Hand Built Exaust
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Hand Built Exaust
Anyone built an exaust from hand?
I have more time on my hands than money when it comes to the truck these days.
Im sure I could get all bent and straight 4" or 5" from a truck parts store.
Would I be best of coming off the downpipe, or pick it up at the bottom?
My exaust is literally rotting out, so Im going to have to take a crack at this.
Or at least price the material vs. a kit.
Which is better 4" or 5", is the 5 much louder?
I have more time on my hands than money when it comes to the truck these days.
Im sure I could get all bent and straight 4" or 5" from a truck parts store.
Would I be best of coming off the downpipe, or pick it up at the bottom?
My exaust is literally rotting out, so Im going to have to take a crack at this.
Or at least price the material vs. a kit.
Which is better 4" or 5", is the 5 much louder?
#2
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I have built quite a few of them....its not hard if you have a mig welder and a chopsaw, however I dont know if you could build as cheap as you can get them on ebay. If you come off the turbo you will need at least 1 45* 4 90* and about 20' of straight.......sooooo if can get the materials cheap enough go for it.
#3
I picked up a complete 4 inch from Summit for a decent price,to me it's not worth it for the amount that you can by a cheap one for and be done in a couple of hours........
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I bought my 5" straight pipe from markoidaho for $335 shipped. Just got it today, hopefully goes in really easily. Never done one. Can one person do it or is it a team effort?
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As for peicing one together its really up to you. Just price everything out and then compare it to prebuilt kits. Also dont forget about pipe hangers, clamps, and maybe a tip if you want some bling.
EDIT: Sourceautomotive has a 4" system w/ muffler for $300 and if you want to delete the muffler then its $270.
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#8
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build your own, when ever you stert it up or floor it it will put a smile on your face knowing you built it. + you can have the tip come out however you want. built my using bends and old stacks form a freind that worked at a truck shop. i was in the same boat more time then money. thougth now its changed to no time or money.
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there was a guy on TDR (i think over seas) who hand built his system for a suburban cummins swap. he hand built an equal length tube style header, and the complete system out of stainless and all the welds were grinded smooth and polished. even made his own muffler with a piece of pipe with holes drilled in it, with metal screen, then insulation in a large sheetmetal square box with the ends welded on and grinded smooth. if you have the time and equipment, why not.
plus you could put the tailpipe anywhere you want.
plus you could put the tailpipe anywhere you want.
#10
4" turbo down pipe from napa $83.00
15 ft. 4 in. straight pipe $82.50
4 in. 90 deg. bend $27.00
1 4 in. stainless band clamp $4.00
2 hours=priceless
TOTAL $196.50
Used the band clamp at the turbo headpipe to hold it together while i figured out how to run the rest. I ran straight out over the rear axle welded the 90 on to the straight pipe then welded a piece in the other end and slash cut the tip it exits midway between the tire and front of bumper. By doing it this way I was able to clear the rear axle by a good 10-11 inches this makes the exhaust run slightly uphill to the rear of the truck with no bends in the system and you can't see any of it since ti is totally hiddin by the frame. After all this i found that i only had to grind a slight bit off of the front pipe where it hooks to the turbo pipe and then weld it where i had used the band clamp for fitting things up. I felt really good after getting it done and have had several people say they thought a semi truck was coming or slowing down.
15 ft. 4 in. straight pipe $82.50
4 in. 90 deg. bend $27.00
1 4 in. stainless band clamp $4.00
2 hours=priceless
TOTAL $196.50
Used the band clamp at the turbo headpipe to hold it together while i figured out how to run the rest. I ran straight out over the rear axle welded the 90 on to the straight pipe then welded a piece in the other end and slash cut the tip it exits midway between the tire and front of bumper. By doing it this way I was able to clear the rear axle by a good 10-11 inches this makes the exhaust run slightly uphill to the rear of the truck with no bends in the system and you can't see any of it since ti is totally hiddin by the frame. After all this i found that i only had to grind a slight bit off of the front pipe where it hooks to the turbo pipe and then weld it where i had used the band clamp for fitting things up. I felt really good after getting it done and have had several people say they thought a semi truck was coming or slowing down.
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