how it shifts.
Thanks

I just put amsoil in the trans so well see what that does I expect no change.
Sure will do.
When I had called Peter, he said to check the throw out fork where the slave pivot ball sits. He said to start the truck, pull the slave, and put your finger on the fork where the slave ball sits. He said if you feel a pulsation then it was something wrong with the clutch. He didnt say what, but didnt have a problem sending out a new one.
CALL HIM BEFORE DOING THIS TO GET BETTER INSTRUCTIONS!
You have a 12 month warranty on the clutches.

The new Dual Disc he sent me looks ALOT like the Haisley street drag. I know guys say that the Haisley shifts good.

When my old tranny blew 3rd gear, I put a rebuilt Blumenthals trans. in with the SBC Dual Disc. I had talked to Monty at Blumenthals, and he assured me that the brass synchros are better than the carbon fibre ones that New Venture had originally installed.
I know I have read on here that people say the carbon ones are better, but like Monty said there are alot more trannies out there that were built with Brass synchros than carbon ones, and they all seem to work well.
JMO.
Old 02-08-2008 | 06:48 PM
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One other thing is put 4.5 quarts of fluid in instead of 4.
Monty at Blumenthals said that this was a big problem with the NV4500s the gears and sychros are starved from fluid.

The funny thing is, I just read this on quad4x4s site also.
Here is the link. Look under dodge spesifications and in the fluid part it says 4 quarts, but we recommend 4.5.
http://www.quad4x4.com/NV4500FAQ.htm#when
Old 02-08-2008 | 06:57 PM
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From: CHAMPAIGN ILLINOIS
I Have Drove Quite A Few Double Disk Clutches And None Of Them Are As Good As A Single. But There Are Differences That Can Make Them Much Easier. Mostly It Is Little Things That You Probably Couldn't Even See. Such As Minor Warpage In Friction Disc Or Not Properly Adjusted Pp Fingers Or Even Sometimes The Rivets Ar Not Perfectly Seated Holding The Button Up Just A Tad. Attention To Detail On These Clutches Is Very Important. I Would Recommend Powerparts Enginerring. Terry Builds Awseome Clutches And Is A Hell Of A Guy To Deal With.



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