I am curious about what turbo is the best. What are some of your experiences and what are you guys running. I do not want twins right now. I have seen HX50s could you put a 12cm housing on them and spool them up are they to big? I am just curious Thanks Don

 

From what I've gathered, the B-1 has a little big of lag and it can be kind of hard to control EGT's when you are in the mountains. Twins spool up a lot better and keep the EGT's in check. You can also get more boost out of twins. More boost+More fuel=More power. ;D The downside of twins is the cost. If I'm correct, you can buy a kit from Piers for like $5000 or so. I don't know if that's the exact price or what it includes. Or anything. This is just stuff I have gathered from reading other posts. Also, the amount of work that goes into setting up a set of twins is pretty extensive.

 

An H2E with a 12cm housing will spool well but wont give you a lot of egt relief. You didn't say what kind of hp you are running or what you do with your truck but a good compromise is a PDR40. I dont have experience with a B1 but everything I have heard said it is laggy but tough. Several people have switch to a PDR40 from B1's due to drivability. Cost wise a PDR40 is about 2/3 of a B1. Temperature relief wise the PDR40 is suppose to be worth 250* and the B1 is around 400*. I guess it comes down to how much lag you can handle and how much egt relief you need. My PDR40's spool at about 1400-14500rpms. I believe the B1 is around 1700. Anyone want to correct me if I'm wrong on the B1, feel free.

 

I am running the B-1 Kwik with stage 3's and TST powermax Comp...no egt problems and spool up is 1500. Up hills and long grades with heavy trailer on my 24V...no issues...always under 1300F unless I stomp the pedal and then it drops down real fast when I get off the pedal. Could have something to do with the Scotty Air I have. How come Joe D did not test my system with the other set ups? I would've liked to see the numbers in comparison, for the non believers too.<br><br>I get 50 psi of boost. More boost does not always equate to more power with fuel...CFM does play a big role.<br>Several twins set up I have seen are wasted at 60-65 as opposed to running them to 80 or higher.<br><br>

 

You also might want to look into Piers HX50/55 hybrid.<br><br>Here

 

My take on turbos is like many of the other products we add to our CTD's, you need to match it to the other mod's and equipment. Which rear end ratio, transmission, 12V or 24V, horsepower (or goal), altitude, intended use, etc. all play a role in turbo decisions. I suppose that a variable vane would solve most of the equation but I've not had any experience with one. I changed out a HX40-16 for a regular B1 Bomber on 24V and like the results. The HX-40 works well on a 12V with stock head and cam. JMHO, Larry

 

Several twins set up I have seen are wasted at 60-65 as opposed to running them to 80 or higher.<br><br>60-70 seems to be the best for a HT3B and a 35, after that there is too much backpressure, they are no efficient at 80.<br><br>Jim

 

[quote author=Jim Fulmer link=board=7;threadid=9629;start=0#92463 date=1042663756]<br>Several twins set up I have seen are wasted at 60-65 as opposed to running them to 80 or higher.<br><br>60-70 seems to be the best for a HT3B and a 35, after that there is too much backpressure, they are no efficient at 80.<br><br>Jim <br>[/quote]<br><br>Jim have you found that the volume of air is more the benefit other then huge pressures? Heat and efficiency definately will be effected tunning at high psi. If one could deliver 1500 cfm or lots more with not as much pressure...that would be better, true?<br><br>pros? cons?<br><br>Scotty

 

Do yall think a 100 psi twinned daily driver is feasible? That's where I WANT to get to. Would the lag be to bad? This is WAY on down the road. I was just curious if it could be done.

 

cummins24:<br><br>I have run a B-1, &quot;stock&quot; HX-40 and a Piers HX-40 on<br>my 96' 12 valve. Awhile back, I did an in-depth <br>&quot;comparison&quot; of all these turbos on this site in this<br>section (High Performance/Aftermarket Accessories).<br>If you will page back you should be able to find it.<br>It is titled &quot;B-1 vs Piers HX-40&quot;. If you have trouble<br>finding it let me know and we will get some help from<br>Jack, &quot;Top&quot;, Gonzo, CMNS_PWR or one of the other<br>moderators. <br><br>Hope this helps you some.<br><br>--------<br>John_P

 

I am wondering about the HX40. I have heard several horror stories on them. I talked to Piers and he is running the HX50 on his truck. That makes me wonder why should I get a Hx40. Thanks Don<br>

 

[quote author=cummins24 link=board=7;threadid=9629;start=0#92632 date=1042690908]<br>I am wondering about the HX40. I have heard several horror stories on them.[/quote]<br><br>You have to watch the horror stories, Don. You'll hear horrors about every turbo in existence. <br><br>I am personally not a big fan of HX40 turbochargers, of any breed, due to the limitations imposed by a relatively large pinwheel mated to a fairly small impeller shaft. Most HX40s and their hybrids are wasted at around 35 - 38 PSI for this very reason.<br><br>Due to these limits, I don't think an HX40 (of any sort, although Pier's HX40s are excellent versions of the animal) should be used in an application above 400 HP (12 valve - 350/375). Exhaust gas temperatures just get out of control too quickly. I have several customers who run aggressive fueling boxes, Stage III injectors, and HX40's (including a couple Piers 40s). In every case, their top-end fueling needs to be restricted due to heat concerns.<br><br>In comparison, Scotty's truck, with the TST Competition, massaged 3's, and a B1 KwikSpool does not have these heat concerns. When initially planting the pedal, EGTs will cruise up to 1500, but then begin to drop back to 1300 as the turbo starts moving air (900 cfm+ with a KwikSpool). To me, this means that not only are you building gobs of horsepower (as you can with a 40) but you are building gobs of _useable_ horsepower (which you cannot do with a 40 or their variants).<br><br>As far as spoolup times go, the B1 Kwik can spool with pretty much any HX40 variant on the market on higher powered trucks (except the Piers, it is definitely quicker) City drivability does not suffer with a KwikSpool and by about 10 PSI, the B1 has spooled and is moving air well.<br><br>Just another opinion, and in the interests of disclosure, we do sell the B1 turbos as well as an HX40 hybrid, so you can take my comments with whatever grain of salt you wish to ;D<br><br>Rod

 

[quote author=Push Rod link=board=7;threadid=9629;start=0#92666 date=1042697458]<br>(900 cfm+ with a KwikSpool)<br>[/quote]<br><br>Hey Rod,<br><br> Where did you get these numbers? I have not heard these before. What does the regular housing flow then? Thanks much!<br><br><br>J.R.

 

The engine is the deciding factor on how much air it will flow in cubic feet per minute or air volume. Turbos dont change the volume of air the engine can exchange during its cycles. But rather they instead change air density. Additional HP is made with air density. Volume does help if you can get it through proper port work, etc. <br><br>There are a few caveats to this as well. We all know a turbo is an exhaust restriction so it does change the volume of air the engine can pump or exchange when looking at the big picture of volume and efficiency. Turbos just work because the gain is higher from the additional air density than the loss from exhaust restriction.<br><br>A cubic foot of air is always a cubic foot air. Density is the variable. <br><br>Don~<br><br>

 

Don't let anyone tell you that the b1 is the end-all to egt problems. I have one and I can peg a 1800 degree pyro in about three seconds from a stop. It has not failed yet though, and it has been barked hundreds of times. [undecided]