I wrote this up real quick for someone, so I figured i'd post it for the search archives for people needing help on the install through the top of the pump.


Before I could feel mine defuel at 2100, now it wants to pull into 3200rpm, it's a great mod, it really changes how ur truck pulls from 1250rpm+. So here's how to do it from the top.

The way I did it was through the top of the pump. Take the AFC off, just like u would to get to the fuel plate. Then take the fuel plate out. Look into the pump, you most likely won't see either Gsk spring set, so u'll have to turn the engine over with a 15mm socket on the damper bolts until the first spring set shows up ( it takes quit a bit of barring the engine between each spring set, but go slow so u don't miss one and have to bar it again to find it). Rotate the engine in small amounts until u get the first set inline with the opening ur looking through so u can pull the springs up and out. What I did to stop anything from falling in the pump was stuff a paper towel down in the pump surrounding the gsk spring perch. It was a good back up, but I didn't drop anything. Just take ur time with a thin pencil magnet type of thing.

There will be a small retainer nut that holds the springs and washer down. It screws onto a stud in the center, so u have to either cut a notch in the center of a flathead screwdriver so u can turn the nut and clear the stud, or u can try to turn the nut on either side of the stud until it clears the stud then u can just unscrew it normally.

I didn't use a caliper to measure the stock position of the nut on the stud, I just counted the number of turns it took to take the nut off. Each of mine took about 6-1/2 full turns to come off, which equals 26 clicks as people say. Because u'll feel it click every 1/4 turn. But it stopped clicking after a couple turns so I just counted the number of turns it took. It's important because ur idle will be to high or to low if u don't put the nut on the right amount of turns. Mine idled at 1100rpm's when I got done, So i Just went back in and loosened both the nuts 2 clicks (1/2 a turn) and it idled right at 775.

Once u feel the nut about to come off the stud, put ur pencil magnet on the nut and then finish loosening it. With the screwdriver, hold down the big retainer washer so it doesn't come off and then pull the nut up and out of the pump. Next put ur magnet on the big retainer washer and slowly lift it out while holding the springs that are under it down with the screwdriver just so they don't come out with it. The washer was the hardest part to get in and out since it's kind of wide, but I just pulled it up near the top of the pump then grabbed it with a pair of needle nose pliers. I also had a flashlight in my teeth the whole time so I could see.

Next put the magnet on the center spring(smallest one) and slowly lift it out while holding the two outer springs down with the screwdriver. Repeat for the second spring, and pull that one out. Leave the big outside spring in place. Next put ur magenet down in between the big spring and the center stud and pickup the shims at the bottom (thin little washers), Mine had 3, but some have 2 or even 1. Then go back with the magnet and get the seat at the bottom (ur Gsk kit should have come with a new seat so u know what it looks like) Once u have the nut, the retainer washer, the 2 inner springs, the shims, and the seat out, ur ready to start puting ur GSK kit in.

What I did to make it easy was put each piece of the kit one at a time on my magnet, then put the magnet so it touched the stud and just slid each piece down into place so the magnet acted as a guide wire. First put the new seat into the bottom, next put the middle size spring in, then put the small spring in. Now ur almost done, take the big retainer washer and hold it with some needle nose pliers and slowly lower it into the pump, once it's down past the top of the pump touch ur magnet to it and let go with the pliers and then move the washer into place on top of the springs and onto the stud. The stud and washer have fit only in once direction so just look at the hole in it and look at the stud to figure out what direction it needs to go on.

Now do the method with the last nut like before of puting the item through the magnet then puting the magnet down onto the stud and sliding the nut down into place. Take ur time getting the nut to thread on straight, and make sure u start right away counting the amount of turns it takes, and tighten it to the same number of turns it took to take it out.

Next take the paper towel out of the pump!

Ur done with the first one, now u have to repeat the process for the second GSK set, so bar the engine over about 360 degree's or alittle less I think, just watch the pump until u see the next GSK show up. THe second one will go alot faster since ur more comfortable. Put a paper towel back in and repeat the process, and remember to take the paper towel out. It should take you about 1 hour, to 1-1/2 hours.

 

Its a lot easier through the side...

 

Through the side agreed. You would almost have to try to drop something into the pump. I used a feeler gauge to measure stud protrusion.

 

I just thought it was pretty easy through the top, and u have alot more visibilty and access IMO. The side u have to hunch down and try to get past all the throttle linkage and stuff. To each there own though, just thought somebody could use that.

 

I agree with you
I have done it both ways and prefer going at it from the top.
In the words of Piers "GO STRAIGHT DOWN ITS THROAT" LOL

 

Awesome, thanks!!

 

I did mine from the top also, didn't think it was hard at all. Looks like it would be a pita to see anything from the side.

 

thats what I felt like to ^. the side might be easier since the springs are closer to the opening, but that side opening is in a real awkward position down behind everything