jessmeistertc

Hi, just traded my big single for a h1c/3b twin kit. the h1c has a 16cm housing, and the 3b has a 26cm housing. I know the 3b is the good one, but is the 16cm housing on the h1c to big? I am also going to be putting in a ED spacer with one of their external wastegates. what do you all think of putting the HTT stage 4 compressor upgrade on the h1c? is it worth it to do it? I plan on going to a mach 7 or DDP comp injector. opinions there? want 600rwhp on #2 only and am gonna run a bit of nitrous too. Let me know what u think.

Jesse B

jessmeistertc

anybody. need you all

Mike Holmen

Nice twins set-up. You'll like it. Might want to oring the head prior to adding spray, but you should kill the head gasket first prior to removing it. Kinda like chicken or the egg issue.

jessmeistertc

Thanks Mike

Mike Holmen

Ya I just call it a six pack party. It will take six beer to fix. Its fun to rip into these old trucks once in awhile. Kinda like a poor mans home gym.

jessmeistertc

bump. anybody else?

TURBOLVR

talk to HTT, IMHO spraying an H1C is going to snap the shaft. Trucks going to smoke pretty good with the 16 housing and run hot on the low-end. I ran an HX40/3B set and it was good mid/top but a little slow/smokey down low. I dont agree with popping the gasket first as you may do damage. Also be sure to add a second/third crankcase breather to the engine as the boost from twins will be too much for the stock one and push oil past seals.

Mike Holmen

I had a HX-40/14 and BTH-3B/26 on a set of mach 6's. It did work pretty nice. There abit of tuning in the twins to get them to spool nice and flow air. I put in a garrett 3782R over a 3B/26, it performed way better and spool close to factory. If you could find a smaller turbine housing, it should help the spool-up. I would also improve the exhaust flow thru the turbine housing to help lite the 3B up. 3B are know to be abit sluggish, but once they lite up they pull hard. I'm currently putting a 3782R as a single on my truck. Gonna miss the twins set-up, made for a fun ride.

98.5Hotrod

Mike are you detuning your truck.

Mike Holmen

Just for a short time. For me almost stock is a set of dynomite 110rwhp sticks and a garrett 3782R. I'm just gonna finish it off with a meth/water kit. I want to tow my RV this summer. I'll build a new engine this fall or next winter, with twins with a 12v and the works. I just can't bring myself into buying another mortage payment just to haul my RV. I'm guessing that I will be in the mid to top 400's, and its still better power than a new truck, without the dodge warranty BS.

jessmeistertc

which housing should i get for the h1c? will that kill my power potential? and how would i improve the flow to lite the 3b? thanks

Mike Holmen

I would try the 16cm, as you already own it. I don't know much about the H1C, whats the size turbine disk? The compressor inducer and trim? What size is the wastegate flapper? What pressure is the wastegate set to open at? The earlier you open the wastegate, the sooner the 3B start to wake up. You need enough mass flow to start to spool the 3B. I've used 24 to 26psi on mine and it seems wake things up. My old HX-40 had a 38mm sized flapper. Its larger than typical. I had my 3788R modified to flow more air thru the wastegate and flow directly into the S475. The secert is too bypass the secondary turbo without dropping to much pressure or temperature (drop too much energy). That way you use all the energy on the primary, not generating heat, smoke, and pushing up drive pressure. After that you have to make sure that you don't have any boost leaks or exhaust leaks, as this will all effect spool-up and drive up the drive pressure. You could downsize the turbine housing, but will start to choke-up at the higher power levels and the wastegate will have to be enlarged to flow the exhaust. The typical turbine housing only dump pressure off one side of the turbine volute. You could drill a hole thru into the other side to improve flow. A die grinder is helpful to smooth out flow and make the flow more laminar. Worst case, you could always change the secondary turbo out as you tweak stuff.

TURBOLVR

smoothing/porting and port matching also help spool/flow just be careful not to go too far and make thin spots or so big as to affect velocity. Also consider ceramic coatings to keep heat energy where you want it and prevent it from transferring to things that should be kept cool. hitting 600hp on #2 isnt that hard for twins of this size but on a DD/tow set-up you need to keep efficiency in mind and not just top end. I believe banks made a 14 housing for that turbo if you end up needing one.

jessmeistertc

i see that gillett diesel sells different ex. housings for a couple hundred bucks. would a 12 or 14cm housing be that much better than what i have. pros and cons? thanks

TURBOLVR

the smaller housings will speed spooling at the cost of top end flow. if you go to a 12 get an external gate too. thats what I would do, if youre gonna spend the money, the 12 has the best spool and the E-gate will still allow full top end power. If you can, keep the housing/volutes divided, that will help spool, then the stock gate will vent @ say 20psi and the E-gate can open @ like 40psi or whenever drive pressure starts to spike.